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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Same price by LL, check it out.
     
  2. forex

    forex Senior member

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    What do you think of Agnelli PoW? Not too heavy?
     
  3. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    I'm afraid I have no intention of contributing to the owner's Cuban habit, if it was a run dealing with a mill direct I would be.
     
  4. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Doesn't seem too heavy. Appears to have a somewhat open weave in parts (like many LL cloths) which should allow it to breathe. It's denser to the touch than I imagined. I assumed with it being lambswool that it would be "fluffier" but it's solid. Getting it made up ASAP.
     
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    At the end of the day, the LL cloths are fantastic. They are expensive, but I'd rather pay more for something you can't get elsewhere while not having to deal with all the logistics of organizing one's own run of cloth. I've done it with Minnis and it takes up way more time that I expected. The combination of time, uniqueness and quality make them a buy for me.
     
  6. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    You have a picture and know the mill. no reason it couldn't be made with that advantage. Having a notion of how much time and effort is involved in a run and disliking the mantra of snobbishness and constant refrain of "they don't make anything like they used to anymore except for me and my secret organic artisans" I refuse to pay a 70% premium to someone's claret fund.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    And that's totally fair. However, I'd be very surprised if the mill would compromise their relationship with Michael by remaking an LL cloth for someone else. And even going to another mill with a swatch or photo wouldn't feel right. Designing one's cloth is one thing, but interfering with one's intellectual property is another.
     
  8. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Picking classic patterns out of a book is not design, and knowing some of the designers and colourists in the mills that make the spinning specifications I would credit them as the designer, not whoever picks up a telephone and dials it in. Designs in clothing cannot be protected by IP relevant TED here http://www.ted.com/talks/johanna_blakley_lessons_from_fashion_s_free_culture.html. If I had something woven for me I would not have the temerity to call myself a designer in place of the individual who did the work. As for whether or not a mill would make something, its their job to weave what you want, not some peculiar alchemy.
     
  9. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    You can do what you want. I speak for myself in that I wouldn't feel comfortable simply taking one design that someone else made (be it a mill or person or whoever) and then copying it. Making a new design that I spent time and effort in sorting out the details is more rewarding and would make me sleep better.
     
  10. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Tthere is nothing new under heaven if you know your Ecclesiasticus. And I will be damned if I pay a pompous Anglophile manqué a surcharge to make what my grandfathers' wore. I owe the LL nor Alden anything. Squares, houndstooths and stripes were around long before they appeared.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  11. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Cloth is super heavy (probably overcoating) that I found while digging for YH. Tag on it said it was SPONGED in 1927, so I imagine its a bit older than that. Work by Ercoles.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Quote: Nice stuff, well wear!!
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    To each their own and I wish you luck if you go ahead and make something up and manage the process.

    NYI - good stuff on the vintage cloth!
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    NYI, that's pretty cool. Do you have a closeup of the fabric?
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  15. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Please do Tchoy when you get a chance; big fan of BNT's work.
     
  16. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    I'll get a closeup at some point this weekend...its a real subtle herringbone.
     
  17. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Yeah, Simpsons reference. For those interested Marling & Evans are coming out with a new stock supported range in February/March which will provide an alternate to Fox Bros. and Minnis.
     
  18. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    1) Minnis Fresco 0511 blazersuit (no pix, you've seen the 0511 before many times).

    2) Harrisons Mirage brown with blue triple windowpane sportcoat:

    [​IMG]
    I don't think this photo really does it justice. The brown is darker and the blue is a bit more vivid IRL, but has a great look. ​

    Fit pix to come at some point in the Ercoles thread.

    Btw, it appears that I bought the last remaining jacket-length of Minnis Fresco 0518 brown that HFW had in their stockroom. HFW has discontinued the color. It is an unfunded liability for me at the moment.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  19. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Could some DH member clean this mess up?
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Interesting. Details?
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2013

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