Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[mactire]

Attempting to revive a cloth project from last year, looking to do a tobacco shade of brown in 17oz flannel, have been in talks with minnis and fox and they say it is quite doable. Still waiting on a cloth sample from each, but it seems promising, hopefully it can be done without a problem this time around. If anyone is interested, the minimum is 60m with minnis and comes out to around 35 pounds/m, which is very reasonable. Still waiting on word from fox about their minimum and price, will keep those interested in the loop.

Some other woollen weavers will make at 30m and 40m as well.

 

[sprout2]



VBC? Doubtful. They're huge and make cloth for others.

Thanks. I have a pair of VBC pants from Howard Yount in a particular shade I wanted to duplicate.

 

[terrorsquad]

Well if its the Perennial VBC, its only around USD30 plus a meter if im not mistaken;bought a few lengths for working trousers.

 

[sprout2]

But only available to the trade, yes?

 

[XFactor]

Well if its the Perennial VBC, its only around USD30 plus a meter if im not mistaken;bought a few lengths for working trousers.

How and where can I find decent SUIT FABRIC that sells for something like that? What would be decent 100% Worsted Wool fabric around 30 GBP (little less or more).

Ideally I'd like to go for J J Minnis Fresco (from all the Summer suit fabric knowledge I've read). But they are higher priced at 60+ GBP. So, before I go there, I'd like to TRY OUT these tailors and see how they do.. Once I can rely on the tailor and depend on them and KNOW my FIT better, I'll go for the Fresco and more.

So any thoughts on the following (if the question above was too wide):
- 100% Worsted Wool
- Business / Formal (From my reading a Solids based non patterned suit is always safer, more formal, interview friendly and can go with more shirts etc than certain patterns/ pin strips etc. - So suggest the conservative variety)
- Charcoal/ Dark or Mid Gray - Navy (I already have a RTW navy so prefer the given shade)

So using the above, please point me (link if possible) to SPECIFIC fabrics from specific mill/ merchant/ marketer that is
- Good Value for Money at the lower end of Good worsted fabrics.

I do not need this first tailor made suit to be fancy. Should work for interviews and client meetings (as formal as possible).

 

[Concordia]

Your chosen tailor may have a special on some in-house fabric. Might be dreary, orphaned stuff, but at least you'll then be negotiating the price of the finished good, not the components. Otherwise, a cheaper fabric might not save you a lot. Very few of the Savile Row crowd, for example, price lower for using fabric other than standard Lesser.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Concordia, if you would compromise on one of those (handcraft or cloth) which would you choose? Assuming that you do get what you pay for.

 

[Concordia]

You're doing R&D on a tailor, right? So do what it takes to find the best tailor you're likely to be able to afford. I say that as someone who hates wearing clothes that aren't cut right. Cloth is a nice bonus, but if it doesn't fit or feel right, I won't wear it-- and that is a very expensive problem.

 

[Slewfoot]

You're doing R&D on a tailor, right? So do what it takes to find the best tailor you're likely to be able to afford. I say that as someone who hates wearing clothes that aren't cut right. Cloth is a nice bonus, but if it doesn't fit or feel right, I won't wear it-- and that is a very expensive problem.

Wise words...the two really do go hand in hand.

 

[Victor Elfo]

I'm sorry I don't know what "R&D" stands for. However, if I understood your point correctly, you're saying that fit is more important, but once you pay big money for a suit you better spend some more with a good cloth as well, right? If so, I share your opinion.

 

[sugarbutch]

R&D: research and development

I think his point is that he wants to minimize expense for a first commission with an unproven tailor, but if the first suit turns out well, he'll invest more in the fabric for future commissions.

 

[Victor Elfo]

I see, thanks, SB. I'm not sure if that's his point, but that's a good insight as well. Expenses are always a concern, at least for those who are not graced by the capitalism, but I'd also be concerned to give a rare cloth to a new tailor, as loosing it would cost me more than its nominal value, that's why many advise to make a first purchase in standard cloths (hopsack, for example).
I'm not doing R&D on a tailor at the moment, Concordia. Fortunately, I've established a good relationship with my tailor and I'm more than willing to give him expensive (for my own standards) and rare cloths.

 

[Concordia]



I'm not doing R&D on a tailor at the moment, Concordia. Fortunately, I've established a good relationship with my tailor and I'm more than willing to give him expensive (for my own standards) and rare cloths.

I'm sorry-- I mistakenly thought you were XFactor when I replied.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Don't worry, the conversation was insightful and pleasant.

 

[Journeyman]



How and where can I find decent SUIT FABRIC that sells for something like that? What would be decent 100% Worsted Wool fabric around 30 GBP (little less or more).


Ideally I'd like to go for J J Minnis Fresco (from all the Summer suit fabric knowledge I've read). But they are higher priced at 60+ GBP. So, before I go there, I'd like to TRY OUT these tailors and see how they do.. Once I can rely on the tailor and depend on them and KNOW my FIT better, I'll go for the Fresco and more. 

There are quite a few sellers on eBay who are reputable and who sell lengths of English cloth, so you could keep an eye out there.

Alternatively, have a look at the Huddersfield Cloth website (huddersfieldcloth.com) and sign up for their "cloth offer" e-mails, where they sell lengths of cloth for GBP20 per metre.

Some of the cloths in the cloth offer e-mails are awful, but some are fantastic - I picked up some classic grey nailhead cloth a month or two back that I'm having made up into a suit. You can see some of the "cloth offer" specials on their Facebook page here:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Huddersfield-Cloth/184997944876377?sk=photos_stream

Huddersfield Cloth are not weavers - they are merchants or re-sellers (so are not to be confused with Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, for example).