Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    and It's been said you are never wrong!
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2012


  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is this in Italy, or does Panico travel? Was there a time that Mina used him at NsM?
     


  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    He may travel to Rome, but I'm certain he doesn't travel to the U.S.

    Mina used Volpe, not Panico.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


  4. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    According to T4Phage in the NSM thread, she initially repped Panico in the states, then moved to Volpe.
     


  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    For those who used Volpe, Panico and NSM, what are the major differences among the three? I assume Mina used to put her own twist on all garments?
     


  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Yes, but that was independent of the NSM operation - NSM initially had its garments made by Volpe.
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Panico is pretty expensive, especially for Naples. He's on another level than ... well than most of the others.
     


  8. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like the look of his lapels-- NsM's tend to be too high and wide to be really classic. Although perhaps that could be negotiated in a repeat order. Mina is uncommonly eager to please even her American clients who don't understand Naples.
     


  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think NsM's lapels are really that wide. Def not approaching Nutter proportions. But if you want them skinnier you can def ask for that. As for gorge height, Mina double checks height with me on pretty much every commission.
     


  10. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I was under the same impression too until I received my finished coats, she made my lapels 9 cm which is basically 3.5" whereas I wanted closer to 4". She did ask about height of lapel notch, I will go for 9.5 cm lapel width and slightly lower notch on future stuff.
     


  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good to know. It appears that their default setting for notches is about an inch above the collarbone, while the jackets that look best to me have it sit right on the collarbone.
     


  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also, has anyone been able to get them to line a jacket completely? Their partial-lining may be great for summer sport coats, but it makes flannels and tweed stick to your shirt in weird ways.
     


  13. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Also think that NSM cuts a different lapel angle, if you know what I mean, that could make the lapels look higher. I actually like the lapel angle of Panico's stuff, it looks much much better.
     


  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Yes, some of mine are lined since I asked for it. They don't attach the lining at the bottom hem because they feel that it always ends up sagging and killing the line of the back hem with wear - and they're probably right on that.
     


  15. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Just ask her to line the jacket (or shorten the gorge, narrow the lapels etc.) You make it sound like she's intransigent, which has never been my experience.

    At my request, most of my NSM coats are completely lined, have a lower buttoning point / narrower lapels on DBs than her default style.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


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