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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. NorCal_1

    NorCal_1 Senior member

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    ^ how many fittings did you do, Cantabrigian? was it buckling like this then at those fittings and nobody caught it?

    it appears like you may have lost girth/weight?
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2014
  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I have a lousy memory but I believe it was really only one fitting. That was a basted fitting but what they had produced up to that point was horrible - Mariano seemed quite displeased.

    I tried it on again finished but that was just a formality really.


    I imagine my waistsize is within half an inch of what it was then. If anything I'm on the wrong side of that half inch today.
     
  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Like I said, these are schoolboy errors.

    So I guess I might actually be on the side of wanting a cutter at fittings after all.
     
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    FWIW, I spoke to Mahon about this. His opinion is that most of the time, a fitter can take the necessary notes and translate them to a cutter. Couple that with a few photos, video, or whatever. It's when there are more serious problems that things get difficult. By serious I mean "non-standard." For those times, he suggested that it's helpful to have your cutter (not just any cutter) present at your fittings.
     
  5. lysandar

    lysandar Senior member

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    Don't mean to poop on your stuff, but I'd have returned it and asked for a refund.
     
  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I don't think you would have.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I don't see what's that objectionable about Cantabrigans Rubinacci particularly given the vagaries of photography and perspective. For example, a number of the ripples in the chest on the rooftop picture are not there on the window shade picture. So I'm not sure which picture to believe. OTOH I think there's more front drape than I would personally like. Tough to know for sure without seeing it IRL.
     
  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    [fact]

    No such thing as too much drape.

    [/fact]
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. JL724

    JL724 Senior member

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    Not very impressed with the fit of the jacket. Don't mean to be negative, but I would expect much more from Rubi. I think you could get a better fit OTR.
     
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I agree, I don't think Canta's jacket looks as good as the others (sorry, Canta).

    That said, all those jackets look very different to me. They look like they're in the same family, but they still also look very different.

    This might be photography, but I think it's just more the nature of handmade, custom clothing. It's very hard to get something to look exactly like something else. Easier if you're working off the same person's pattern, but harder if you're trying to replicate the same "look" on another person. Well, at least to the degree that we're expecting here.

    Which is why it's probably a bad idea to go into a project thinking that it's going to turn out on you the same way it's turned out on someone else. IMO, when we think of tailors as having a certain "house style," that means something very loose. It doesn't mean that they create the same look on every client.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2014
  11. Winot

    Winot Senior member

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    I don't think I've ever had two suits that have exactly the same cut from the 3 houses I use regularly. And that's with the same cutter each time in each. It's the nature of bespoke I think.
     
  12. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Don't be sorry - this discussion started because I said I thought they did a poor job.

    Foo's is the only one that I'd say looks unrelated to the others. I understand why they'd do it but I just don't like a buttoning point that high.
     
  13. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    G Bruce Boyer writes an interesting chapter in the Elegance in the Age of Crisis book regarding how the drape look was exaggerated in America to become the zoot suit.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    He wrote that same chapter in one of his other books too. I forget if it was Elegance or another one.

    Zoot requires a very extended shoulder and I think that + a normal amount of drape is the problem moreseo than the amount of drape. I mean practically speaking, there a limit to how much cloth you can work in there.

    At any rate I was being facetious but I do generally think that most guys who aren't straight up obese or <5' 5" look better with a bit of drape.
     
  15. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    I agree with this.
     
  16. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    My recollection is a bit foggy, but I believe Foo made a lot of specific requests on that particular jacket. In fact that may be his first commission, which was a one button set up that he later had recut or something. So that particular jacket may be more a reflection of his requests than any house stylings, and hence might explain why it looks so different from the others.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    I wonder if he learnt the lesson of not over directing the tailor before or after that commission.
     
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cantabrigian, would be interesting to see a jacket of yours that has, in your opinion, your preferred amount of drape and shoulder line to compare with your Rubi. Comparing the cut of one tailor on different clients is apples and oranges. Body type contributes to the execution of a look. Comparing multiple tailors work on one body is more telling.
     
  19. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    Does anyone know if Lovat Mill offers a fresco or panama that's neither the Bard (an 11 oz. Frescoesque cloth) nor the Alden/LLCC Piuma?
     
  20. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Lovat also did the LL Brisa which is supposed to be a fresco. I like fresco and dislike Brisa but they are both open weaves.
     

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