Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jrd617]

Does anyone know what fabric this was? I saved this pic from awhile ago. (Kudos to the OP, whoever it was)

Would it make for a good odd jacket fabric for a medium framed person? (41R) I notice that the scale of the herringbone is big

Also, any general recommendations for a good brown herringbone fabric?

 

[Renton]

I'm pretty sure that's a picture from pocketsquareguy during a NSM visit.

 

[jrd617]



I'm pretty sure that's a picture from pocketsquareguy during a NSM visit.

Good eyes! That rings a bell now.

PSG, did you end up making this as a sportcoat?

 

[Cantabrigian]



Good eyes! That rings a bell now.

PSG, did you end up making this as a sportcoat?

I believe he did
http://www.styleforum.net/t/207054/my-visit-to-napoli-mina-napoli-su-misura/2160_60#post_5912842

 

[Journeyman]

I'm sorry for asking what is probably a very obvious question, but although I've commissioned a few suits and jackets, I've always used the tailor's own cloth.

However, I'm thinking of sourcing some cloth myself, and getting my tailor to make it up into a suit for me (yes, he is happy to do CMT commissions).

The problem is that I'm not sure exactly how much cloth I will need, so I was hoping that someone could advise me.

I typically take a size 44 suit, and I have a 38 waist. I'm 6 feet tall (or just over 180cm).

I'd like to know how much cloth I would need for:

1) A two piece suit with normal (welted and flapped, no patches) pockets in a plain cloth (so no pattern matching to worry about);

2) An odd jacket in a PoW check with patch pockets (so extra cloth needed for patch pockets and pattern matching); and

3) A pair of odd trousers in a plain cloth with side adjusters and 2" cuffs. I've got a 38" waist and a 30" inseam.


I'm guessing that I'd probably need 4m of cloth for the first option, 2.5 to 3m of cloth for the second option and 1.5m of cloth for the third option, but obviously I'd like to be sure before ordering cloth!

If anyone could kindly advise, I'd be most appreciative.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Ask your tailor, he'll tell you how much you need.

 

[Pliny]

Hi Journeyman - answer depends on the width, but if the cloth is a standard 5 ft /156 cm width I have been advised to get
2m for a jacket and 1.5 m for trousers. I'm a 40 Reg, so I'd guess 4m for your size for a 2 piece. hope that's of some use

 

[Gruto]



1) A two piece suit with normal (welted and flapped, no patches) pockets in a plain cloth (so no pattern matching to worry about);

2) An odd jacket in a PoW check with patch pockets (so extra cloth needed for patch pockets and pattern matching); and

3) A pair of odd trousers in a plain cloth with side adjusters and 2" cuffs. I've got a 38" waist and a 30" inseam.


I'm guessing that I'd probably need 4m of cloth for the first option, 2.5 to 3m of cloth for the second option and 1.5m of cloth for the third option, but obviously I'd like to be sure before ordering cloth!

If anyone could kindly advise, I'd be most appreciative.

As Pliny says, it depends on the tailor. That said, based on personal experience,

1) 3.20 or 3.30 m should be plenty for 2-piece suit, even for a tall 6.5 person.

2) 2 m should be enough for a jacket, even for a tall person. Again, some tailors like a little more cloth to play around with.

3) 1.5 m should be enough for trousers with your size.

 

[marcodalondra]



I'm sorry for asking what is probably a very obvious question, but although I've commissioned a few suits and jackets, I've always used the tailor's own cloth.

However, I'm thinking of sourcing some cloth myself, and getting my tailor to make it up into a suit for me (yes, he is happy to do CMT commissions).

The problem is that I'm not sure exactly how much cloth I will need, so I was hoping that someone could advise me.

I typically take a size 44 suit, and I have a 38 waist. I'm 6 feet tall (or just over 180cm).

