Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Cantabrigian]



My personal experience is you might need to let out the upper back a slight bit. This will ease the divots but will make the back less clean. Not a perfect solution but it is too late to do some big surgery.

The shoulders are too narrow. You can see very clearly where the shoulders end (since they're so built up) and then his deltoids extend a ways beyond there.

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess he's not a competitive bodybuilder so that could pretty easily be solved by a bit more (enough?) room in the shoulders.

That would, like you said, likely mean more cloth across the shoulder blades. It won't look as clean but I imagine it'll be more comfortable to move / use his arms.

 

[add911_11]



shorten/lower the crown of the sleeve

I guess that will decrease the rope and change the look of it?

Also I understand it is desirable to show arms in english and concave shoulder.

Is there anyone here who has try my shoulder and able to give some feedback?

 

[Renault78law]



add911_11 - I have encountered the same problem, and the solution is to increase the amount of fabric across the deltoid, so that it drapes smoothly rather than be stretched tight. Armhole remains the same size, and don't mess around with the back - it won't fix the problem but might create new ones. Once that is corrected, the shoulders won't look extended (in fact, narrowing them would only make the problem worse).

This, IME.

 

[naviC]

What do you guys think of these two for odd jackets? Even tho huddersfield says the 0569 is mid-grey, it almost has a blue tint in natural light. Am thinking the 0571 looks classic but I am thinking it may be too close to suiting cloth.

Was also considering kid mohair, but does the sheen make it too awkward to wear in daylight?

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

Those are both def suitings - I would be hesitant to get those as sportcoats.

 

[P-K-L]



Those are both def suitings - I would be hesitant to get those as sportcoats.

+1 - got the upper one as a suit, my dad got the blue fresco made up.

 

[archibaldleach]



Those are both def suitings - I would be hesitant to get those as sportcoats.

+1.

 

[Stugotes]

I have a question for you cloth-aficionados: are tweed or flannel cloths (all wool) generally the same price as "normal" worsted cloths or more?

 

[Slickman]

In my experience, prices seem to depend on the mill/merchant and don't necessarily coordinate with quality. HLesser & Smiths sell really top quality worsteds at different weights anywhere close to 90 pounds/meter while minnis classic worsted sell for around 50 pounds/meter. Fox sells flannels at around 90 pounds/meter while minnis sells at around 70 pounds/meter, although some would argue they are both excellent cloths. Is the fox worth 20 pounds/meter more in quality, I can't say that it is, but people will pay it because they have a track record of making great woolen flannels. I would only buy stuff direct if you can get a serious discount that your tailor cannot, or if its something rare/unattainable by your tailor. But its definitely better not to skimp out of fabrics in bespoke when the cost will only be a few hundred more in the end since you're already spending at least $1500-2000+ on labor to make the garment

 

[Stugotes]

Thanks for the info!

(I'm asking to understand what dimensions a tailor means when he says "prices start from x.000, depending on the cloth". Yes, I could ask him for specific cloths and forms of a suit (2pc, 3pc) but I'd like to get an idea in general.)

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Drapers 11oz. glen check suiting:

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Add - that's a nice suit, though I would have the tailor temper the shoulders a bit.

That tie is the ugliest thing I have ever seen.

 

[TheTukker]

Not the ugliest I have ever seen, but it comes close.

 

[naviC]

Those are both def suitings - I would be hesitant to get those as sportcoats.

I am abit confused to how they are suitings because of how rough they look.... is it because of the microcheck that makes it a suiting cloth?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Hard to explain (it's a confluence of the pattern, weave, color etc.), but those are most certainly suitings.

Like pornography, you know it when you see it.