Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Manton]

Minnis you can get by going to the Huddersfield Fine Worstes website. Many tailors will also be able to source it themselves.

Wodehouse is sadly gone, though lengths of it may turn up on ebay or in fabric shops such as Tip Top in Brooklyn. I know that Rubinacci has a ton of it in their inventory but they will not sell it retail, however, if you want a Rubinacci suit, that would be one way to get Wodehouse.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Tip-Top in Brooklyn still has a ton of Woodhouse. I don't recall if any Summer Comfort is still available.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I've heard horror stories about Tip Top and fake stuff and such. I don't know that I trust the place.

 

[zalb916]



[COLOR=0000FF] I'd appreciate more clear insight on PRICES/ SOURCES as I am new to this.

I've said it repeatedly in this thread. If you are new to having clothes made for you, don't source your own fabric. You are talking about pretty standard cloth. Just get it from your tailor. The savings from sourcing yourself are generally minimal, if any, and the possibility of problems from sourcing yourself is considerably higher.

 

[Manton]



I've heard horror stories about Tip Top and fake stuff and such. I don't know that I trust the place.

wow, I can't imagine there is any money in faking fabric. This is not Romanee Conti, people, the sums are small and the number of people who know the famous brands are few.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

That's what I thought as well, but apparently China has been faking Dormeuil, H&S, etc and also no name "Made in England" fabrics.

 

[terrorsquad]

That's what I thought as well, but apparently China has been faking Dormeuil, H&S, etc and also no name "Made in England" fabrics.

Yup and plenty of fake Scabal too.

 

[Manton]

Amazing. I stopped buying cloth for other reasons but I'm glad I did.

 

[dopey]

I am guessing that Chinese companies started faking fabrics for domestic consumption and other Asian markets (like India) and then realized it wasn't that hard to sell more through e-bay and maybe even jobbers. I am surprised that Tip Top would carry fake stuff, but I have never even been there so what do I know.

 

[Manton]

I would assume that if Tip Top is selling fakes, it is inadvertent.

 

[RDiaz]

Manton, I think I recall you saying somewhere that you owned a pair of Holland & Sherry poly/cotton seersucker trousers? How did they hold up? I'm picking up a jacket made of that fabric today (fingers crossed) and was wondering about its durability, since it's probably going to get quite a bit of wear.

I have a pincord suit made from the same book (poly/cotton blend too) and it was surprisingly cool for such a mix, but I haven't worn it much because it fits like crap.

 

[etkl]

I have bought tons of fabric from Tip Top (and other jobbers) and I've never seen anything that remotely struck me as counterfeit. They generally get closeouts frommiills, merchants, clothing manufacturers and, to a small extent, tailors. I wouldn't vouch for their expertise or for the quality of all of the cloth they sell but I've never had reason to question the authenticity of their goods.

 

[Manton]

H&S pants are fine. Summer only so they don't get worn a ton, but fine.

 

[emptym]



Does the color of fabrics make a difference in the hand? I have a Minnis fresco in navy, and charcoal both in the same weight, but they feel very different and the weave is even so subtly different. Is that just what happens with different runs over time? They were purchased about a year apart from each other.

Yep, I have charcoal, mid gray, dark brown, and 0520 -- all in the 9/10 oz stuff. The dark brown is much softer than the others for some reason. I did order it a year or two before the others. When I got it, I was wondering why people thought it was a rough fabric. But after wearing a pair of unlined gray ones, I know.

I've also become of fan of the lightest weight fresco, 8/9 oz. I avoided it because Will once wrote that the knees bagged on a a pair of pants he had in it. But that hasn't been my experience. I got a pair from Luxire to test the fabric, then wore them for a couple days in Miami. I'm sold and will probably get more pants and a suit or two in that.

[COLOR=0000FF]What are the other next best alternatives? Just in case? I might just splurge for Frescos as a long term investment. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=0000FF]Can you please share - The rate/ price for these fabrics you recommended? And how/ where can I source them? As you may have noticed I am rather new at this...
[COLOR=0000FF]I am realizing that some of these fabrics are expensive but some information on price and sources and direction/ guidance on them would be nice.  [/COLOR]

The cloth can be purchased direct from their Huddersfield website. I think it's about 50 pounds per meter and you'd need 3.5-4.5 meters depending on your size and what kind of suit you'd like. Best to ask your tailor, as others have mentioned. A tailor will also be able to get the cloth for much cheaper than you can, although, he'll probably add some markup of his/her own.

 

[msulinski]



Yes, Crispaire. JP Hardy's and RDiaz pents are the older stuff. It wears, makes and drapes great.

The Crispaire book I saw didn't go below 8.5 oz. Maybe it was Cool Breeze?