Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[add911_11]



It was silly to have made a completely separate thread about this as I am sure it'll be easier to get answers in here.

Kiton has a 14 micron super 180s fabric. If I wanted this in black, or something very similar, what are my options?

Charles Clayton super200, my dad has 2 suits from it and it is very luxurious, this should be close to Kiton 14micron.

 

[poorsod]



Yup, with Jodek / Isles and the like you're subject to distributor markups. If you choose to buy direct, or via a proxy, Lesser and Smiths are 45-55 gbp / meter.

Not everyone has connections to get around the distributor. IMO your earlier statement that I am being cheated (given that I pay more because I buy through the distributor) seems exaggerated.

 

[haganah]



I assume you want this for black tie? Are you just looking for something lightweight?

Yes on black tie.

The issue is I need a waistcoat to match a tuxedo in that fabric with grosgrain lapels. Yes I understand that if it's not the same cloth, from the same roll, etc. it won't be a match. But it is what it is.

I was thinking of just asking Ercole to do it. No clue if he would have anything similar.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Yes on black tie.

The issue is I need a waistcoat to match a tuxedo in that fabric with grosgrain lapels. Yes I understand that if it's not the same cloth, from the same roll, etc. it won't be a match. But it is what it is.

I was thinking of just asking Ercole to do it. No clue if he would have anything similar.

If it's a plain black, worn in the evening under artificial lights, I think a standard black fabric in a similar weight / weave will be virtually indistinguishable from the original fabric.

Take a look at the plain black in Minnis' S150s QX book (or QZ - I can't remember - the 8oz. one).

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Not everyone has connections to get around the distributor. IMO your earlier statement that I am being cheated (given that I pay more because I buy through the distributor) seems exaggerated.

Well, it was meant as an exaggeration as they're obviously not picking your pockets - you're willfully paying their price. My broader point was that it's unfair to justify the LL's straight-from-the-mill prices based on the fact that cut lengths bought from a local distributor are similarly priced. Not a lot of people, and certainly no tailors, are paying 100 gbp / meter for Lesser / Smiths, but everyone (incl. the tailors) are paying the LL's stipulated price. There's a significant mark-up at work there.

Like I said earlier, I don't begrudge Alden his profit, but I remain surprised that his products have so quickly and effectively recalibrated price expectations amongst members.

To give one recent example, a couple of NY members PM'ed me expressing interest in a heavyweight tweed I own. When I mentioned that I paid only 30 gbp / meter (ordered direct from the mill), they both automatically became skeptical as the LL charged so much more for 'quality, old-world' goods. It didn't matter that this was the same mill that makes Huntsman's house tweeds - the simple price discrepancy led them to discount the value of the competing tweed.

 

[Slickman]

^ this is very true, I picked up johnstons 700g tweed for around 30-40pounds/meter if I remember correctly, and has all the "old world" appeal that one could want, and significantly cheaper than LL. I will say that the LL does put out a quality product, it is just priced with a significant margin built in that suggests to people that thats what it should cost for quality cloth

 

[bertie]

I have kicked the tires on a few LL fabrics but not bought any yet. The obstacle is always the price for me. 100 pounds is about $160 dollars a metre. A 3 piece suit is thus 800 dollars just for fabric. As I do CMT and a canvased 3 piece costs me about $900ish, the marginal cost of fabric makes a big difference for me.

I have bought lost of fabric in the 40 to 60 pound range which gets me 50% more clothes.

I do appreciate LL recreating some older style fabrics. If nothing else, it suggests to the larger mills that there remains a market for that type of fabric. It also gives those with less price sensitivity (including those using more expensive tailors) more choices.

Maybe at some point, the uniqueness/novelty factor will outweigh the cost factor for me as well.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

I have kicked the tires on a few LL fabrics but not bought any yet. The obstacle is always the price for me. 100 pounds is about $160 dollars a metre. A 3 piece suit is thus 800 dollars just for fabric. As I do CMT and a canvased 3 piece costs me about $900ish, the marginal cost of fabric makes a big difference for me.

Wow. Cad & The Dandy?

 

[bertie]



Wow. Cad & The Dandy?

Hah - no. Just my local tailor.

 

[velomane]



When I mentioned that I paid only 30 gbp / meter (ordered direct from the mill), they both automatically became skeptical as the LL charged so much more for 'quality, old-world' goods. It didn't matter that this was the same mill that makes Huntsman's house tweeds - the simple price discrepancy led them to discount the value of the competing tweed.

Would you mind sharing with us the mill you're referring to here? Is it Islay?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Would you mind sharing with us the mill you're referring to here? Is it Islay?

Yup, Islay.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Hah - no. Just my local tailor.

Would you mind sharing with us the tailor you're referring to here?

 

[poorsod]

I am surprised none of you complain about the London Lounge linen shirting price. I forget if it is 50 or 100 GBP/m.

 

[aravenel]

Pretty sure Unbel has some. Looks nice, but it is too rich for my blood.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I am surprised none of you complain about the London Lounge linen shirting price. I forget if it is 50 or 100 GBP/m.

I mean...sure, I would like the price to be lower. But I don't see what good complaining is going to do. You either buy it or don't.