Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Though he's wearing jeans with feet wide apart. That might contribute to the flare at the hips, but what do I know.
     


  2. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    The hip flaring is partly due to the thickness of the jeans and my stance, also I also received the jacket with no fittings and the waist do need to be let out slightly.
     


  3. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    +1: must be due to the picture.
     


  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I'm not convinced that the waist needs to be let out to correct any putative flare at the hips. It isn't an exceptionally shaped garment, and letting out the waist will result in it becoming a sack coat. I think, though, that if you have wide hips, a bit more drape/swell at the chest would be better.
     


  5. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    The shoulders are too narrow - you can see where the arm protrudes about an inch down from the shoulder seam. The hips aren't cut narrow enough as you can see from the excess fabric on the left hand side of the photo.

    The waist looks good - no pulling around the button.

    The stance and the jeans are slight distortions. If the shoulders and hips were corrected, I think it would look fine.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012


  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Getting this thread back on track -

    LL Agnelli by Lovat, and the famed Hunters of Brora tweed:


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012


  8. forex

    forex Senior member

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    This, slightly extended shoulders would help. I don't think that it can be changed at this point. I think this is something a tailor should take into account when making the garment.
     


  9. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tough crowd
     


  10. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Sorry about the crappy pic.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012


  11. fassbinder

    fassbinder Senior member

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    Eustace Tilley,

    Nice tweeds, congrats.

    How would you describe the new Hunters tweed? Is it comparable to their older tweeds before they ran into financial trouble several years ago? How would you compare it to other tweeds on the market, islay mill, lovat, w bills, hardy alsport, porter and harding ? Any insight is appreciated. I see they have several new patterns on their website, : http://www.hunterstweed.com/TweedByTheMetre


    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012


  12. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    I asked this question in the wrong thread so I am redirecting it here.

    I picked up an interesting casual shirt by "Salvatore Piccolo" -- the label describes it as "Japanese fabrics tailored in Napoli." It's a sanforized, kind of chambrayed-denim (forgive me on the lingo, I don't usually go for these cloths). I like the light weight, soft hand, and the tone of blue is flattering. The problem is the collar is awfully skimpy and I think I'll return this and have something made up with a larger collar.

    Does anyone using Geneva know if they stock this kind of material? I have been meaning to switch to them and it would kill two birds with one stone. I am not averse to seeking out the cloth on my own, but it's a bit of a hassle to me and I don't know where I would begin to look for denim. I suppose any advice would be welcome.
     


  13. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Can't answer you question, but I've got a couple of pics of that (or a similar) shirt, that may help:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I think they make them in different colours. Maybe different collars too.
     


  14. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Thanks for your contribution. Is that yours? How are you enjoying it?

    Mine is a darker blue with a slight shade of aquamarine in it. It's not as dark a wash as a typical Western/cowboy shirt or whatever you call those yoked shirts.
    It's nothing refined, but a good sea-blue shade for summer. The collar has a similar cutaway to yours, but it looks utterly different when worn -- like a micro collar.

    [​IMG]


    Anyway, maybe this photo evidence will help someone comment on the material.
     


  15. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Thanks, fass. Not sure how it compares with the legacy stuff, but the 'new' Hunters is just rebranded Lovat tweed (so, the quality is comparable).
     


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