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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Holland & Sherry used to have some but haven't seen their books for a while now.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

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    I'm thinking of getting my first linen suit. I'm looking for advice on color (and, if possible, the fabric book/number). I am thinking of a not-too-dark navy, but am open to other suggestions.

    I will wear it relatively frequently. The other suits I wear in summer are a single-breasted medium gray worsted and a single-breasted light tan cotton. My sport coats (which I also wear to work) are a gray wool-silk POW and two that need to be replaced: a navy hopsack blazer and an olive wool micro-check.

    I'm thinking of patch pockets and maybe brown horn buttons if it's blue (allowing it to be a Blazersuit).

    W. Bill (13 oz) and Hardy Minnis (11 oz) are potential candidates, but I'm really looking for any ideas.

    Thoughts?
     
  3. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I have the W. Bill slightly lighter than navy linen suit and I highly recommend it. Perfect shade of blue, light enough that it is looks spring/summer but dark enough that it can actually be worn to meetings. Great drape and hand. Mine has patch pockets and horn buttons.

    Medtech got three linen suits made from NSM. Worth checking out those pics.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Go with wbill tobacco linen 60154 3 roll 2 with 3 patch or 2 patch/welt, don't even ask for a sample, just call your tailor and order it, it will save a lot of back and forth in this thread :)
     
    3 people like this.
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    W Bill is a good staple, and has some excellent classic colors.

    For a significant premium, the London Lounge linens are even better, and there are a handful of colors that you can't get elsewhere. Not that you'll want your first suit to be anything other than light navy, mid/dark grey, or tobacco.
     
  6. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    Solbiati linen is great stuff.
     
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  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Re: the linen suit question, I love tan linen but seeing as you already have a summer suit in tan cotton and something in medium grey, I think a slightly lighter than navy linen (RAF blue or something similar) would be perfect for you.
     
  8. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    Has anybody used Vanquish II by Dormeuil?
     
  9. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    At something like $5,000 per meter, I'm guessing no. We grumble at LL prices here.
     
  10. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

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    Do you know if you have 60142? Thanks for the Medtech reference -- I had forgotten those, all of which look really good.

    If I go with blue (and I like linen), I may go with tobacco next time.


    I've emailed Isles to ask for samples. My budget may limit me to W. Bill, but I did visit LL to check out Alden's photos.


    I think I will go with heavier fabric for now.


    I forgot to mention that I have a navy double-breasted, but I only wear it for weddings, etc. But that doesn't change the need for a blue single-breasted suit.

    Thanks, everyone, this was really helpful.
     
  11. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I would advise you to get the tobacco instead of blue, just because it is something different than you would never see as a worsted. You can also pair the pants with a blue jacket. Also, being linen is a casual suit and not something you wear to the office (depending on where you live), I'd want a color that sets it apart from ordinary suit colors. If you didn't already have a cream suit, I'd say get a cream linen suit, other than that get the tobacco or a dark brown DB, the blue is just too easy of a choice

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  12. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    Unless it comes with unlimited complimentary BJs from nubile vixens, there is no way one could justify such a spendy price.
     
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This might sound crazy, but is it possible for your tailor to change a patch breast pocket to a welted one?
     
  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Yes.
     
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  15. moddey

    moddey Well-Known Member

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    nice
     
  16. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I just picked this up. Carlo Barbera for H Lesser around 9 oz. I'm wondering if the shade is right for me. Do you think it is too dark?

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    I don't play the 'justify' game with goods or services I'm buying with discretionary income. That's not to say I won't perform due dilligence or attempt to negotiate on price but in the end if I want it, I buy it.
     
  18. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Big baller. Shot caller.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I think mine is a shade darker than the 60142. It really depends how you want to use it. I was drawn to the 60142 - it is an attractive color - but realized a full suit of it would just look too dandy for me. I wanted something I could wear to the office - I work in finance in NYC.
     
  20. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    If not having to check your finance before buying a suit qualifies......
     

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