Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aravenel]

Slew, that is a gorgeous jacket and a gorgeous fabric.

21oz is a monster. Is it too warm to wear frequently?

 

[Slewfoot]

It's warm if there's a drop of humidity. On crisp Fall days it seems quite nice. I got it half lined to allow for a bit of breathing as the fabric is a bit porous surprisingly enough. I imagine it's mid-September - early-April only which is fine with me.

 

[aravenel]

Glad it breathes well. Nothing wrong with a dedicated winter jacket. And it's a beautiful one for sure.

 

[Slewfoot]

Thanks and glad you like it!

 

[Concordia]

One of Steed's nicest-looking 3-button jackets.

Still, it looks like every one of the front buttons is a little off. Draw a line from the buttonhole left, and they look misaligned. Of course, they might each have a huge long shank to make buttoning even possible. You'll know more once you've broken everything in.

 

[Slewfoot]

Yes, the buttons are actually close to 1/2 inch below where they should be as my dropped shoulder just wasn't taken into account here. I mentioned that on the A&S thread, but not here. Might have something to do with the rippling, but more so the alignment of the pattern. Will just get a local tailor to fix it here.

 

[forex]

Check out the fabrics I am moving: http://www.styleforum.net/t/333840/fabrics-minnis-fresco-flannel-sharkskin-tweeds-etc

PM if you are interested!

 

[Slickman]

Funding some dark grey flannel odd trousers, thinking about this style, AMBROSI DON'T SHOOT ME, what do you think? I want to differentiate it from what can easily look like orphaned suit pants.

 

[mimo]

All things equal, ventless DBs are a bit more formal and elegantly shaped. I've done that for DJs and a dark grey HB suit that I wear in the evenings.

Yes, I take your point. I think with the ventless idea I was harking back to a cotton jacket I had when I was very young, but that was a sloppy, shapeless, thing and this won't be. Thank you for the sanity check - normal vents, yes.

​

Have you considered what trouser colors to wear with this? Might be more difficult than you think. I don't get a good feeling about using tropical weight, light grey worsted for a DB with patch pockets. No vents won't make it more casual. I haven't seen the cloth but why not make a trouser from this cloth instead of a jacket

This might sound petty, but I think I'll get a better lifespan out of a jacket than trousers (although that said, I could probably squeeze two pairs out of this length). As for combining it, you're right it's a bit of a legendary SF style mantrap: I'm thinking daytime/business casual would be dark navy trousers (another mantrap!), even darker olives or browns with the right shoes. But also coloured chinos and jeans as a no tie casual in the evening. Anyway, it's certainly not as obvious and easy as navy blazer, but I think I can find a home for it.

Is there anything else I should be wary of when making a jacket from a lighter cloth? I know I've asked this before, but any idiot-1.1 observations would be welcome. Anyway, I'll be sure to post the results for your critique!

Not sure what's going on with the rippling buttoning point as that's not really noticeable in real life although might partly be due to the recent overseas shipment. The coat is not tight by any means.

I have a very heavy tweed that's not a million miles from that. It has turnback cuffs that I've noticed sag a bit under their own weight. I need to remake it anyway (lost a lot of weight) and will probably either remove them or tack them back as "gauntlet" cuffs instead. Anyway, based on that experience, I'd say that the problem might just be that the cloth is so heavy: it doesn't look like it's pulling, or even that it's too loose in general across the chest. It just looks like it's folding under the weight of the lapels. At over a pound and a quarter a yard, I guess it's inevitable, even with a fairly stiff canvas.

My guess is that, SF-approved or not, a "hard three" might have to be the way forward with something this substantial, as it was in days of old. I wear my threes with the top button open too, in true modern i-gent style, but they are linen or light wool. I think with a tweed three you might have to go back to grandad-chic and fasten that top. Personally, I think it would suit the look anyway. Which, incidentally, I like very much. Congratulations.

 

[TRINI]



Funding some dark grey flannel odd trousers, thinking about this style, AMBROSI DON'T SHOOT ME, what do you think? I want to differentiate it from what can easily look like orphaned suit pants.

Not a fan of those pockets. If you really want to differentiate from suit pants, why not throw a flapped back pocket on there.

Speaking of odd grey trousers, thoughts on maybe a nice gray or salt & pepper donegal tweed?

My only fear is if i go that route, I'll be tempted to get the matching jacket made up and that's nowhere in my plans.

 

[Concordia]



Funding some dark grey flannel odd trousers, thinking about this style, AMBROSI DON'T SHOOT ME, what do you think? I want to differentiate it from what can easily look like orphaned suit pants.

That style will certainly do that for you. But is it really necessary? Even if you don't see the cost of wearing those trousers, I'm not sure why there's a benefit to not looking suit-like.

 

[RogerC]

Gray flannel trousers never look like orphaned suit trousers.

 

[bourbonbasted]



But is it really necessary?

This. I wear suit pants as separates on occasion and it has never occurred to me this would be improper or look off. Suit jacket as a separate I can see, but pants? Think we might be over-thinking this a bit....

 

[Manton]

So, yesterday I wore one of the first coats I ever got that really seemed to have the half moon/horse shoe problem. The jacket is now, I believe, five years old. Well the dent is gone. I have no idea why.

 

[TRINI]



So, yesterday I wore one of the first coats I ever got that really seemed to have the half moon/horse shoe problem. The jacket is now, I believe, five years old. Well the dent is gone. I have no idea why.

How's your A&S Shetland going? Did extended wear ever resolve the issue?