Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ppk]

Sometimes I wish I had your confidence in your opinion. For a guy who has never ordered bespoke and only orders rtw, you are surely a resident expert on everything related to bespoke. You and that goofball who is now on twitter but left because he got tired of getting dunked on.

One of the fundamental principles of an open forum is that we are free to post and how it is valued is up to each one of us. If one disagrees, critique it based on its merits.

Shaming someone with the goal of stifling their speech because they might not have the experience in a topic, seems antithetical to the goals of an open forum.

 

[Bellini]

The Minnis 8/9 oz is my favorite for hot, humid places like Miami and Manila. Even better than lightweight linen imo. My use has been similar to yours, and mine have held up for ~12 years of 5-10 uses/year. If you go with Minnis, I'd recommend the mid gray in addition to light, as it goes so well with shirts in white, light blue, oatmeal linen... Those are the two colors I have. Their beige ("sand") is a flat color, without any heathering like the grays, so I've avoided it. Same is true for Drapers' beige, unless they've changed it.

Many thanks. The light gray Fresco 510212 is appealing but I also like the slightly brownish grays in the Ascot book. Will have to look at the new book.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Looks lovely and good for summer.

It's a nice pattern. I wonder though about the quality of Lanicifio Cerruti. Has anybody on this forum used their fabrics? Would you recommend them?

 

[DorianGreen]

It's a nice pattern. I wonder though about the quality of Lanicifio Cerruti. Has anybody on this forum used their fabrics? Would you recommend them?

No direct experience, but it's a traditional and reputable mill.

Anyway, I would trust my tailor and my senses in the first place.

 

[hitsuji]

Latest pick ups

1. MH Olive Barleycorn Linen

2. Vintage G Hardy antique Gray POW check (renders a little brownish gray)

 

[wristandfeet]

Dear all,

If I am going for classic woolen flannel, in charcoal or blue-navy tones, is Fox Brother's Classic flannels book the benchmark? Are all cloths in that book woolen and not worsted?

Many thanks!

 

[CLH03]

Dear all,

If I am going for classic woolen flannel, in charcoal or blue-navy tones, is Fox Brother's Classic flannels book the benchmark? Are all cloths in that book woolen and not worsted?

Many thanks!

I haven't used Fox flannel, but have first hand experience with the Minnis flannel, which is great. Take a look at that book as well if you have a chance.

 

[hitsuji]

Dear all,

If I am going for classic woolen flannel, in charcoal or blue-navy tones, is Fox Brother's Classic flannels book the benchmark? Are all cloths in that book woolen and not worsted?

Many thanks!

Fox is indeed good, and possibly the best with colours in my opinion. The Classic flannels and 1772 flannels are all woolen. Their Worsted Flannel book contains all their Worsted options

Although take a look at oxbridge (half woolen half worsted) and Stonedale flannel by Standeven

As CHL03 says, Minnis is also very good

 

[L.deJong]

Fox is indeed good, and possibly the best with colours in my opinion. The Classic flannels and 1772 flannels are all woolen. Their Worsted Flannel book contains all their Worsted options

Although take a look at oxbridge (half woolen half worsted) and Stonedale flannel by Standeven

As CHL03 says, Minnis is also very good

Standeven stonedale is very nice, bought two lengths of grey for trousers and a nice grey glencheck for a db suit.
Not cheap though.

Minnis has more colour variation though, if you want something more than just your standard plains you are not going to find anything interesting in the stonedale bunch. I think minnis is the same kind of quality.

Do tell your tailor that the stonedale needs to be cut one way because of the finishing/nap.

 

[ericgereghty]

One of the fundamental principles of an open forum is that we are free to post and how it is valued is up to each one of us. If one disagrees, critique it based on its merits.

Shaming someone with the goal of stifling their speech because they might not have the experience in a topic, seems antithetical to the goals of an open forum.

You're a kinder soul than I, good sir

 

[MrFingers]

It's a nice pattern. I wonder though about the quality of Lanicifio Cerruti. Has anybody on this forum used their fabrics? Would you recommend them?

I had a summer sportcoat using one of their cloths (wool/silk/linen). It was RTW (Yes sorry I'm just a poor peasant that doesn't shell out thousands for bespoke; please don't lynch me) and it wore wonderfully. I'd highly recommend it.

 

[Connemara]

I'm intrigued by this Caccioppoli cloth, but I'm having trouble envisioning what it resolves to from a distance. I assume it'll look like a light to mid-blue. Any opinions?

https://collection.caccioppolinapoli.it/en/3401-jackets/4671-340101.html

This one is really neat. It's 80% silk/20% linen, the former giving it a nice slubbiness. I might try to get this made up. It's sold out but maybe I'll get lucky.

340125

collection.caccioppolinapoli.it

 

[Texasmade]

I'm intrigued by this Caccioppoli cloth, but I'm having trouble envisioning what it resolves to from a distance. I assume it'll look like a light to mid-blue. Any opinions?

https://collection.caccioppolinapoli.it/en/3401-jackets/4671-340101.html

Looks closer to dark navy blue/black.

 

[wristandfeet]

I haven't used Fox flannel, but have first hand experience with the Minnis flannel, which is great. Take a look at that book as well if you have a chance.

Fox is indeed good, and possibly the best with colours in my opinion. The Classic flannels and 1772 flannels are all woolen. Their Worsted Flannel book contains all their Worsted options

Although take a look at oxbridge (half woolen half worsted) and Stonedale flannel by Standeven

As CHL03 says, Minnis is also very good

Standeven stonedale is very nice, bought two lengths of grey for trousers and a nice grey glencheck for a db suit.
Not cheap though.

Minnis has more colour variation though, if you want something more than just your standard plains you are not going to find anything interesting in the stonedale bunch. I think minnis is the same kind of quality.

Do tell your tailor that the stonedale needs to be cut one way because of the finishing/nap.

Thanks for the wonderful suggestions, everyone!

 

[mktitsworth]

I'm intrigued by this Caccioppoli cloth, but I'm having trouble envisioning what it resolves to from a distance. I assume it'll look like a light to mid-blue. Any opinions?

https://collection.caccioppolinapoli.it/en/3401-jackets/4671-340101.html

This one is really neat. It's 80% silk/20% linen, the former giving it a nice slubbiness. I might try to get this made up. It's sold out but maybe I'll get lucky.

340125

collection.caccioppolinapoli.it

Wasn't there a famous SFer back in the day who had a blue and white gingham or houdstooth sport coat that he would wear with white trousers and white, sockless loafers. That was a good look.