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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior member

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    For single breast, 1.7m is enough for flap pockets. For patch pockets, 1.8m is more than enough.
     
  2. NorCal_1

    NorCal_1 Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 3, 2014
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  4. SimonC

    SimonC Senior member

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    I have a bit of a thing for old English cloth - I was sorting out this afternoon and thought I'd share photos of a few bolts. I suspect I have more than I could ever get made up into suits (a lot more than is shown here), but as the saying goes "they don't make it like they used to":

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And the last photo is a length of Holland and Holland silk, which I'm keeping until I find a project for it:

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  5. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    great stuff, love to see more photos of this type of stuff. one day i will get around to photographing my stock.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    I suspect this is just great marketing for those susceptible to romantic notions about clothes. I mean, yes, it is not made in the same way anymore. But I'm suspicious of any intrinsic/objective superiority.
     
    2 people like this.
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your ability to disagree with people is admirable.
     
  8. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    That's some really cool Holland & Holland silk, Simon. I'm not really one for wacky linings, but I kind of like the idea of a tweed jacket lined in that.
     
    3 people like this.
  9. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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  10. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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  11. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Thanks :)
     
  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Have you felt great old vintage cloth in your hands against similar modern cloths to do a comparison? Or is the above comment just based on conjecture? If the latter that reminds me of people without kids who feel the need to pass judgment on others and their parenting.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2014
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm still very interested in doing this. I think the best way to go is to have @gdl203 help us going through Fox because I know he is already in contact with them.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I would be v. interested as well (provided we choose a 15oz.+ weight for the flannel trousering).
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I agree. I would be looking for something in the 15-17oz range. Heavier than what they stock, but not quite so heavy as the LL stuff, although if they made it to LL specs in the color that I'm looking for I guess that would be fine. I'm assuming heavier weights mean it would be more expensive too.

    Here's my original post on it for those interested (after I posted this a few people made suggestions of cloths to look at but none of them were exactly what I wanted):


    List of interested parties:

    1) Me
    2) @Grammaton Cleric
    3) @archibaldleach
    4) @dieworkwear
    5) @Odd I/O
    6) @bertie
    7) @fassbinder
    8) @zbromer
    9) @DavidLane
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2014
  16. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    :fistbump:


    More people wanting to do runs of ungodly heavy cloths...

    :cloud:
     
  17. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Flannel is so much better as a heavier cloth IMHO. I have a suit in a lighter weight flannel and while it's tailored beautifully, it doesn't drape or hold its shape nearly as well as heavier flannel. 13 oz is about the absolute minimum I'd want to go to on flannel.

    Especially for something that's intended to be for trousers. Will of ASW told me once that trousers should be heavier than jackets, and while I wouldn't take it as an unbreakable rule, it's a good thing to keep in mind. At least for me, I don't get as hot in heavy trousers as I do in a heavy jacket, and the extra weight helps the cloth keep a crease, fall in a straight line while standing, and not flap around too much while walking.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Totally agree here. My favorite is the Fox 17oz which is ideal for NYC late fall and winter. Have one lighter weight Golden Bale which in retrospect I would pass on now even thought he cloth is amazing, it just doesn't hold its shape.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I'd be in for a couple of meters on the sand/ tan flannel. Would be good to keep a stash on hand just for future orders, frankly, as getting just the right shade has been so difficult.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I agree. FWIW, I will probably make a suit out of it, with at least two pairs of trousers, although I recognize this color as a suit would not be for everyone.
     

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