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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I have this fabric for sale for those interested. PM.
     
  2. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    About 5'11" and between 160 -170 lbs. Waist is about 32


    Unfortunately I'm between tailors at the moment so hoping some of you here can help me out in terms of how much fabric I'd need for a pair of pants.
     
  3. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    1.5m should be enough.
     
  4. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    not to disrupt the tweedy flow, but just in case anyone was following, I was able to get huddersfield cloth to send me a couple of swatches of the 'cool new wool' stuff and then have a couple of suit lengths shipped to my tailor in HK, and it's definitely the Bateman Ogden Panache. Nice stuff, I'm having the HC1124 and HC1126 (huddersfield's numbers) made up. Definitely a bargain at the price. I got a couple of swatches of the Minnis Fresco to compare, and they seem pretty similar at least as swatches. Similar weights and openness of weave, similar hand (for me anyway). I also got some swatches of the Minnis QX stuff, kinda interesting...definitely not a tropical/summer cloth even though it's an 8.5-9.5oz plain weave, but might be a nice year-round/spring type cloth.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2014
  5. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    May I know, how much did you pay for your "cool new wool"?
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You want more than 1.5m but probably not more than 2m.

    Hip measure is more important than waist. That is the widest area and determines how the pattern will be laid onto the cloth. If you get pleats you need more cloth than for plain front as you need more width for the top of the front panel and need to move the pattern to accommodate this. Cuffs will require a bit more length than plain bottom.

    Some cloths require you lay the pattern pieces in one direction and not reverse the direction of the two pieces. Could be due to a pattern in the cloth or the weave. If it is a one way cloth and you reverse the pattern pieces you will see uneven coloration of the cloth. This may require extra cloth to cut in one direction. Some tailors are insistent about this and some are careless regarding this. You are better off getting extra cloth than not enough cloth and the cut becomes useless for you.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    You are correct, I forgot to add some factors into it.
     
  8. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    What is the consensus on Zegna Cool Effect cloth? Also is it just supposed to be a "cool in direct sun" phenomenon, or generally all around cool wearing?
     
  9. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    You can see the prices for the huddersfieldcloth.com stuff if you create an account and sign in. The 'cool new wool' is currently GBP 33.18 per metre.
     
  10. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    Including shipping to Hong Kong is still under HK$450 per yard. Quite good price.
     
  11. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Does anybody know where I can buy this fabric(jacket)?

    [​IMG]
     
  12. sol123

    sol123 Member

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  13. Virchow

    Virchow Well-Known Member

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    I always thought it was the same fabric as this but the scale might be off.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2014
  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored

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    I believe it's from the Sherry Kash book?
     
  15. sol123

    sol123 Member

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  16. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Hmm...they look kinda different to me.
    This one? http://www.hollandandsherry.com/apparel/collections.aspx?season=AW2010&details=HS1090 Seems to be different maybe due to the cashmere. The pic I posted looks like plain wool but I'm not an expert in these things.
    Not sure, the picture isn't that good. Hope NYI sees your post.
     
  17. sol123

    sol123 Member

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    @kulata just message @NewYorkIslander I'm sure he will get back to you
     
  18. sol123

    sol123 Member

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    ps the @NewYorkIslander jacket is linen i think
     
  19. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Will sure do. Thanks.
     
  20. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

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    Thanks for the reply Despos.

    I am a bit hippy. Hip measurement is close to 38 inches. And single pleats and two inch cuffs are my personal preference. So I guess it's safer to go with 2m?
     

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