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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is hard to pair a lighter colored trouser with that jacket. It looks like a light shade of blue/grey on the screen to me. If you wear darker grey or navy, you may not be used to a light color jacket and darker trouser combo, but what do I know! Say this because have had clients that didn't wear/like things for that reason but couldn't pinpoint the reasoning.

    If the collar isn't staying on your neck, what is causing the issue would make the jacket uncomfortable and annoying to wear. Jacket is always fighting you.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Have never understood this occurrence.
     
  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can I get a quick show of hands? Who here found their first commission unworkable?
     
  4. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    My one bespoke suit is my least favorite suit. Tailor's style ultimately did not jibe with my style... too structured, not enough freedom of movement, and also just doesn't look as good as what I can find off the rack from some makers. My choice of cloth was not ideal though, heavier would have been better. Pants are very nice though.

    I'm very jelly about the bespoke crowd's ability to pick and choose cloths as in this thread. That's the main thing that tempts me about more bespoke at this point.

    But: 1) The jackets and suits that I ultimately buy OTR look better on me than a most of the bespoke stuff I see on SF (I guess I am lucky with build, and I am very choosy); 2) The iterations of fittings are a very big hassle given my schedule limitations; & 3) The price differential usually favors OTR. So I have yet to go back to bespoke.

    Maybe if and when I have way more free time I will try again with another shop known for a softer shoulder.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    I think what he meant was people end up choosing wrong tailors, adding too many bells and whistle for their first commission.

    My own experience was choosing a black suit as my first commission many moons ago before SF to the angst of my tailor, I've ended wearing the suit only a handful of times.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Unworkable, no, but (see above) I'm not really thrilled to wear it and prefer others.
     
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks, gents. dopey? aportnoy? Manton? pB? TRINI? (and any others, of course)
     
  8. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    For my first true bespoke suits, I had a client pay for his traveling tailor to make a suit for me. Not a fan of the fabric, style, or fit. Simultaneously (or close to it), Despos was making a suit for me. It's as great as you would expect.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    My first bespoke suit was for my wedding. Did it's job admirably that day, but the shade of light grey limited it's usefulness thereafter. I might have chosen something else if I'd known then what I know now (it was pre SF). Haven't put it on a while, wonder if it still fits at all...
     
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  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is that why you are frowning in your avatar picture? You just tried on your suit!



    So your tailor tried to dissuade you from ordering a black suit?

    There is an intangible aspect when ordering custom clothing. You don't know how the silhouette of the maker will render on your frame. That's what happened to yuppie. You don't know how the jacket will feel or move on you or with you until it is finished. I don't rush first fittings with a client. I tend to have them linger and watch how the jacket moves or how they respond when doing normal movements. Fitting clothes while you are static in front of the mirror isn't realistic. Jackets and trousers need a kinetic quality so you don't notice them when you wear them.


    I am reluctant when someone is ordering every option they can think of. I understand the reasoning. With RTW you have no options so given the opportunity they can ask for details they like.

    Some of the best options with custom clothing aren't styling but functional. I like to size pockets to what you carry to minimize movement. Like a pocket to hold your glasses or sunglasses without them falling sideways in a wider pocket.
    It's all about personalization.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Make a lot of suits for weddings. Better to get something that can be practical to your lifestyle afterwards.
     
  12. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    I wear my first bespoke suit often still. It was a navy birdseye, so safe color, and the tailor and I clicked well with style choices. That said, I had a couple failures in MTM with other tailors previously which I learned from.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    An H lesser flannel double breasted suit was my first bespoke suit last year. I wear it once a week during this winter.
     
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  14. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    If I looked like the person in my avatar I would avoid showing my face.


    Yeah. Something I love about RTW and fear about bespoke. I am a careful/deliberate guy and like knowing what I'm getting.


    I think my tailor was more enthusiastic about tightening up the back around the shoulders/underarms than I was, and it's tight across the back when I stretch my arms forward. Not massively, but noticeably and annoyingly.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I think some of it is finding a tailor who is capable and willing to work with your ignorance. At least, this was my experience. The suit Despos made for me is awesome and I love wearing it.
     
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  16. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    Is that you looking through my window?
     
  17. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Only on the nights when I'm cold and lonely. The other nights its that guy Jeff. You know the one - he says you do.
     
  18. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I have - on the first commission from a few different tailors, actually. 'Unworkable' overstates the case a bit but they're hardly ever worn.

    If you go into it realizing that, it's a little less galling (though obviously still expensive).

    I'd recommend getting something that naturally has a bit shorter life or that you'd already wear less frequently - cotton, linen or even flannel (I know some flannels are relatively hardy but yea). The downside to that is that the first two are somewhat quirky cloths to fit / tailor so it isn't an ideal starting point in that regard.
     
  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You're depressing me, Canta.
     
  20. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    My first was a navy workhorse from Chan. I don't love it, but it still get a lot of use out of it. My second order was more successful but I wouldn't order another from them.
     
    1 person likes this.

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