Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    How are you having it made up? Or is it all open ended at this point?
     


  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    A knee length style pea coat with a belt in the back. Something along those lines.
     


  3. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    I've only ever used their Tonik cloth and that was a long time ago.

    Imagine a more urbane Scabal and that's Dormeuil.

    They sell good cloths, a lot of it is milled in England.

    They are a good resource for unusual/fancy patterns that you won't find in the more conventional merchants like Minnis, Lessers etc.who specialise in business and traditional cloths.

    They are expensive.
     


  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    The Dormeuil Tonik is really good stuff. That much is certain. Rich depth of colour, wrinkle-resistant, and based on my tailor's input, will make up well. But like Dopey said, it's luxe cloth, and expensive. But it's sufficiently different from the matte numbers you'll have from present Minnis, Lesser, and H & S offerings. I've perused the H & S mohair-wool fabrics and came away even happier with my purchase.

    This cloth definitely does not exude the old-world vibe that you get with Lesser or Smiths, however.

    Go check out the book and let us know your opinion. I skipped the lightweight stuff at the beginning of the book and jumped straight to the Tonik 2000 that are 10.5 oz. Tonik is 10.

    Etkl has had much experience with it and had good things to say.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013


  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    The Sportex range also has a few nice pieces but last I saw, that range seems to have been discontinued.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013


  6. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    10oz?

    My Tonik was quite a bit heavier than that and was bullet proof.
     


  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yes. It's been modernised. It's lighter and smoother to boot. Less 'open weave' like the older stuff were as well. Do you think the original Tonik would have been formal enough for a dinner suit, given the weave?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013


  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I hate that the options for good heavy fabric and decreasing. It seems like there is this overwhelming abundance of 9-10oz fabrics out there. Kinda wimpy.
     


  9. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    I don't see why not.
     


  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I will write about this more later in the context of some stuff I saw at Pitti, but an important consideration for a dinner suit is how much contrast you want between the facings and the rest of the jacket. Obviously a mohair has some sheen to it, so the lapels don't stand out as much. On the other hand, all of you is a little more shiny. A more matte fabric will highlight the facings more.

    I wouldn't worry about formality too much in the context of a dinner suit. If you've got the facings and are wearing the black bow tie, people get it. Black tie is not meant to be a very restrictive dress code, and is meant to have a relaxing-with-friends air to it rather than a "formal" one IMHO.
     


  11. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Well if you like heavier cloth you like it.

    A lot of the lighter, modern cloth tailor as well, if not better than a lot of the heavier stuff of yesteryear. Better looms, more advanced finishing.

    Lessers still do 16oz. The chalksripes in that book are great. Makes for a great old skool city of London look.

    Dugdale still have 14oz cloths

    Bateman & Ogden still have 140z cloths.

    Harrisons have an18oz and above book called Universal, but some of those cloths have a poor hand.

    So, it hasn't quite died out yet.
     


  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    You went to Pitti? What's the take on opera pumps over in the States?

    I've been taken by these two DJ, particularly the shawl collar. Though I'm aware it might not be everybody's thing.

    The first picture looks like it's probably mohair. Going to check out Smiths.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013


  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Yea I'd guess that first one is mohair. Second of Bogie is from Sabrina?
     


  14. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Dugdale's have a great broad grey herringbone. Perhaps a bit light for your taste, though.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2013


  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    And yea I went to Pitti - I think articles are still up on the front page, but just search for Isaia and Begg and you'll see those. Also an interview with NsM. Just look in my 'threads started' page if you want to read them.

    Regarding opera pumps, I love them, but I'm weird. I have two pairs of black belgians (one velvet, one patent) with grosgrain bows that I wear at night. I doubt you see them very often at black tie affairs. And would probably be remarked upon if worn. The 'State of Black Tie' thread will give you some data.
     


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