Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    I've spent the last 5 minutes trying to "get it" but then again I am not the sharpest tool in the shed.



    you're a good man
     
  2. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    He was to facetiously hide behind the mannequin so as to avoid your wrath, because we all know that when crossed, you shoot fireballs from your eyes and lightening bolts from your ass. You are a very dangerous man to disagree with, Mr. Morel.
     
  3. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    I don't think so. I'm using the buttons on the shirt and jacket to control for the angle. So while it's still subjective to some degree, I'd want the top of my breast pocket to line up with the third buttonhole on the shirt. (Different shirts may have differently placed buttonholes, but I think it still applies here.) And I'd want the top of my lower patch pockets to be even with the jacket's lower buttonhole or bit below it. This is illustrated in wmb's blue coat below. Both pics posted side by side for comparison:

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    This is not to say he should throw away the jacket, just some things to consider for the next order. (My first Chan jacket had the breast pocket a bit high.) Although, the patch pockets could be recut on this one if he wanted. I'd also ask to have the breast pocket moved more inward a bit, so it's tucked under the lapel a bit.

    Never thought this before, but it might be wise to always order three patch pockets on a first commission to allow for changes later.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2012
  4. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Definitely agree that pockets are high overall- I'm having the side patch pockets re-cut lower. The high gorge is my preference. Good thinking about the third patch pocket!
     
  5. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Does anyone have any experience with the Drapers 'Blazon' book?Its a Super 140.
     
  6. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    This is a shot in the dark, but has anyone been to Ercole's lately and seen the bolt of mid-grey sort-of-flannely-sort-of-sharkskiny H. Lesser Carlo Barbera? If so, do you know what it is and what weight it is?
     
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    It is nice. Feels around 11-13 oz to me. What does Frank say?
     
  8. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    That is what he told me when he showed it to me.
     
  9. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    Do you wear a hat? I find that it keeps really warm without making my body hot. Doesn't make sense but it works.
     
  10. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    I take it neither of you ordered it? I don't recall what weight he told me, but I liked its hand--I figure it is ok for 3 season wear. Any idea what the fabric is called? Is it a sharkskin? I'm having a suit made from it--just not really sure what the heck it is. Could it be the material that Manton was referring to in the post below?:

     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2012
  11. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    No I didn't order it... I wear suits far more than sports coats and he only had 2.5 meters. Even if he had a suit length I would have passed, I have something similar, and I tend to prefer darker suits so my next few commissions will be in that direction. He showed it to me when I asked about heavyweight worsteds (I waslooking for something a bit heavier.) But it looked very, very nice. I'm sure it will make for a great suit.
     
  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Its Barbera for Lesser - gorgeous stuff - 13oz.
     
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    So WW Chan is on tour... anyone have any navy wool (preferably fresco)? I'd love to take it off your hands.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2012
  14. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    Grammaton and Tim_Horton, does this look like it? I've seen so many swatches I can't remember what I ordered! :embar: See NYR and courty posts below:
     
  15. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Chan does not accept fabric from its clients. If you want fresco, Chan will have it.
     

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