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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think the new ones have number codes. Here's the one I ordered (19/20 ounces):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014
    3 people like this.
  2. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice cloth Matt...Bring on the 20oz tweeds!!

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    600 and 604 are old patterns from the days when they didn't use numbers. They have no names on the site. The others have no numbers. I think you chose one of the ighter weight ones, not the heavier ones. The Reay pattern is in the Kildary range and is 500 not 700 gram. That is still substantial, but 19/20oz
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014
  4. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    My contribution to the 80's couch fabric set:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014
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  5. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I saw this being made up at Poole a couple of weeks ago. Very nice stuff.
     
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  6. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Nice stuff. Mind sharing the maker?
     
  7. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    i *think* it's Zegna but I could be (most likely) very wrong.

    I got it from Ed so he might be able to shed some more light as to its origin.
     
  8. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I've got a 24oz thats just too damn heavy, good for a NYC winter, but the pattern scale is a bit too large, mistake on my part
     
  9. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It would great to see a picture if the cloth. Not enough emphasis is placed on learning from mistakes and it would be great to see what someone found didn't work out. I have one that I posted on LL way back. If it hasn't been given away, I will post it.
     
  10. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Link to the post? Even if gone, it would be good to see.
     
  11. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I meant that the LL post is gone and if I still have the coat I would take a picture. But I found an old photo of it. [​IMG]. It is a soft, plush, cashmere feeling thing, though I don't think it is cashmere. It is too dark too serve as a comfy sweater, styled wrong, and not a great sport coat fabric. A mistake all around. To make matters worse, it never fit right and Dege couldn't really fix it, though they tried.
     
  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, yes. One of the legendary gaps in Dege service.

    I can see why you went for it, though, as it is nice-looking. Perhaps specifying something a little less crisp in detail (notch lapels and open patches, even 3-button) would have made it more friendly.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014
  13. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    dopey, this is the aspect of bespoke clothing which gives me pause. Dropping that kind of coin to end up with something unwearable... I am at the edge, but haven't summoned the nerve to step off.
     
  14. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Well, what is something you would wear the shit out of?
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This one was a failure for a number of reasons that all came together. I will say that is my only real bespoke regret and failure though there are things I don't wear much. Nonetheless failure is a risk.


    sometimes you can't know in advance and it just settles on you after a while. I would not have anticipated that I would wear my flannel DB suits so much, but I do. Same with the sport coat I posted above. Also, I wear things in waves. Maybe wearing the same thing every week for a while, then putting it away and forgetting about it.
    The best you can do is put the odds in your favor by understanding what about what you already wear makes you happy.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I agree. I was trying to be functional about asking that question without overtly biasing towards that particular lens. I figured anything one would "wear the shit out of" is something you sort of have to be happy with. Definitely agree though that it's not always straight forward.
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This one was a failure for a number of reasons that all came together. I will say that is my only real bespoke regret and failure though there are things I don't wear much. Nonetheless failure is a risk.


    If you were happy with the fit do you think you would like it/wear it more or is it more cloth,color,styling, etc. that is off putting?

    I once made a suit in navy twill and never wore it once. Didn't care for it. That was totally cloth and styling. Things that don't feel right get worn a lot less if at all.

    Just curious what you think.
     
    2 people like this.
  18. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The combination made it unwearable. The fit wasn't terrible (collar keeps riding up and away) and if I loved the rest of it I could live with the fit issues or would have just brought it to a different tailor to fix. If it fit well I am sure I would wear it once in a while because it is a comfy cloth and seemed to have occasional uses as a kind of evening sport coat. But the combination made it a dud.
     
  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For a first commission, I don't think I'd go for anything out there in terms of fabric or styling. My concern is more about the fit, ending up with something that just can't be salvaged.

    I actually hope to crowdsource my decision a bit. Stay tuned. Or don't. You know, whatever. :)
     
  20. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Not to scare you off from getting your first bespoke commission. A very good friend with a lot of experience in bespoke clothing told me once you'll more than likely end up not throwing out your first bespoke commission in the bin. He calls it tuition fees.
     
    3 people like this.

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