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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    I think of half or quarter lined being useful for summer weight jackets where the cloth itself has high porosity/permeability and will let air pass through. The absence of a lining (except in the sleeves and shoulders) makes this type of jacket more comfortable for hot weather. I think of tweed as colder weather fabric as it is heavier and denser than say a fresco or linen. While not adding a lining will make the jacket cooler wearing, I'm wondering if it really makes any difference at the margin unless the fabric is very light.

    Removing the lining will also reduce the structure of the jacket to some extent. Again, a soft fabric may benefit from this and be more comfortable to wear as a result. If the tweed is not very light, this will not be as noticable.
     
  2. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    What about a lining on a 8.5 oz Fresco? It is for a summer suit, so I think it would be nice and cool, but I don't want the jacket to be see-through. I am debating going quarter or fully lined.
     
  3. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    I only have one fresco and it is dark brown. I got it lined specifically as I did not want it to be see through. I would like to get a few more in lighter colours and would consider going quarter-lined to increase breathability. However, even with lining, I find the fresco comfortable in reasonably hot weather (not exceeding 80F).
     
  4. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    I've had both fully lined and half-lined coats and thought that all my future ones would be half-lined, including any winter weights. But I did notice that on my half-lined coats made with thinner cloth I could see the edge of the lining when I hunched my shoulders forward, giving the appearance of "wings" on my back. I suppose this could be another reason to opt for fully lined coats?
     
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    For my fresco items, I find fully lined jacket and half lined trouser cool enough even for humid mid summer in Hong Kong.
    I always believe in humid hot weather, if you are going to sweat, you will no matter what you wear. For dry hot countries things may be different.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2013
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I learned the hard way: half-lined 9 oz. fresco trousers are hotter wearing than 11 oz. unlined worsted ones.
     
  7. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    So I take it you definitely recommend getting the trousers unlined. What about the jacket? Do you have any unlined 8/9 oz fresco trousers? It's bad enough if the jacket is see-through, but I can't do see-through pants
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I get everything lined even fresco in emerzine.
     
  9. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    You mean ermine?
     
  10. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    The work that goes into finishing the seams costs a bit more than another meter of lining, I imagine.
     
  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ermazine
     
  12. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    This has been my understanding as well.

    I prefer mine half or quarter lined because I tend to overheat.
     
  13. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    i bought this at the fox flannel mill a few years ago. it was a one-off piece. it's darker than donkey but it somehow combines dark greens and grays/ to produce a very pleasant heathery effect. when i look at it under some lights it almost looks dark gray, but outside in natural light it definitely looks more like dark green [​IMG]green
     
  14. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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  15. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Oh that makes sense - thought he lined everything with rodent fur and thought maybe it was a NY tailor thing.
     
  16. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    Yes - if you choose not to fund, let me know.
     
  17. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    will do. i'm on the fence right now. i love the cloth but, although i have around 12 bespoke jackets, i only have 1 bespoke suit (navy minnis air force blue flannel) and need to do at least a couple more practical and versatile suits before this, so it's a long-term unfunded liability!
     
  18. bertie

    bertie Senior member

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    I was serious but I would hang on if I was you - that is unique stuff.
     
  19. M. Charles

    M. Charles Senior member

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    i know. that's what i'm doing for the time being. i was curious to see reactions though. my sense is that this is quite rare. the people at fox indicated that.
     
  20. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    It's 10 oz worsted jacketing. When I think of unstructured, I imagine something like a Canali Kei jacket, but I have no real experience with ordering that bespoke.
     

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