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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I don't really make over-the-top special requests, definitely not on the first order, but what I do like to know is, for instance, what the tailor thinks the ideal length of the coat should be, lapel width, or even the 'general' silhouette that they'll cut for me on my coat. And on DBs, the amount of overlap for instance. More certainty that way.

    I don't mean just at the first consultation though, but throughout the ordering process (inclusive of the various fittings). I don't really talk about technical stuff. More like I like to know what are the styling details that are the default, and what I'd want differently. For instance, I know English tailors typically make patch pockets that don't have very rounded edges, and I'd specify that I prefer patch pockets with more rounded edges. Or more belly on the lapels etc.

    Do people not make these sorts of stylistic requests?

    But you're quite right that specifying too much can be a huge disaster (especially when picking up stuff online), and I've typically reminded myself to take my hands-off and let them do their thing.

    English patch pockets:

    http://www.styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/819560/[img][/SPOILER]

    Italian's:

    [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][img]http://cdn.styleforum.net/1/1a/1a189732_6244894032_78f5afb28d_z.jpeg[img][/SPOILER]
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting. On your jacket, the breast pocket seems to be floating off in space, but on the other Steeds I've seen, the corner just touches the lapel.
     
  3. forex

    forex Senior member

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    This is by default, all mine are placed farther away and don't cross with the lapel. You could almost say that the placement is lower.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's partly that my PS has fallen to the outer extremity of the pocket, but the pocket is farther out than other coats I have.
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    But also the Steed lapel roll is higher than, for instance, the NsM coats I have, which are more a pure 3r2. So the breast pocket may look farther out for this reason also.
     
  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Maybe he was trying to match the patterns. I've seen a few in the wild, in plain fabrics, and I recall the pockets placed closer.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On the silhouette, I try to do enough research on the firm ahead of time that I have a pretty good idea how their jackets are shaped. Length, DB overlap buttoning point, lapel height, etc., can be adjusted at fitting. But if I want something much different, I just go to a different tailor.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Last edited: May 23, 2013
  9. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Have put the cart before the horse by buying these fabrics before asking about them, but if anybody has experience with Dormeuil Amadeus' Jacketing range, input would be appreciated.It matters because I'll give it to a different tailor depending on how it'll make up. I find it near impossible to find brighter shades and more defined checks from HFW, Lesser, Harrison's etc at the sweet 10-11 oz spot, and so turned to Dormeuil for jacketing.

    Bought jacketing lengths of these today:

    1)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    2)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    3)

    [​IMG]

    4)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  10. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    No personal experience - would be interested in what othr people have to say. May I ask your source?
     
  11. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    First two are not bad, last three look like suiting to me.
     
  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    The last is the same as the fourth, though it appears different.

    The third looks like this below, except as opposed to the brown being woven against a white background, it's woven against navy.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  13. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I'd have to silence you if I told you. :rotflmao:

    JK. You can buy them from Dormeuil, though I only do CMT when visiting tailors who are not likely to have the fabrics I want. I'm going to HK in June so I'm probably going to bring these there to have a tailor make it up, or I'll have Mina make them up. I purchase them from all over -- from friends, and mostly from tailors who get preferential trade prices.

    Link to catalogue here -- http://www.dormeuil.com/en/cloth-collection/detailed-collection/best-sellers/amadeus-jacketings/

    *There's smth seriously wrong with this forum. I type catalogue and it tells me it's a spelling error and that the correct spelling should be 'catalog'. Bah!
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2013
  14. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Thanks - silence can be golden....

    I do almost all CMT with my local tailor as well so am always looking for potential sources of good fabric.
     
  15. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    These look great:

    440011

    [​IMG]

    440020

    [​IMG]
     
  16. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    This.
     
  17. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    One more piece of pre-Harrsions H. Lesser tropical worsted left for sale. Please see my sig.
     
  18. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Is there a tangible difference in the pre and post Harrison tropicals?
     
  19. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    In my experience, no.
     
  20. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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