Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[L.deJong]

I cut a bit of slack to guys who might have become used to fighting for attention. Black dudes in London banking houses probably don't start with as much credibility as they deserve.

But still, a bit of mansplaining going on. So best to look past the messenger to see the content. Some of which makes sense.

Yes of course, social media is not the best platform to have an eloquent discussion. So you need to get attention in a different way.

But still, it's not black and white, and his way of doing things is not always the best/only way.
I do like fuller trousers though, and also high-rise, it just feels more comfortable, and I would suggest everyone to try it for themselves, but the problem here is: when people see his new tent-trousers they will just laugh and not change their thinking. Better to make it reasonable, if you now wear drain-pipe trousers consider making them a couple of cm's wider and see how you like that, that's a message that would not work on the socials, but is way more practical.

 

[Texasmade]

I cut a bit of slack to guys who might have become used to fighting for attention. Black dudes in London banking houses probably don't start with as much credibility as they deserve.

But still, a bit of mansplaining going on. So best to look past the messenger to see the content. Some of which makes sense.

You must "STAY HUMBLE AND LEARN!!!!"

 

[hpreston]

isn't that the dude that for a while posted here every hour and whilst doing so was being quite pretentious?

I think “quite pretentious” is being polite.

I cut a bit of slack to guys who might have become used to fighting for attention. Black dudes in London banking houses probably don't start with as much credibility as they deserve.

But still, a bit of mansplaining going on. So best to look past the messenger to see the content. Some of which makes sense.

A bit of mansplaining? He was downright rude. Look past the messenger if you will, but his behavior on this forum is enough for me to say no thanks.

You must "STAY HUMBLE AND LEARN!!!!"

Yes. One of his more polite proclamations here. Oddly he was nice and engaged in actual conversation when he first joined the forum, then he became a self proclaimed expert and no one could talk to him. He knew better than all.

 

[L.deJong]

Oh something else to think of, when you actively try to 'not be fashionable' are you actually true to yourself. I tried very hard to do my own thing, and found out what I liked and what I didn't like without listening too much to opinions of others, but still they did matter and you do not live in a vacuum. But I do agree with Bruce Boyer: real style is never right or wrong, it's a matter of being yourself on purpose. So that means you can be against fashion and wear what YOU like, but that doesn't mean everyone should like it and agree with your vision.
So of course sometimes fashion suits my build and my preferences, I would gladly follow it then. If you go against fashion for the sake of it you accomplish nothing. Because in due time trousers will get hiphop rapper style wide and you will have to go back to skinny jeans

 

[ericgereghty]

I love drape...especially armani drape but perhaps this is a bridge too far? View attachment 2333137

Lol. Thought similar when I saw this, which kinda sucks because by and large I do REALLY like the aesthetic of his trousers. But, ya...this is too much. The hem/shoe interplay looks like a woman's pant suit/heels. I can't imagine this look working for anyone except like World's Strongest Man sized fellas.

He has a MTM/semi-bespoke shop now that I might try for trousers. As well as a YouTube channel.

Interesting points of view, and he has solved quite a few challenges when getting his own athletic body clad effectively. For which he gets a gold star.

But as far as pretentiousness goes, one thing about the YouTube spots is that he has a funny habit of explaining himself three times. That may be helpful when preaching to an auditorium full of cynics, but is less useful on the small screen.

What's odd is he really turned up the preaching/shouting down at folks over the years. Perhaps leaning into a bit of brand building. All in all, I still like AB, buttttttt the sanctimoniou tone gets a bit tedious.

But, in fairness, the pants, assuming they are top shelf quality (yes, I am aware this is hardly a given and that they may be taking a muchhhhhhhhh larger take than other tailors), their prices are not obscene relative to other makers who lean toward a similar aesthetic.

Example: I do believe Steed's MTM trews (maybe it's deemed semi-bespoke now) are likely to be a similar price and explicitly will not accommodate a fishtail backing.

You must "STAY HUMBLE AND LEARN!!!!"

It became so over the top I came to view it as a shtick. Like, he's really not a dickhead...but either way, definitely a bit silly/quite offputting

 

[Despos]

Take an objective look at the silhouette he wears.
Proportions are not balanced.
Jacket length cuts him off and make his legs look shorter. Make the jacket one to two inches shorter; would better express the look he is trying to achieve.
Full trousers can and should have shape. That’s whats missing visually.
If you impose this design concept without balance that is complimentary to the client‘s build or body type it‘s unflattering and costume like.
Not knocking the style, just the execution.

 

[herecomesanother]

Hi all, please excuse me jumping in to ask for advice - I hope that's okay, and apologies for disrupting the current exchange.

I'm in the process of deciding on a fabric for a (very structured) 6 button double-breasted blazer, and I've narrowed it down to Dugdale's INV010 (14oz, I prefer the aesthetics of the twist serge), 040 (16.9oz, the weight seems like a compromise?), and 049 (17.6oz, I prefer the colour). My suiting is all ~14oz - I'm in Western Europe, I run cold, and so that works more-or-less for most of the year (+coat in winter).

