Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Probably 10-20 pounds difference per meter depending whom you buy it from.
     


  2. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    I presume we are comparing Crispaire to Frontier?

    I have several suits made from Crispaire.These were made years ago when the book was known as Crispaire Fresco and contained a few Mohair and heavyweight Fresco suiting. Not sure what the new stuff is like even though my tailor has the current, or what looks the soon to be replaced current book.

    I don't notice much difference between the Frontier and Crispaire in terms of performance in hot weather to be honest. Nice patterns and colours in both.

    Fresco cloths are only really beneficial, heat wise if there is a breeze blowing. If not you are stuffed. Good wrinkle resistance though.

    Its difficult to find wool suiting that do everything well in hot weather. There's always a compromise



    Frontier is a plain weave cloth which is best for a summer.

    Plain weaves tend to look best in pattered cloths not plains. Plains aren't really attractive.

    My tailor thinks its good cloth, as far as plain weaves go. Makes up well. I have several of them. All stripes. I may try one of the POW's next summer.



    Have all those Crispaire's made the final cut?
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013


  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    It's not bad cloth, but two tailors I've spoken to believe that if one is paying a few thousand pounds to have a suit made up, there are better alternatives. How do you like Frontier when it's made up, and over time? Is it 'limp' or is there a nice 'spring' in the cloth?
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013


  4. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    It performs well, shreds wrinkles

    Bear in mind these are suits I wear only occasionally in the summer months. Never in Autumn/Winter. So the they don't receive a lot of hammer.

    I see them as late Spring/Summer cloths and accept the compromise in terms of lux.
     


  5. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    I was looking at the book in part because, in a thread at LL, Frank Shattuck had said very good things about it.
     


  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Maybe it's exceptional cloth, but based on my limited experience with two tailors, in my opinion, it's not superlative. It sheds wrinkles well for a cloth its weight, that is true, but tbh, I find the cloth looks limp. But that has just been my experience. Frank thinks Dugdale is very good cloth too, and he doesn't like H & S for the most part -- but it's up to you whom you choose to believe.

    That said, I must stress that it's not bad cloth, but I think there are other fabrics that, IMHO, make up better. For instance, the 4-ply Smiths Finnmeresco I had made up, wears equally cool, and looks marvelous made up.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013


  7. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Have your tailor get you some samples.
     


  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yes. Have you tailor send you samples, and ask him about his opinion on the fabric, and if that's what he'd recommend.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013


  9. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Shattuck blows with the wind.

    I'd take anything he says with a pinch of salt.
     


  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    :)
     


  11. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I strongly dislike Frontier. Maybe I just got a bad length but it had a spongey stretchy quality to it that I found very unappealing, it didnt drape well as a result.
     


  12. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    I see it now that I am not on my phone. It looks like the suiting fabric is 9.5 oz. Most seem to consider this a fall weight, at least for the Minnis Frescos.
     


  13. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    That has been my (limited) experience. No body and poor drape, and limp stuff.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2013


  14. Knox

    Knox Senior member

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    Minnis Rangoon:

    Any lucky soul who has extra to spare?
     


  15. mrmax

    mrmax Senior member

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    Gents I have a large lot of Scabal Toison D'or at very keen pricing. PM for the stock list and to be added to the regular mailing list. (Dormeuil, Scabal, H&S etc)

    One example (25m available at the moment)

    [​IMG]

    Fabric : 751545
    Dark Grey
    Bunch : Toison d'or (C1981)
    Composition : 100% Wool
    Scabal
    Weave : Hopsack
    Design : Glen check
    Weight : 260 G
    Width : 150 CM
    Wool specifics : SUPER 150'S
    Fabric available
    Weight category : medium (260-320gr)
    Seasonality : Four Seasons
    Cloth label : SCABAL SUPER 150'S
    Selvedge : * SCABAL * SUPER 150'S
     


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