Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.
GY would be an appealing option, but he refuses to do fittings for his US customers. Bummer.
Is it realistic? They manage to get it right on their first try?
It's probably a system that works for some, and doesn't for others. I'm a particularly tough fit, and can't imagine working w/o fittings.
No way, even if they can they can't charge their bespoke usual price.
I've been pleased with the fit from Yao without fittings. I've sent things back for some minor tweaks that I noticed on my own. I've brought completed coats to subsequent visits, and he has noted adjustments that should be made.
I suppose the fit could be marginally better with fittings, but the lack of fittings don't bother me. Plus, I enjoy the benefit of my clothes being completed more quickly. I understand that this method is not for everybody, but I think it's a method that Yao does a very good job at.
I visited GY when he was in NY and just didn't like the styling - a very firm, padded shoulder. Honestly it looked like a lot of NY drycleaner "bespoke"
I can't figure out their effective CMT cost but they can. They pay a cloth bill and know what trimmings cost.
I think someone really made such a big deal about his cloth that they just find it easier to say no to everyone.
I suppose we could promise them X orders if they'll do CMT but business appears to be brisk as it is so I'm not sure they'd want to bother.
Why so insistent on using Chan? I haven't seen any of their garments but have never seen anything I liked from them. There are plenty other tailors that will use customers cloth.
I totally concurred
I respectfully disagree with your opinion of Yao. I know some people believe that the lack of fittings means its not real bespoke, which you seem to be implying about Yao. You're certainly entitled to your opinion on that matter. As for producing "drycleaner 'bespoke,'" Yao's affiliate thread shows a number of coats, none of which I believe look like they were made by a drycleaner:
You will also find in that thread that, like many other tailors, Yao makes jackets in a variety of styles, including a soft, unpadded shoulder. Here's an example:
Enough about Yao for this thread.
That looks much better than what I saw.
Number of fittings wasn't what I was criticizing; it was the styling - very generously padded shoulder, firm coat with not much shape. The should on that coat isn't just more to my liking, it's indicative of a higher level of skill than what was on display a few years ago.
That suit coat with the spalla camicia style shoulders belongs to follow member incontro, I've seen the suit in real life and it has no padding whatsoever and the fit is pretty good. With GY you just have to tell him what you want otherwise it will goes to his default style.
Here is one of mine in London Lounge Tweed that has very minimal padding.
tchoy, that jacket makes your hips look wider than your shoulders. Not a very flattering look.
Yea... that's not the best example.
Oh c'mon guys, that's not bad. A tad boring but not horrible tailoring.
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