The idea for this blazer is for it to be a bit more military in its styling, and robust in its performance, though, so the 14oz option conceptually feels a bit skimpy. On the other hand, I'm a little concerned the 16.9oz and 17.6oz might be overkill for daily wear (if only they had a dark blue cavalry twill in e.g. 15oz !) ...

I'd be very grateful for any thoughts! Thank you,

 

[antoinezula]

Is it possible for a private to buy fabric straight from Maison Hellard? I had heard it was possible to get it from them but don't see this option on their website.

Could anyone more or less tell me how much would a meter of linen / linen and wool cost? thx

 

[SimonC]

Hi all, please excuse me jumping in to ask for advice - I hope that's okay, and apologies for disrupting the current exchange.

I'm in the process of deciding on a fabric for a (very structured) 6 button double-breasted blazer, and I've narrowed it down to Dugdale's INV010 (14oz, I prefer the aesthetics of the twist serge), 040 (16.9oz, the weight seems like a compromise?), and 049 (17.6oz, I prefer the colour). My suiting is all ~14oz - I'm in Western Europe, I run cold, and so that works more-or-less for most of the year (+coat in winter).

The idea for this blazer is for it to be a bit more military in its styling, and robust in its performance, though, so the 14oz option conceptually feels a bit skimpy. On the other hand, I'm a little concerned the 16.9oz and 17.6oz might be overkill for daily wear (if only they had a dark blue cavalry twill in e.g. 15oz !) ...

I'd be very grateful for any thoughts! Thank you,

I wouldn’t be intimidated by the heavier weights so long as “most of the year”, means you’ve got something else for days over 30 degrees / 90 Fahrenheit. If you run cold, all of these fabrics are in the same ballpark and I’d go for the 049 because that seems to be where your heart lies

 

[diodati]

DHL said hello

View attachment 2333351

You went all in on that Rangoon

 

[JHWilliams]

Hi all, please excuse me jumping in to ask for advice - I hope that's okay, and apologies for disrupting the current exchange.

I'm in the process of deciding on a fabric for a (very structured) 6 button double-breasted blazer, and I've narrowed it down to Dugdale's INV010 (14oz, I prefer the aesthetics of the twist serge), 040 (16.9oz, the weight seems like a compromise?), and 049 (17.6oz, I prefer the colour). My suiting is all ~14oz - I'm in Western Europe, I run cold, and so that works more-or-less for most of the year (+coat in winter).

The idea for this blazer is for it to be a bit more military in its styling, and robust in its performance, though, so the 14oz option conceptually feels a bit skimpy. On the other hand, I'm a little concerned the 16.9oz and 17.6oz might be overkill for daily wear (if only they had a dark blue cavalry twill in e.g. 15oz !) ...

I'd be very grateful for any thoughts! Thank you,

Don’t be afraid of the heavier weight. I find that my 18 ounce blazer wears as warm as my 14/15 ounce blazer.

 

[jeremygo]

Is it possible for a private to buy fabric straight from Maison Hellard? I had heard it was possible to get it from them but don't see this option on their website.

Could anyone more or less tell me how much would a meter of linen / linen and wool cost? thx

I reached out to them last year about this and the answer was yes but they’d prefer to go through a tailor/their stockists. They quoted me 117 euros a meter back then but may have changed since.

 

[circumspice]

I reached out to them last year about this and the answer was yes but they’d prefer to go through a tailor/their stockists. They quoted me 117 euros a meter back then but may have changed since.

I (American) just bought a sport coat length from them direct on their web site around Nov 1.

 

[camez_]

Hi all, please excuse me jumping in to ask for advice - I hope that's okay, and apologies for disrupting the current exchange.

I'm in the process of deciding on a fabric for a (very structured) 6 button double-breasted blazer, and I've narrowed it down to Dugdale's INV010 (14oz, I prefer the aesthetics of the twist serge), 040 (16.9oz, the weight seems like a compromise?), and 049 (17.6oz, I prefer the colour). My suiting is all ~14oz - I'm in Western Europe, I run cold, and so that works more-or-less for most of the year (+coat in winter).

The idea for this blazer is for it to be a bit more military in its styling, and robust in its performance, though, so the 14oz option conceptually feels a bit skimpy. On the other hand, I'm a little concerned the 16.9oz and 17.6oz might be overkill for daily wear (if only they had a dark blue cavalry twill in e.g. 15oz !) ...

I'd be very grateful for any thoughts! Thank you,

just some alternatives for you if you'd consider non-serges
harrison's universal has a hopsack in the bunch
there is a hopsack at 580g in the churchill standeven bunch

might be worth to look at overcoating bunches as well


I'd take the 010 from your selection if you think only these three might be viable

 

[bourbonbasted]

John Cavendish has 50/50 linen/wool suitings. View attachment 2331209 View attachment 2331211

Bringing this back into the fray. Does anyone have a Cavendish plug? I sent them an email last week and am waiting on a response but wasn't sure if there was an agent in the US who could send me these (or other) swatches. My tailor doesn't carry anything from them.