Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Hi Guys,

    I will be having some trousers made up in a "jean style" with U-shaped front pockets and back patch pockets. They won't be able to have the rivets, but will still retain a casual feel.

    I'm curious what fabrics people would recommend in heavyweight, sturdy cotton that would work well in this style. A heavyweight canvas or cavalry twill comes to mind.

    I very much like the fabrics of Brisbane Moss, but they don't seem to have much above 320 grams. I'm thinking more 450 - 500 grams.
     
  2. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    Not saying this is a bad idea by any means but why not go for actual jeans?
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Cacciopolli Napoli has a selection called "Winter Cottons" which I think would work well for this.
     
  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    drill
     
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Most jeans in general don't have a high rise and too slim. If you know of a maker of various shards of brown with a high rise and fuller leg I'm all ears.

    I kind of have to need to make fabric decisions by Christmas so Doif anything with Naples might be tricky.

    Who makes good quality heavy drill these days?
     
  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Drapers has good drill and it's everywhere. H&S also good
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Moleskin would be a good option as well, albeit a bit heavy. Though, I do think tailored pants in such a style would look a little weird.

    Take a look at Grown & Sewn's KAX pants - a denim / khaki hybrid. Cut higher and not that slim.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  8. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    It does seem like a bit of a waste to bespeak such a casual pant. Have you looked at Cordings? Wide variety of moleskins, cords even jeans. Rise is very high but leg is pretty pegged - tapers to the bottom. I think it's a pretty flattering cut on me and I have the same rise issue with most jeans.
     
  9. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    +1, nice stuff in that book
     
  10. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    Levi's meatpacking district will custom make jeans however you want them, and some of the LVC from earlier years are both quite high-waisted and full through the leg.
     
  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I'm not sure if they come in various shades of brown, but you can look into Levis Vintage Clothing's 1947 501 cut, and others like it (3Sixteen just came out with a somewhat similar cut).

    Though, I think these are two completely different projects - a pair of jeans with a slightly higher rise and fuller cut, and then casual cotton drill pants made with jean pockets.
     
  12. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Really? Any idea what that costs?
     
  13. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    It's a bit ridiculous. Something around $600. But it also really is worth trying on some of the other LVC cuts. There's alot of variation. All the cuts prior to 1960's are reasonably high waisted, and the Cone mills denim is nice.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  14. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Ah, okay, thanks. I'm not a jeans freak, so I'll stick with RTW. :lol:
     
  15. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Still cheaper than 3x1's "bespoke" denim that starts at $1,200!!
     

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