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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Will they be making their signature padded shoulders for it, or will the cloth hold up by itself?
     
  2. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^I'm not certain. I tried the coat on and didn't notice anything unusual (other than I felt like I had an elephant on my back) so I think it was likely their standard padding in the shoulders, which is fairly mild compared to other row tailors that I've used.
     
  3. lysandar

    lysandar Senior member

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    Came across some vintage suitings with "Lordson Selection" and "Blazon 108000" on the selvedge. Does anyone have more info on what mills/merchants these are from?

    My best guesses are that the first is possibly a French textile, whilst the latter could be vintage Drapers.
     
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who else have you used? I've heard from some others that Huntsman is on the built-up end of the scale.
     
  5. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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  6. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not really. About the same as Dege, but they do cut to level the shoulder line which means a little padding, for me, at the end of the shoulders. But it is very little and, however it is done, the effect seems to be mostly achieved through cutting.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They are known for using a very hard chest piece and canvas, though. Not that I own one or ever have.
     
  8. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Kilgour did turn out a few in that direction. John McCabe was nominally in charge of my stuff there, and it was still a fair bit different from his earlier work at Dege. Gotta keep up the house style, etc. Strangely enough, the first bespoke number I got from Kilgour (1997), while obviously structured, didn't seem too much so. The most obvious for me were the Shanghai specials that I moved to later on. I assumed there was something about that construction that was a little different from London, but perhaps there was just a company-wide shift. Or maybe my body became less tolerant.

    Anyway, now that he's setting his own style at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, he's dialed back the shoulders a bit although they still look very crisp, and do have noticeable padding. I've got a Harris tweed in the works there now-- we'll see if there's an aesthetic collision on that front.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  9. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^Definitely agree on the chest piece. It is hard and also swelled out like a shell. Think of a french bulldog with a slightly puffed out chest. That plus the roped shoulder give the coat quite a bit of structure. I think that Manton is correct that the canvas is particularly hard although I think that it tends to soften and shape to the body over time as my jackets tend to feel better and better with wear and the older they are the more I like them. It is good stuff for me and I like it but it is certainly distinctive in a lot of ways and if you like wearing neapolitan tailoring I think it might feel very funny.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  10. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I would love to see pics and hear about your experience in this thread or another one. I used Kilgour when they were going through a pretty difficult period and I was really dissappointed in what I got, but I always assumed that at some point they would turn it around and get back to what they are known for.
     
  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Kilgour and Dege had something of the swelled chest, too. It was easy to say that they cut a clean chest, but there was, in fact, oodles of drape for holding your checkbooks, etc. You just couldnt't see any ripples as you can on many A&S jackets.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That is a good description of The Dege chest. Huntsman's is slightly less so. At the same time, Dege shoulder's are a little tighter (less extended) and no effort is made to moderate the slope.
     
  13. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    FWIW, the 32oz. coating that Huntsman is trying to sell to us Yanks is a bit of an infamous joke around SR. Several tailors have bought that very same fabric before re-selling to a different tailor. Too heavy, tailors poorly, and is rumored to shrink upon the first dry-cleaning.

    Buyer beware.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  14. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tell us more. They've made it up already, so is it a full bolt that is circulating. How do people know about the dry cleaning? Have a bunch been made already? Or by same fabric, do you mean same mill, not literally from the same piece? Do you know who makes it and how old it is?
     
  15. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^It was made by Islay Woolen Mill in Scotland, the same place the produces many of the Huntsman tweeds. It is a new bolt that was produced for Huntsman. Patrick Murphy appears to be pleased with it and is handing out small squares (I took one with me and that is what I have in my photo). I'm not sure I understand the comment about shrinkage. The fabric is wool, so I'm not sure why it would be more prone to shrinkage than other wool, but I'm certainly not an expert. If you are implying that there is something else in the fabric, I'd be surprised. I'd be surprised if Patrick is trying to pull one over on his US customers. We make up the majority of Huntsman's revenue and Patrick has been doing this for a long time. He is well respected. I assume johnny allen is back in London next week. I'll ask him to send a picture of the coat.
     
    2 people like this.
  16. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    There's a member on here who has a method for testing swatches like this.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014
  17. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^I don't know that we want to start with swatch testing members around here. Who knows what might turn up.
     
  18. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Drapers is a distributor, not a manufacturer. They do have a book called Blazon. The fabric in that book is made by Vitale Barberis Canonico, and it is Super 140s. I don't believe that it is a particularly vintage book, but I may be wrong. I don't have any specific experience with it, but Drapers stuff is generally pretty good. Some people seem to think less of VBC stuff, but they make some pretty good fabric for Drapers.
     
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    You guys should start a Savile Row Thread. I think it'll be hear everyone's experiences.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I've actually thought about starting a "general bespoke clothing chat thread," as there doesn't seem to be anything like that at the moment. The current "CM General Chat Thread" doesn't get much activity, however, so I'm not sure if one for bespoke clothing would be any more successful.

    That said, there have been a number of times when I wanted to chat about something related to bespoke, but it wasn't about a specific tailor or about cloth, so I wasn't sure where to put it. Don't know if anyone else has had that experience.
     
    2 people like this.

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