I'd like to know how much cloth I would need for:

1) A two piece suit with normal (welted and flapped, no patches) pockets in a plain cloth (so no pattern matching to worry about);

2) An odd jacket in a PoW check with patch pockets (so extra cloth needed for patch pockets and pattern matching); and

3) A pair of odd trousers in a plain cloth with side adjusters and 2" cuffs. I've got a 38" waist and a 30" inseam.


I'm guessing that I'd probably need 4m of cloth for the first option, 2.5 to 3m of cloth for the second option and 1.5m of cloth for the third option, but obviously I'd like to be sure before ordering cloth!

If anyone could kindly advise, I'd be most appreciative.

I am just over 6 feet myself, close to a 41-42 jacket UK and 36 waist.
I buy 3.4m for a 2 pieces, 1.8 for a jacket, 1.6m for trousers ( I have thick/sporty thighs and for a bold pattern-tartan-was asked 1.7m) e 70cm for a waistcoat. However if the same cutter is doing the whole suit, I know he can use less cloth then the 3.4m I buy.

 

[Despos]

For the first try ordering cloth on your own, ask your tailor but if you want a guideline, error on having extra cloth and have the tailor advise you after he has cut a garment for you how much you need for future garments.

You can translate form yards to meters.

2 piece suit 4 yards

Jacket 2.25 yards

Trouser 2 yards.

Your waist size doesn't matter when determining cloth for trousers, it's your seat measure because that is the widest part of the pattern. My guess is you have a 46" seat from your other measurements. The width of the backpart will determine how you lay the front panel. If the back part is too wide you have to move the front panel down and this takes extra length. If there isn't enough length the tailor may need to make the trouser with a crotch piece. This is ok but iy is better to not use a crotch piece.
2" cuffs require 1/8th of a yard more over plain bottom. If you want pleats you may require a bit more cloth. Plain front may need a bit less like 1.75 or 1.825 yards but better to play it safe.

Cutting a jacket and trouser as separates from two pieces of cloth requires more cloth than a suit. You may end up needing 3.75 yards for a suit and 2.25 yards for a jacket and 2 yards for the trouser or 4.25 total yards for an odd jacket and trouser.

It's also better to have extra cloth so all the pattern pieces can be cut in one direction. This matters when you have a nap or a patterned cloth with a directional repeat. Reversing pattern pieces make the pieces render different shades of color and will show an irregular shade difference. This is more relevant on more luxe cloths and less an issue on others but you won't probably know the difference yourself.

The effect when you reverse the pattern direction on the trouser is the fronts and back panel look to be different shades of color, one darker than the other. On the other hand some tailors disregard this to save cloth so you will get what you get.

 

[Mark Seitelman]



For the first try ordering cloth on your own, ask your tailor but if you want a guideline, error on having extra cloth and have the tailor advise you after he has cut a garment for you how much you need for future garments.

* * *
It's also better to have extra cloth so all the pattern pieces can be cut in one direction.

* * *

Excellent advice from a master tailor.

Ask the tailor. Tend to get a little more as "insurance". The few bucks extra won't make much of a difference. You don't want to be short of cloth if it's an end-bolt. Even if it's a stock cloth, it is preferable not to have to place a separate order since the dye lots might differ.

Generally, if it's a oversize pattern (such as a large window pane or glen plaid), you would need more for pattern matching.

You can ask the tailor to give you the leftover cloth for emergency repairs as you would keep some extra carpet tiles or wallpaper for future repairs.

Good luck.

 

[Manton]

I always get (or got, since I need to be out of this game) 4y for 2pc, 5 for a 3pc, 2 for pants, 2.5 for a jacket and 1 for a vest. In all cases that was more than necessary. But I always got the extra cloth back, too, and in certain cases (alterations, reweaving) that proved to be a lifesaver. So it's not always wasted.

 

[Journeyman]

Gentlemen,

Thank you all very much for the extremely kind and helpful responses. I very much appreciate your advice.

 

[CrimsonSox]

Thanks for the very helpful posts. I was wondering how much cloth would be needed for a two piece suit with an extra pair of trousers?

 

[aravenel]