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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I'm not sure what the consensus is, but I would not use suiting fabrics for an odd jacket (unless the suiting is a navy hopsack or serge and I want to have a blazer made). On the other hand, I would use jacketings to make casual suits if they are strong enough for pants. [​IMG]

    The "odd jacket" above looks like a suit jacket to me. If you want to have windowpane for an odd jacket, maybe use a colour that is not commonly seen on suits (which might just happen to be on a jacketing book), but not navy or grey.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  2. dan'l

    dan'l Senior member

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    Is that because suiting fabric is too smooth/shiny/whatever and may look a bit funny made up as an odd jacket? Or perhaps it's the generally conservative patterns and tones of suiting cloth?

    Yes, it might be part of a suit (those guys are from Ring Jacket). However, I have definitely seen sport coats from RJ in navy blue windowpane, though not up close to determine the weave (i.e. hopsack, etc.).
     
  3. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    The Steadfast navy blue hopsack made up:

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I'm still not sure myself. Spring/summer wool odd jackets are generally worsted, just like suits, but the pattern and colour is what makes them distinguishable. I guess it is a mix of both things, and maybe a navy windowpane might work as an odd jacket, but I think it would just be safer to think of it as a suit.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  5. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I may just get both. I had initially wanted to get one blue and one gray but those two are le shit.
     
  6. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks Gruto - it looks sturdy.
     
  7. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Senior member

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    Out for shopping today with my girlfriend, we visited a local weaver reseller looking for a dark blue donegal tweed. What do you think of the swatches bellow?


    [​IMG]

    jacketings


    [​IMG]

    coating
     
  8. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I like the one on the left, it will be a FU coat, no doubt.
     
  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    top right for jacket and herringbone for coat......
     
  10. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Anyone knows if Smiths makes a lighter version of this cloth.
     
  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    You can find such pattern in other big name's summer worsted book. Does it need to be Smith Woollens?
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  12. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Lighter weight? Smith has 11 and 12/13oz books in various levels of fineness.
     
  13. lachyzee

    lachyzee Senior member

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    Does anyone have any experience with Dugdale Royal Classics Navy Herringbones?

    I'm torn between the standard navy herringbone, and the "wider" navy herringbone - was hoping someone would have real life picture of something made up in either of them?

    Wider
    [​IMG]

    Standard
    [​IMG]

    Light Navy Narrow
    [​IMG]

    Hoping for a width something like this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ Does Dugdales still offer RC? I was under the imp[ression they phased it out
     
  15. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    I'm not sure you can. The Steadfast is made from a natural blend of fine and coarse wool fibers, which is not common today, as I understand. I spoke with the owner about it, when i visited their basement in London.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  16. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    Don't do it. It is too loose and soft for being a good city suiting. Choose Smith's Botany, Scabal, Lesser or some other validated workhorse fabric.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  17. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Thanks! I will check it out.



    It doesn't have to be Smith I do like the look of the Steadfast but 14/15 oz will be a bit heavy for wearing in Sydney.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2013
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    That is utter bullshit, Royal Classic is very good range of cloth in decent price.
     
  19. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    Well, it is my honest opinion based on experience. The Royal Classic is not as wellmade as Smith' Botany and Scabal's classic range. But, feel free to buy the Royal Classic.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013
  20. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Just from my own knowledge. May I ask whether you have the newer stock? because most of my RC suits are from old times (3-4 years ago), and I have been told that their new stock is pretty soft. My old stuff are pretty weighty and dense like Woollen's Bothay.

    I don't doubt the new royal classic is not as good as it is used to be.
     

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