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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In addition to Lessers/Harrisons, look at Smiths (14oz Steadfast, and 13oz Botany).
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Thanks mafoo and concordia.

    Here's another question. Would you take a nice mid-grey sharkskin over a mid-grey regular worsted? (Medium weight) A mid grey suit is a gap I need to fill in my wardrobe.

    A good sharkskin seems more visually interesting. NMWA might have chosen to carry a sharkskin as its only mid grey suit for that reason.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a medium grey sharkskin suit coming in from Rubinacci. Lesser Lumb's Golden Bale. Awesome stuff.

    To be clear, sharkskin is just form of worsted wool. It's just a different weave pattern, like herringbone or twill. I like it because it adds some color variegation without imposing a distinct pattern.
     
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  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Any of that floating around on the net or did you order direct through Rubinacci?



    Right, what I was getting at. Thanks for clarifying what it actually is. Helpful.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You can order directly from Lesser, but most bespoke tailors should be able to get it for you.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    5 people like this.
  7. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    Is that the material we discussed for a navy sport coat last fall? We should get on that.
     
  8. Patrick R

    Patrick R Senior member

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    Out of curiosity, do you remember what we used for my sharkskin suit?
     
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    I've got a Samuelsohn dark grey flannel suit with a decent cut. Wool-cashmere blend.

    Lately I've been thinking the fabric is kind of a mutt. It's a fine, thin flannel and will probably wear out quickly. Wrinkles easily compared to my chunkier odd flannel pants.

    Do you all prefer flannel suits in the heavier, chunkier cloth?
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2014
  10. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    I prefer all my suits in heavy chunky cloth, not just flannel. Can't comment on wear, yet, but they feel much more substantial.
     
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The Botany has a wide selection of sharkskin in multiple different shades.
     
  12. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    I've got flannel in 16 oz and 11/12 oz. The heavier stuff does not have as sharp a crease but has nice drape due to the weight. The lighter stuff behaves more like regular suit material but has the texture of flannel. I have not had either for decades so can't comment on the ultimate durability but the heavy stuff looks like it will outlast me.
     
  13. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Lightweight flannel sucks IMO, heavy stuff is much better, at least 14oz
     
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  14. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Still wondering what navy fabric might be right for an odd jacket. I saw a twill one (all wool and looking kinda rough) - does that count? Vox' coherent combinations thread doesn't include it:

    Quote:
    Looks like this, just in navy:

    [​IMG]


    The availabe hopsacks are all to light in color...
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
  15. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Been wanting a great tan wool suit for forever, but have never been able to find a perfect OTR one. This Armani Collezioni number from a 2008 GQ issue (pre-SF for me) put the idea in my head. (I think the Armani was actually cotton)

    [​IMG]

    http://www.gq.com/style/suit-guide/...heroes-khaki-business-suits-slideshow#slide=1

    Almost bought a tan Canali once, but it had pleated pants. And I bought an RLBL once, but then got rid of it after realizing the cut wasn't for me.

    Minnis Fresco seems like the fabric to it in if you're going bespoke.

    Can anyone confirm if this Vox suit was Minnis "Wheat" Fresco 0519?


    [​IMG]

    https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/22

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  16. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice article. Agree about the supersized houndstooths, they look like a digital photo zoomed in.
     
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  17. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    +1. That's a great article despos. Thanks for sharing it
     
  18. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What counts as super-sized houndstooth? Manton rails against the small modern version, though my preference runs to smaller over large.
     
  19. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    LL one is sized pretty well
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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