Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Cantabrigian]



Drapers 11oz. glen check suiting:

Does it have some sort of windowpane over the glen check. Someonetimes it looks like a red overcheck sometimes not. Dont know if my eyes are playing tricks on me.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Nope, no overcheck.

 

[Cantabrigian]



I am abit confused to how they are suitings because of how rough they look.... is it because of the microcheck that makes it a suiting cloth?

While they look rough-ish that's really only on a closeup view under good light. And even then only compared to a perfectly smooth worsted. Compare a fresco to a genuine tweed, for example. And these are a little too heavy / biznaz-y for a summer sportscoat. Another dead giveaway is that you have a pinwidth / one thread wide pattern. Some tweeds have fairly thin checks-- Porter & Harding Hartwist for example--

But those tend to be in very tweedy colors. Finally, you're talking about the mosy businessy / suity possible colors.

 

[CrimsonSox]

The back of the jacket -- one of the hardest areas to tailor, and the part that RTW often misses -- is smooth and has a bespoke, sculpted shape. All you need is a soporific tie.

 

[naviC]

While they look rough-ish that's really only on a closeup view under good light. And even then only compared to a perfectly smooth worsted.

Compare a fresco to a genuine tweed, for example. And these are a little too heavy / biznaz-y for a summer sportscoat.


Another dead giveaway is that you have a pinwidth / one thread wide pattern. Some tweeds have fairly thin checks--

Porter & Harding Hartwist for example--

But those tend to be in very tweedy colors.


Finally, you're talking about the mosy businessy / suity possible colors.

Thanks for that, I would need to have chat with my tailor to understand more about my cloth selections..

 

[gopherblue]



An update: we've hit a bit over 60m for the brown Fresco! So it looks like it'll likely get run.

I'm in touch with HFW right now to get details, and to work with them on producing a swatch. The next steps are: 1) get a hard price quote (I won't be taking any profit, so it'll just be whatever they charge), 2) get info on production time, 3) get a swatch produced, and finally 4) get hard commitments.

Ideally, I'd like to have people pay HFW for their lengths before the fabric is actually produced, but will be in touch with people about that. Since I'm not taking any profit, I don't want to be stuck with an extra 3 or 5m if someone pulls out. But I'm happy to do what's best for everyone involved.

I'm definitely interested in a jacket-length (is 2.5 meters enough for a 6'1", 44L fella?), assuming it is the same weight as the 518 and 520 frescos, and the color is closer to 518 than the Slewfoot tobacco (nothing against that beautiful fabric, but it is too light/too reddish for what I want).

 

[lordsuperb]

Just commissioned a suit from the Drapers flannel book. Should be interesting how it turns out.

 

[mactire]

Great to see there is a lot of interest. I am coordinating with fox regarding the replication of shade D and will be posting out the reference swatch to them shortly. Once they produce their iteration, we will make a final decision on the cloth and take an official count of everyone's commitments.

BTW if you're interested in small runs of woollen cloth, Marling and Evans weave from 40m AFAIK. But if you've an agreement with Fox there's little point changing horses mid-race.

I have a question for you cloth-aficionados: are tweed or flannel cloths (all wool) generally the same price as "normal" worsted cloths or more?

All other things being equal you would expect to pay about 2x~3x for cloth woven from woollen-spun yarn i.e. tweed & flannel. This is down to a number of factors woollen spun yarn is made in smaller batches due to it being less popular, it is tricky to make, adding neps to yarn [like in a Donegal] is time-consuming as well. When it comes to weaving the looms must be run at much lower speeds than those weaving worsteds, i.e. 160~200 picks per minute compared to 400+ on modern looms weaving a worsted. More breaks means more mending etc.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Just commissioned a suit from the Drapers flannel book. Should be interesting how it turns out.

If it's their 11oz. stuff, I fear for you.

Regardless of the mill, I have had multiple lightweight flannels from Fox to Draper's perform poorly over time. I'm sticking with 14oz.+ flannels from here on out.

 

[lordsuperb]



If it's their 11oz. stuff, I fear for you.

Regardless of the mill, I have had multiple lightweight flannels from Fox to Draper's perform poorly over time. I'm sticking with 14oz.+ flannels from here on out.

Can you elaborate a little further?

Thanks

 

[Fishball]

My new found, Dormeuil Sportex

 

[Simon A]

Great find Fishball, what a riot of colour up close but so subtle from distance. A little like the old Reid and Taylor country twist suitings. I hope it makes up well for you.

 

[Fishball]

Yes, it look pretty nice from a distance. I bought 2 yd for a sportcoat. It cost less than USD90. Is the price good?

 

[add911_11]



My new found, Dormeuil Sportex

Well done master fishball!

Is it new stock or old stock?

 

[aton]



Yes, it look pretty nice from a distance. I bought 2 yd for a sportcoat. It cost less than USD90. Is the price good?

What a bargain! But cmt cost could be us$900 ?