Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[akong7]

This one is really neat. It's 80% silk/20% linen, the former giving it a nice slubbiness. I might try to get this made up. It's sold out but maybe I'll get lucky.

340125

collection.caccioppolinapoli.it

I saw this swatch and it's amazing. I was bummed it's sold out—if you're somehow able to get your hands on it please let me know. A good substitute I found is Fintex of London's Spring Garden bunch, which is also 80/20 silk/linen and has a similar beige color—but my tailor wasn't familiar with the merchant and doesn't seem able to get it.

 

[akong7]

Received Drapers Golden Selection. New double faced linen. Range of colors,all have a cream linen back side.
380 gr. 99% linen, 1% silk
soft and pliable for the weight. Jackets only, won’t work for trousers

I just saw these linens as well. Do you know what the purpose/advantage of the cream back side is?

 

[ericgereghty]

Tailor’s opinion, not a consumer; Ascot
If you’ve had an eye on anything in the Ascot book, order it now. New book released and not all of the cloths are repeated in the new book.
Weights have slightly changed too.
When I saw the new book on Friday, I bought all that was left of the charcoal/brown 2 ply and have already sold all that I ordered. The new brown is a basic solid brown without the melange of grey.

Received Drapers Golden Selection. New double faced linen. Range of colors,all have a cream linen back side.
380 gr. 99% linen, 1% silk
soft and pliable for the weight. Jackets only, won’t work for trousers

Do you imagine they'd be dramatically "fussier" than linens at a similar weight, if used for trousers?

 

[Despos]

I just saw these linens as well. Do you know what the purpose/advantage of the cream back side is?

Do not know the purpose or advantage and it’s not easy to find out unless you talk to someone at the mill. Vendors rarely know the answer to that type of question and I’ve already asked.
Most double face cloth has the option to use either side of the cloth as the face but I don’t think anyone would opt to use the cream side on these over picking a cream linen. It’s sort of a puzzling cloth.

 

[Despos]

Do you imagine they'd be dramatically "fussier" than linens at a similar weight, if used for trousers?

It’s woven as a jacketing and doesn’t have the tensile strength to hold up as a trouser.

 

[diodati]

I saw this swatch and it's amazing. I was bummed it's sold out—if you're somehow able to get your hands on it please let me know. A good substitute I found is Fintex of London's Spring Garden bunch, which is also 80/20 silk/linen and has a similar beige color—but my tailor wasn't familiar with the merchant and doesn't seem able to get it.

This merchant you speak of is good according to several Japanese tailors. I have a suit made in it. It’s fine. Nothing spectacular but also no regrets.

It’s woven as a jacketing and doesn’t have the tensile strength to hold up as a trouser.

What do you look for when assessing if a fabric would make up well as a trouser? What kind of testing do you do to the bunch to come to this conclusion? Not challenging you, I’m just asking for learning purposes.

 

[Despos]

The mills advise this, I don’t have or know of a way to determine this. Each sample is labeled if it’s to be used for jackets or suits.
If it says suit, it’s good to make trousers.

 

[Connemara]

I saw this swatch and it's amazing. I was bummed it's sold out—if you're somehow able to get your hands on it please let me know. A good substitute I found is Fintex of London's Spring Garden bunch, which is also 80/20 silk/linen and has a similar beige color—but my tailor wasn't familiar with the merchant and doesn't seem able to get it.

I’ll definitely let you know if I can find a source for the cloth.

This one is similar in color and pattern, but it lacks in visual interest.

 

[diodati]

The mills advise this, I don’t have or know of a way to determine this. Each sample is labeled if it’s to be used for jackets or suits.
If it says suit, it’s good to make trousers.

Ohhh I was thinking you had a test that you did to determine this. Thanks

 

[classicalthunde]

A good substitute I found is Fintex of London's Spring Garden bunch, which is also 80/20 silk/linen and has a similar beige color

This merchant you speak of is good according to several Japanese tailors. I have a suit made in it. It’s fine. Nothing spectacular but also no regrets.

Does anyone know if its possible to view these books online?

 

[akong7]

Does anyone know if its possible to view these books online?

This link is the best I've found: https://ameblo.jp/gentrycomplexblog/entry-12722352057.html

Here's what appears to be the beige herringbone made up:

 

[diodati]

Does anyone know if its possible to view these books online?

I don’t know. If you can’t find them on google, I’d guess not. As with all things, it’s best to go to your tailor and ask. Obviously we all have our biases (for no particular reason, I don’t like holland & sherry) but ask your tailor first. Then make adjustments for your own biases.

 

[Connemara]

This link is the best I've found: https://ameblo.jp/gentrycomplexblog/entry-12722352057.html

Here's what appears to be the beige herringbone made up:
View attachment 2330065

I think that's the Caccioppoli one. See here: https://www.merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=261_263&product_id=19026

 

[akong7]

I think that's the Caccioppoli one. See here: https://www.merinobrothers.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=261_263&product_id=19026

Found another post from The Anthology that indicates at least one of them is Fintex

 

[Connemara]

Found another post from The Anthology that indicates at least one of them is Fintex

View attachment 2330097

Good find! You're right. It looks great.