Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,503
    Likes Received:
    545
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    Thanks guys!

    KJ - look at the Donegals from W. Bill and Molloy if you can. Good stuff.
     
  2. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,190
    Likes Received:
    89
    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2009
    Can anyone recommend a good waterproof fabric for making into a trench coat?
     
  3. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    305
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Molloy + Sons has some great navy donegals. Priced reasonably as well.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    

    Eustace, where do you see swatches of the donegals?
     
  5. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,057
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2010
    Location:
    Oxon, UK
    

    Bookster has some. Molloy also has a Flickr gallery with stock tweeds.
     
  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Likes Received:
    227
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,839
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    The only time I've seen one done bespoke was in Corvato's shop. He said he took a regular cotton drill and Scotchguarded it.

    I asked how waterproof it was and he just shrugged his shoulders.

    Maybe the Loro Piana storm system farbics? Though I've never seen those in a book, only made up as RTW coats.

    Given that they usually have raglan sleeves, I'm not sure a trench coat is the sort of thing that really lends itself to bespoke. Certainly not at a price similar to that of a canvassed coat with set in shoulders.
     
  8. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    

    How about Ventile? It is cotton and very weatherproof. It can be purchased directly from the factory. It comes in a variety of weights and colours. It is all but waterproof when its in double form. Only drawback is that it is difficult to hand sew. It also requires a specific thread and double lapped seams. But, it will last forever, is relatively light, breathes and is also windproof.
     
  9. KayJay85

    KayJay85 Senior member

    Messages:
    210
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2009
    Location:
    London, England
    Thanks for the advice on Donegals
    I visited the respective websites and the images are limited so if anyone has a recommendation other than going to source (which I hope to do with W Bill in Jan) please do chime in
     
  10. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Likes Received:
    1,911
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    

    It is awesome stuff. I have it on a non-bespoke Invertere jacket.
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    305
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Interesting. Did you buy direct from their website? If so, what weight / color?
     
  12. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Corvato actually made a topcoat for me out of LP Storm System cashmere. It has set shoulders and looks and performs very well, especially in the rain. I got the cloth from Tip Top, which also used to carry a similar fabric from Zegna.

    Ventile is great but I've only seen it sold as stand-alone fabric a couple of times over the years.
     
  13. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    

    Barbour, Lost World and Orvis also have sold items made out of ventile. Ebay and ebay uk usually list a few ventile pieces.
     
  14. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Grenfell cloth also served much the same purpose as ventile.
     
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Likes Received:
    1,839
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    

    Looks like it comes in a nice selection of colors.

    This one could make a cool, though somewhat different, raincoat--

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2012

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by