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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    You are absolutely right. Sorry, in my heart of hearts, midnight blue is the only blue.
     
  2. borbor

    borbor Senior member

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    On dream bespoke's facebook page, there are jacket pics on there with that cloth
     
  3. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    I have the whole swatch book. Let me know if you want pictures of of any designs in particular.

    Have a look at Cacciopolli; their wool/silk/linen combo's are made by Loro Piana. Some lovely designs too. Again, let me know if you want to see it. They also have Solaro Cotton. Im getting some Airo cotton for pants:

    [​IMG]


    The new Harrisons Mystique book has come out. What do you guys think of this:

    [​IMG]


    Barbera also has a nice jacketing book.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. AdamWill

    AdamWill Senior member

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    that Mystique looks a lot like a suit pattern.
     
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A sideline on CMT for shirts---for whatever reason, Ascot Chang's shirts can get very expensive at the high end. For example, a DJ Anderson cotton/linen (really nice, BTW, and exclusive to them) runs close to $400. Loro Piana goes even higher without too much effort. I don't know if that is a distributor thing, a HK tax thing, or just their way of having their best customers pay the bills.

    Anyway I just sent a few things to them from Acorn and Bonfanti-- neither of which AC carries-- ordered off their respective websites. The Acorn would run generally from $40 to $90 at the very high end per shirt, allowing for about 2.5m/shirt (or 3.5m of the 90cm stuff). Bonfanti starts at around $80 and goes up to around $140 for the same amounts.

    Ascot Chang's CMT rate is $110 flat.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2014
  6. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I assume that's the HK CMT price?
     
  7. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    $USD. But yes, I deal with a HK branch.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2014
  8. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  9. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Is this for MTM shirts? What is the best way to get measured short of going to HK?
     
  10. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I'm guessing you need to go to HK - the NYC / LA Ascot Chang stores charge $210 for CMT.
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Any time linen is added to shirting it gets insanely expensive.
     
  12. NorCal_1

    NorCal_1 Senior member

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    SEEKING SOURCES for (Darker) Olive POW w/ Rust overcheck wool for odd jacket???


    I'm close to pulling the trigger on a vintage NOS (darker shade) olive Prince of Wales w/ rust overcheck section of cloth (90%/10% wool cashmere) to make up into an odd jacket, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a good alternative in the most recent books (Ariston? Cacciopoli? H&S, LP? C Barbera?)

    for those of you who have seen this combination, can you recommend mills and / books I should look at to know I've made the best choice

    Much appreciated

    NorCal_1
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2014
  13. shawsdale

    shawsdale New Member

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    Brendon,

    Although it is not on their website, HFW have a bunch called 'Portofino' which has some items with linen; and other blends, e.g. bamboo (!). I'm not sure how readily available it is, but last year I saw a very attractive 'look book' advertising this line in a now defunct tailors here in the UK and HFW may be willing to send you swatches if you ask. I've always found HFW agreeable to deal with, even though I'm just a retail customer rather than within the industry.

    Best wishes

    David
     
  14. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Try Baird McNutt on their cut-length site http://jhannaltd.com/
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Eminent funding for 10 of these...



    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  16. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Who sells a "blue" gunclub / district check like the ones below?

    One of the cloths is tagged John G Hardy, but there's nothing like it in the Hardy Minnis lineup right now


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
  17. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Hardy riviera range used to have it.Zegna also has something similar
     
  18. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    After trying and failing at picking out a suitable summer sportcoat, I think I am going to play it safe and get another linen suit made up. I already have a navy W. Bill (bottom swatch in the first picture) and am leaning towards something in tan/khaki. The darkhorse is the W. Bill 60142 which is a lighter blue than the one I have. Thoughts?


    W. Bill - Lighter than navy
    [​IMG]

    W. Bill - Khaki
    [​IMG]

    Cacciopoli - Khaki - more yellow than the W. Bill - more of a "British Khaki"
    [​IMG]
     
  19. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    How do those khakis work with your skin tone?

    I'm not mad at the lighter than blue W. Bill tho.
     
  20. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    The top two fabrics in the picture are from Hardy's sadly discontinued Riviera range (I have three jackets in it, including one in the fabric on the top left, and would have bought many more). As it happens, I do have a length of Worsted Alsport in a similar pattern that I might consider parting with. It's the second from the bottom on this picture:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2014

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