Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, she's always been incredibly flexible with requests I've come up with. But there are times when the talent in the back room just won't deliver on, or understand a request. Sounds like there's some room to experiment.
     


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Looking at some birdseye up close,
    [​IMG]

    It seems like you can only get that sort of pattern by occasionally going over two warp yarns at a time.

    Which I don't think you'd be able to do and maintain a high twist.


    Of the easily Googleable images for birdseye pattern, this looks to me most like what you see on the suiting-
    [​IMG]
    and it appears to show that you'd alternatively go over two yarns / threads on a few of the lines.

    And when was the last time that deependoftheloom.blogspot steered you wrong?


    At any rate, I'll be interested to hear what Minnis have to say.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013


  4. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Closer...

    [​IMG]

    :)
     


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Isn't the difference this, birdseye is a round pattern and nailhead a jagged less rounded design? This looks like a nailhead pattern. Are there examples of both?
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013


  6. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    What book are these from?
     


  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I thought this was nailhead-
    [​IMG]

    But maybe that's wrong.

    At any rate, the weave above seems like it could be easily done as a simple over/under/over/under
    which I'm guessing- maybe also wrongly - that you need in order to maintain a high twist.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013


  8. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    The one I posted, is this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What you call nailhead I call pin dot but I don't how correct that is.

    High twist relates to the yarn not the weave. Two threads are twisted together to make a 2 ply yarn. There are formulas of how much you can twist the threads and when you exceed those formula amounts and twist the threads beyond that point it is called high twist. It adds spring and makes the cloth more resilient. That's how it has been explained to me.
     


  10. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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  11. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I was under the impression that nailhead was a different pattern and weave altogether--more square looking, vs the rounded look of birdseye. I would have called NOBD's examples birdseye for sure. Can't see Cantabrigian's example closely enough, but looks like a totally different weave, and what I would have called nailhead.

    Now I'm just confused :(
     


  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    NOBD is birdseye

    Nailhead gives an impression of square grid (horizontal & vertical) rather than round eyes in a diagonal fashion like birdseye. IIRC, the fresco that Manton posted in the past was nailhead
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013


  13. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Update on the custom runs; selecting a shade of blue from samples to replace black in fresco 0510, the overcheck will be removed (apologies to those that are hoping for it), 3-ply is ruled out based on opinions of this forum, still a question of weight for the 2-ply, either 8-9 or 10-11 (experienced fresco wearers please feel free to comment on the day-to-day difference)

    Nailhead fresco is possible and under consideration to be done after the AFB POW, grey shade will be either 0500 or 0501

    Things are looking promising, will keep the updates coming, please keep the comments and suggestions coming
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There's no 3ply in 8/9? In any event I am all for 8/9.
     


  15. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I would go with 8/9 oz, I think 10/11 oz is much too heavy for warmer months. Are you making AFB first and then the gray one?
     


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