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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

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    It is the culture of the region in general. The suit & tie was never deeply embedded within South East Asia and its culture.

    Now the suit & tie is gaining traction amongst the new generation of business leaders there who are replacing the previous generation of senior management. As mimo has mentioned, it was 10 years ago and 10 years ago in Singapore/Malaysia, the generation of senior management were probably men who were brought up by parents who had experienced both WW2 and British colonial rule.

    I'm not sure how to really put it into words and I'm from Singapore. But I can largely say that the attitude and values that the previous generation of senior management were brought up with are vastly different from the current ones.

    The gradual amount of Western influence on the way business is conducted is also the reason why suit & ties were signs of junior status as the kiddos grew up with it while the senior levels grew up without it.
     
    2 people like this.
  2. forex

    forex Senior member

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    People interested in this Breanish fabric, please contact me. We can organize the run and I can share details over PM.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. velomane

    velomane Senior member

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    Love the lapel roll.
     
  4. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    The Netherlands
    /\ Thanks.

    Some members asked via pm whether the quarters were cut closed or whether it was due to the dummy. It was the latter I think. Here's a quick picture of the jackets first outing earlier this week. Pants are made from a vintage heavy flannel Guabello, quite similar to the royal flannel that Caccioppoli is currently offering and which is made to their own specifications http://caccioppoli1920.tumblr.com/post/37855649129/our-collection-of-guabellos-royal-flannel-a

    [​IMG]

    I went through my boxes with unfunded liabilities and decided to sell some, a suits length of an LP summer green (LP's take on solaro) which is no longer made, jacket's length of Carlo Barbera for Lessers gunclub in 13 oz. (also no longer being made after Barbera was bought by Kiton) and three 90 cm. Bonfanti shirtings

    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/372008/loro-piana-summer-green/0_30

    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/372009/carlo-barbera-for-lessers-13-oz-gunclub/0_30

    [​IMG]

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/372010/3-giancarlo-bonfanti-90-cm-shirtings/0_30
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Did I see fusing under the lapel canvas?:facepalm:
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Interlining fusing is rather popularly used in all high end bespoke tailor operation. Sometimes the fabric will need this for better tailoring.
     
  7. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I can't tell if you are being serious.
     
  8. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    I don't know what you mean by "Interlining fusing," I don't know how popular they are in high end bespoke.
    What I saw was a fusing cover the whole lapel, ahhhhh :brick:
     
  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I would be pissed if there was fusing anywhere in my tailored garments. This would go double for that Breanish cloth. Using fusing on it would take away it's charm.
     
  10. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I am not joking. Usually heavier fabrics e.g. tweed, flannels, corduroy will not need it and have the body to be tailored. However, I believe lighter fabrics e.g. fresco or other under 9oz stuff will be beneficial to have the interfusing inserted.

    Don't confused with general chest fusing and interlining fusing, the former is bad but the latter merely utilize the cloth. Using interlining does not mean the hand padded or zig-zag machined canvass will be taken away.

    In terms of its popularity, if you look careful enough, I am sure one will be able to find examples on the famous websites.

    The reason for using interlining fusing will keep the chest of the jacket in shape, it also makes handwork possible to do. I have a coat make without the interlining fusing and the chest 'sacks' after a short period of time.
     
  11. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Hmm. I will have to ask again to be certain. I once asked my cutter (from one of the big SR firms) if there was fusing in the collar of one of my suits b/c it was very flat. He told me that it was just over pressed, but looked at me as if I had kicked him, his dog, and his whole family in the teeth, then told me that they do not use fusing anywhere.

    Now I'm sure he doesn't actually do the tailoring, because he told me so. But I doubt he would get this detail incorrect.
     
  12. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    I recall there is a post in Jefferyd's blog shows some fusing in a hi-end bespoke jacket...My understanding is that it is very possible some tailors use fusing in un-noticed parts, eg pockets, to save time. It completely depends on the integrity of the tailor, as very few of clients actually check the inside work.
     
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Haha seriously it is normal and does not mean a coat is inferior because interlining fusing is used. Sometimes the fabrics just call for one, especially if you are looking for a clean not over 'floaty' chest.

    The 'sackiness' of the chest really shows when hang on the hanger. The sackiness will be gone if it is cut very close and lean to your body.
     
  14. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    I'm going to rip open one of my garments tonight to make sure. ;)
     
  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Those fusing can be done via a)pure fusing or b)interlining fusing with canvass or c)pure canvass

    Option b and c are ok.

    That's how I understand it.
     
  16. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    These last few posts here are painful... I have no idea what add911_11 is talking about, fusing is an interlining... and pretty much all fused suits still have some sort of floating canvas in the chest area...

    Fusing will be used on high end garments on the finer cloths, in key areas, like ends of collars and lapels, just like on a shirt, to achieve a crisper finish. It just simply produces a cleaner garment, the fronts and most other places will remain unfused, but with ultra fine/light cloths, you will achieve a better results with small lightweight fusing being used in key areas. If it wasn't used on say a 7oz super 180s you are more than likely going to see pucker/bubbling in certain places.

    The problem is when some tailors skin/fuse the fronts of the lightweight cloth, and then fully canvas it. The fusing of the fronts is unneeded, it just helps unskilled tailors deal with the fine, lightweight cloths, as it makes the cloth heavier, gives it more body/stiffness. I'd avoid these tailors.
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is possible this black fabric is fusing but it could be pocketing material. We sometimes put a piece of pocketing cut on the bias between the cloth and the hymo to add body to the lapel.

    Is this tailor left handed?
     
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    You do realize there is discrepancy in your post?

    I can add some picture to explain my point but I am afraid to do so, as this may break the iGent myth.
     
  19. tcbrgs

    tcbrgs Senior member

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    What discrepancy?
     
  20. C&A

    C&A Senior member

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    I have just sent him en email asking what the black material actually is.

    Come and think of it, I never paid any attention to whether he was right or left handed. Is there something in the way he has cut the cloth that makes you think he is left handed ?
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2013

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