1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was. I'd like to keep you abreast of the improvements we've made over the past few days.
    @notification emails have been added, in response to user requests

    Attached images are now Full Size by default

    Users are now all allowed three (3) links in their signature files,

    SSL certification is now in place so you can all browse securely.

    The server has been reconfigured so that site speeds will improve.

    Notice: Right now the site is slow because we are fixing all the images from the past 4 months. Many of you noticed that these were missing, and we are fixing that problem now. Unfortunately, it is taking up a lot of resources and causing the site to be slow.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    My newest acquisition is the birdsye flannel from fox in 300 grams. I've never used a flannel this light but I think I would get really great use out of it and since the flannel is a lighter weight, I'm planning to have it made as a 3-piece.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    Anyone of the POW would work as a sport coat, I'm not sure why it wouldn't? The far left light grey one, will look great with blue chinos and light pink or blue shirt
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Looking for high quality, obnoxiously large scale tweeds for making jackets. Something like this:

    [​IMG]

    Help?
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    The scales are too fine for an odd jacket. These are definitively suitings. Also flannel odd jackets are odd. Flannel is for suits and pants.
     
  5. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member

    Messages:
    25,669
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    

    they would not. You see alot of those types of "sportcoats" around here and they are not appropriate. Those are muted, smaller scale patterns made for suits. You can wear one as a sportcoat in the same way you can wear a pinstripe jacket as a sportcoat but those are suiting fabrics. From Fox, this is a sportcoat PoW (which would also work as DB)

    http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/pro...ngths/prince-of-wales-check-jacketing-flannel
     
  6. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member

    Messages:
    25,669
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    

    Holland and Sherry has but you don't like H&S i think. Fox has a new tweeds book, I have it at home and can tale some pics. Marling and Evans has some rough large tweeds, quality wise its probably mid range.
     
  7. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2013
    To my eye, it looks fine, I guess YMMV.

    Also don't have an issue with flannel coats
     
  8. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    

    Not obnoxious to me, but this is the one that I just purchased.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    

    Fox has some nice looking flannels in the 300gms weight but I've unfortunately heard nothing good about them.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  10. Ralphie

    Ralphie Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2014
    So Edmorel, How do we understand this.
    Why is that PoW check more suited to Sports Jacket than the other Fox Flannels I orig posted? Just try to get my head around this.

    Also, which bunches are best for jacketing tweeds, (I want to have something made and love the look of the tweeds/flannels jackets on the Armoury blog and on the Kiton/Attolini websites)
    I have a great tailor here in London and want to source the cloth.
     
  11. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,146
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    ^re; the 10 oz fox flannel: there are at least two decent reviews in this thread. There is some wisdom on this board that 10 oz flannel is always a bad choice. I think that there are likely many, many variables that go into that and I'm more than happy to figure it out for myself. I love the heavier fox flannels but they don't make the birdseye in a heavier weight and I have a 14 ounce fox flannel suit and in NYC, it can only be worn during the coldest months.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  12. forex

    forex Senior member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    

    Do you know how to get hands on H&S without paying a small fortune?
     
  13. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member

    Messages:
    25,669
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    

    not sure what prices you are thinking but I have an account and use them more than any other mill (although I only have accounts with 2-3 other mills), so I could get you what you want.
     
  14. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member

    Messages:
    25,669
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    

    its hard to make a rule set in stone, although some people will but for the most part, the difference between a suiting cloth and a odd jacket comes down to texture and scale. Smaller scale, worsted or flannel fabrics are almost exclusively suitings. Tweeds, large scale patterns are almost exclusively odd jackets. Like everything else, there are exceptions. Solids such as fresco's, linens can be used as sprtcoats. Worsted faux tweeds are used as odd jackets. Tweeds are used in suits and so on. its one of those things that you learn with experience.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    

    Scabal, Noble Tweed book and Holland & Sherry has at least 5 or 6 books of tweed jacketing
     
  16. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    

    I'd love to hear how things go with it. I'm a fan of the Fox navy windowpane but the rumoured fragility of the 10oz flannels scares me.

    Would be happy to hear otherwise.
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    It's not a matter of what it looks like to your eyes. Broadly speaking, suit and jacket fabrics are two different things. The finer and less contrasting the pattern, the more appropriate it is for suiting, as opposed to jacketing. Also, the finer and smoother the cloth, the more appropriate for suiting.

    The glen plaids you've selected are as fine and small scale as glen plaids get. Hence, suiting. Flannel is also generally a suiting material. Hence, again, suiting.

    In fact, glen plaids are generally for suits, not jackets. Only the loudest and largest versions (and in tweed, not flannel) will make do for a jacket.


    See above. Fineness of the pattern and cloth.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014
  18. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Location:
    London
    

    I'm also interested in something like this from a mill with a bit of character.

    Also, @Matthew, do you get much wear out of that donegal tweed jacket you (iirc) had made up a few years ago? I love donegal in theory, but I never see it made up and am a little wary of the stuff.

    Thanks.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member

    Messages:
    20,795
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    

    Yes, I get a ton of wear out of it. Why wary?
     
  20. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Location:
    London
    Oh, it's just quite a rare cloth which might draw unwanted attention. I see a donegal jacket in the wild perhaps as little as 3 times to the year.

    It's not that I'm particularly self-concious, it's just that I think it might limit how often I wear it.

    But I'm glad to hear your wear it often, because it's probably going to be my next commission.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2014

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by