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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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  2. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Plus a center pleat which is not visible in the picture.
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Nice
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    New suit made with vintage '70s/'80s mohair and Dupioni silk blend fabric by John H.Graham of England:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
    2 people like this.
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    No doubt LK is one of the inspirational member in the forum. Absolutely in love with the fabric.
     
  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Any suggestions for a camel hair in a lighter shade?
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I have a W. Bill camel hair Ulster and am very happy w/ it. They have a fairly comprehensive range of colors / shades.
     
  8. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Harrisons has some lighter shades in a camel hair/wool blend too. But W Bill has quite an extensive collection in varying shades.

    There's another lesser known Scottish weaver who weaves overcoat fabrics and I distinctly recall seeing lighter shades in camel colour. Isn't one of those large merchants, but produces very good stuff nonetheless, and there are cards of swatches at quite a number of good English tailors. Reasonably priced too. Name eludes me now, but I'll update when it comes back.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Anybody has any idea whom might have woven this fabric? Or what accounts for the slubby texture?

    Looks like linen?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Looks like a mixture of linen and silk to me.And I know Drapers has a book that has something similar
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Looks diseased. I suggest rubbing Accutane all over that coat.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
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  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Thanks.


    Now that you've mentioned it ... what with all the red dots.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
  13. obama

    obama Well-Known Member

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    Hi Fishball, since I am also in Hong Kong and admire the stiffer English fabric, which maintain the shape better, could you advise the weight of jacketing you recommend for 4 seasons in Hong Kong? I am trying to go for nicer fabric that will not melt me in aummer. Thanks.
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I believe thats a bad idea. It is better to have a fresco weave from JJ Minnis or Smith Woolens for the Spring/Summer, and a good flannel or heavy wool worsted for Autumn/Winter.

    It is good to have stuff specific for the season, rather than looking for 3 season fabrics. They are usually not cool enough for HK's summer, and too thin and breathable for HK's winter.

    However, I must say that heavy fabrics have limited usage in Hong Kong, but it does not mean you don't need it.
     
  15. obama

    obama Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your advice 911.

    May I ask specially what is the weight you are wearing for 4 seasons?
    Summer: 8-9oz fresco?
    Winter; ?? Oz flannel 9or ?? Oz worsted wool? Maybe?
    Spring/ autumn: ??

    Sorry I am completely noob and just want to have a starting point.

    Thanks
     
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In the summer here in NYC I wear 8/9 and 10oz Fresco. I have some 8oz plain weave as well. I have a few 4 season suits that are in the 11-12oz range. The winter I wear things over 14oz.
     
  17. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Summer: Under 9oz. (Fresco, Lesser Super Tropical, Rangoon, Linen)

    Early Summer / Winter, Spring / Fall: 11oz.- 13oz. (Lesser, Blue Riband, Botany, Dugdale Royal Classic)

    Winter: Mainly flannels and saxonys (13oz. and above - Fox, Marling & Evans, Minnis). A lot of tweed sportcoats.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
    3 people like this.
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    In Hong Kong, I believe one should have suitings for the really hot days in the summer and the windy breezy weather in the winter.

    I prefer kid mohair mix and fresco 9-10oz for summer, and stuff like English town classics and heavy flannel for winter.

    Above by ET sums up very nicely. You may also get a mid weight overcoat.
     
  19. obama

    obama Well-Known Member

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    Yes they are very useful. Thanks much!
     
  20. Kai

    Kai Senior member

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    Thinking of making this fabric into a suit.

    2 piece. Unlined, soft shouldered/unconstructed. Sort of a casual vibe.

    What thinks the collective? I was originally thinking of something lighter, more in a tan, but this brown is attractive. Would it go well in a suit of the type I am describing?


    [​IMG]
     

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