Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I have never seen anything like the S&G winter chambray anywhere else. The voiles, however, are a bit different than other voiles but not radically so.
     


  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    I always assumed that was a function of their not having access to a proper (not voile) chambray.



    You obviously know my opinion.

    In terms of other options, Thomas Mason has (or at least used to have) a blue voile which is fantastic. Light but not really see-through and a great color / finish.
     


  3. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,595
    Likes Received:
    380
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    Compared to the TM 140s and the 200-count Alumos, the SG voiles are much less substantial, but have a softer hand. Even with the really high thread count, the Alumos have a hard-feeling hand to them. I don't know how to describe it other than it's the tactile equivalent of a hard shine. Very smooth, but a little off-putting in its glossiness. The TM is halfway between the Alumos and the SGs. For me, I won't be getting any more Alumo shirts in the future, and it will mainly be TM 140s for the normal stuff.

    I don't think the SG chambrays are comparable to anything else. They are pretty unique in their hand.
     


  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,084
    Likes Received:
    762
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I agree that the SG chambrays are not comparable to any other cloth I have seen. But I think their uniqueness is in the mottled color and texture rather than the hand.
     


  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,321
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Cantabrigian -- you'd say you washed your chambray pretty much the same way as you do your other shirts, without these problems appearing on the rest, correct?

    Thanks AY (and Manton), I know what you mean vis-a-vis the Alumo.

    Have heard that the mottling on the SG chambray is one-of-a-kind which piqued my interest.
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2013


  6. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,840
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    I'm uncharacteristically careful with shirts. Washed at home - warm, not hot water / air dry / hand pressed.

    Shirts I've worn 50 times only show wear at the edge of the cuffs.
     


  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    306
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Fwiw, I've washed my SG chambray shirt well over a dozen times and never had any issues. Love the cloth.
     


  8. P. Bateman

    P. Bateman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Likes Received:
    393
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Hello,

    Does anyone know where I can source pique cotton fabric, preferably in heather colors? For example:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2013


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,365
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC


  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,365
    Likes Received:
    320
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    

    I guess Mike never learned much about fabric from his relatives. Both Chris of Chris-Arto(who passed many years ago) and Angelo of andros are in the textile business.

    a chambray is a weave. there are chambray voiles.... American Sember used to have a beautiful one. I think they still have a few odd shades left.

    I posted somewhere two swatches a chambray and a pinpoint and described the difference.

    I have never seen the S-G dress shirt chambray. I can not comment on construction or quality.
     


  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    12,046
    Likes Received:
    585
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    

    can you pm me his contact details / email?
     


  12. P. Bateman

    P. Bateman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Likes Received:
    393
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco
    

    Excellent! I PM'd you.
     


  13. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,396
    Likes Received:
    368
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2007
    Trying to decide on my next suit from Frank. Have five thus far:

    - grey woolen flannel 14oz (harrisons)
    - mid grey fresco 10/11oz (minnis)
    - navy birdseye 11/12oz (harrisons premier cru)
    - RAF plain blue 9/10oz (lesser)
    - navy herringbone 13oz (lesser)

    I am thinking about doing a blue linen and a khaki cotton suit for the summer but would like to get in one more before then. Probably something sub 11oz that is more office appropriate than the linen and the khaki cotton. Any thoughts? Was flirting with a POW maybe from minnis fresco or lesser tropical. How is the lesser tropical book? Any others worth thumbing through?
     


  14. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    306
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Axel,

    I think you need a mid-grey pick-and-pick - it'll look quite different than they grey fresco you have.

    If you'd like something patterned, go with a POW in a darker shade of grey. Save the linen / contton suits for your 10th, or even 15th, suit.

    ET
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,814
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Since I don't like birdseye, don't get the birdseye.

    Personally, I wear cotton and linen to the office in summer.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by