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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Btw, anyone know what's up with the Butt of Lewis shop? They've been closed for quite a few months now.
     
  2. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    +1. I was told that it is a nightmare to tailor since it stretches so easily. Was also told the same thing about some of the spongier LL cloths (the brown houndstooth being a good example).
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    The S-G of tweeds?
     
  4. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    One English tailor I used refused to work with Breanish and sent back the two lengths I gave him. I had them made by another tailor and was told it was very difficult to work with - spongy and stretchy and hard to shape (and get to hold shape). That said, I love the two Breanish sport coats I have. They are the only tweed that do well in warmer weather and are super comfy. That said, it is not a crisp look.
    I would love to get another, as in that big glen check, for example. I am concerned if people are reporting a drop in quality - the lengths I had were bought about five years ago and from old stock (the burgundy/brown, for example, is supposedly no longer makable because the EU banned the dye http://www.styleforum.net/t/53633/working-with-breanish-tweed/0_50#post_830667). I suppose I should find someone who carries the current runs to see if the quality seems the same.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2013
    2 people like this.
  5. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Jesus, what the hell is in the dye that they banned it? If you have a clipping a dyehouse should be able to match it.

    New liability from Marling & Evans:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013
  6. naviC

    naviC Active Member

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    Was looking to get a few lengths too.... Is that a lambswool/silk/nylon mix? wanted to know how that would wear in comparison to just a pure lambswool
     
  7. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Good Christ no synthetics here! 100% wool love. I think wool/silk mixes are for hotter climates but I've no experience with them myself.
     
  8. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I'm a fan of Breanish but just have two jackets, gray herringbone and the T4 special. The gray herringbone is certainly soft, light, and sweater-like. It pills a little, but I wouldn't trade it for a Harris or W Bill's tweed, which I have and enjoy. The T4 one feels a bit harder, heavier, and scratchier than the gray one. This is not to say I dislike it either. But it is a little more Harris tweed-like than the usual Breanish, perhaps because the wool is unbleached and undyed. No pilling or evidence of it coming.

    FWIW, Patrick Chu of Chan loves Breanish and has told me he doesn't think it's hard to work with at all. But he may be more used to "squirrelly" fabrics, as Chan tends to make a lot out of the lightweight Italian stuff that is vilified on the internet.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2013
  9. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    What's the fabric number for this? Is it on their web site?
     
  10. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Can someone pls id this - Moonbeam? Lamlana?

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice-looking jacket all round. Italian?
     
  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    A Polish tailor named Zaremba. He has quite a nice Tumblr.
     
  13. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Marling & Evans Q0767 13088/C3 390g/m

    Nope, as I do not believe it is being re-woven.
     
  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Indeed. Unfortunately, while his work looks Italian, so does the fit on several of his clients.

    Interesting use of ticket pockets on open-patch pocket jackets.
     
  15. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Yup, I agree. Pretty on the mannequins though.
     
  16. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    That looks very interesting. What does M&E charge per yard these days?
     
  17. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Its very reasonable but I'm not sure what the protocol is with putting prices online so I've PMed you.
     
  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I would also be interested in learning the origin of this fabric. I know it's not Moonbeam - maybe Del Fino?

    Anyone know?
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2013
  19. naviC

    naviC Active Member

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    I made an earlier post about using some frescos for an odd jacket... the patterns didn't really work out but I really am quite keen to get something that would hold a good crease and not crumple easily for a 'travel-blazer-suit'.

    [​IMG]

    How would you think the 0546 look as an odd jacket, or would it look too much like a suit jacket? I suppose the weight at 310gms would be appropriate for the summer tropical humid countries I'm visiting...
     
  20. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Why not use the 520 or the 516?

    Those would make much better blazer suits.
     
    1 person likes this.

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