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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. mkarim

    mkarim Senior member

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    ...and the material is sub par. No matter how much you iron them they look bad and unprofessional.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2013
  2. Alvinbmx

    Alvinbmx Senior member

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    Yeah. Very true.

    I had a quick check of the prices for the Ascona and I find it a little overpriced. It cost more than wool from a reputable English mill.

    Another option would be Mersolair. Fabric feels quite good and thickness is quite decent, not too thin.

    However, I ordered some Brisbanemoss Keats to compare. I will update again when I received them.
     
  3. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Nice feeling heavy cotton is expensive. Mersolair is very thin and smooth for my tastes - the lack of texture reminds me of some no-iron Dockers I once bought. Brisbane Moss is at the other extreme - rough and unfinished, like something used in uniforms (have tried Keats and Rye, a cavalry twill). I've had good experience with Holland & Sherry but unfortunately it's priced like Scabal.
     
  4. Alvinbmx

    Alvinbmx Senior member

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    So you don't recommend Keats? Do you mind sharing some pictures of it? And how does it feel when worn?

    By the way, which bunch of H&S?
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  5. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Sorry, don't have any pics of the Keats. It just wasn't for me. A little too rough and stiff, kind of like the polar opposite of a velvety moleskin. My ideal cotton trousering cloth is in between those extremes - heavyish and with dry surface interest (not hairy, not smooth), but soft to the touch.

    FYI, one thing to note about Brisbane Moss is that they quote cloth weights per square meter, as opposed to running meter of 140-150 cm width. Therefore if you want to compare to cloth from other mills, you will want to multiply the quoted weight by 1.4 - 1.5.

    The H&S bunch is called Cotton Classics, and has a wide range of weaves and weights (8 oz - 16 oz IIRC).
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  6. deelee

    deelee Member

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    I second johanm's opinion on the Keats. Would be too tough a cloth for trousering for me as well. Not sure if you've got the swatch, but these are the ones I've received previously. Hopefully helps with showing the true colours.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Alvinbmx

    Alvinbmx Senior member

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    Alright, i will surely check out the Cotton Classics.

    Thanks for showing the swatches! Unfortunately, i have already ordered them so i shall see how it turn out in actual. I ordered the beige and navy. From your pic, the beige looks a little greenish so i might just make a pair of trouser with the navy to see how it turn out.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  8. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    cloth for trench coat :Do you guys have any recommendation for cloth for trench coat (or kind of rain coat, to use during spring and autumn) ?
     
  9. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Might be a dumb idea but I don;t like the look of most trench coats so I bought some covert coat fabric which I intnd to have made up into a simple mac style ovecoat without any of extras that go with a regular covert coat. I plan to get either no or minimal interlining to keep it comfortable in spring and fall and am hoping that the covert fabric keeps out the occasional mist/light rain.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013
  10. deelee

    deelee Member

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    Been seeing a lot of British Ventile fabric being made up into macs. Touted to bebreathable and weatherproof. Have handled and tried on quite a few including this from SEH Kelly and am quite satisfied with the material, although I didn't purchase as I'm not in the market for a trench :D. Not sure if Ventile sells the cloth by the yard though! You can however check out the various colours available on their site.
     
  11. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Ventile do sell their cloth by the metre, the regular range for civilian wear is L24. Make sure if having it made up that your tailor will make double lapped felled seams, i.e. not plain overlock. A double lapped felled seam is like the seam on the inside leg of a regular pair of jeans where the raw edge of the cloth is folded over, pressed and then sewn inside a fold of the corresponding raw edge. http://www.ventile.co.uk/specification.php
     
  12. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Poasted this in the OneShirt thread but for any chambray fanboys who have avoided the latest Foo trainwreck--


    Got the swatches from Chapman. I tried to take some photos which would show the cloth a bit better. I believe I failed.

    Here is the texture
    [​IMG]

    Each of the blue swatches (because, seriously, orange chambray...) The colors are pretty accurate.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here's the large swatch held up to the light to show the porosity.

    [​IMG]

    I crumpled it in my hand and the wrinkle resistance is how you say? No so good.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Texture is interesting but wrinkles like linen
     
  14. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Something like £5/m so really cheap
     
  16. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    Does anyone know if Drapers sell fabric direct to the public, and if they do, have any contact details and/or a website address for them? I'm interested in buying some of their fabrics but can't find any info through an Internet search.

    Dib
     
  17. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    I dont think so though I may be wrong.
     
  18. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    it's 5.50 GBP + 25% (for shorter lengths) + 20% VAT on top of that = 8-10 GBP. Which is still cheap. Slightly cheaper than Acorn.
     
  19. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Quote:No surcharge for cut lengths in the U.S. (nor any VAT). Booyah!
     
  20. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Bah! You sure you didn't buy like a whole roll or something? :D How much was int'l shipping, though? Sometimes, cloth merchants charge ridiculous amounts for shipping -- but I'm guessing that in this case, it's probably reasonable.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013

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