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lordsuperb

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I run pretty warm, but have found good Irish linen to absorb summer heat and humidity quite well. Soft tailoring, of course, and be careful to avoid high-supers cotton shirts, which can turn into plastic bags.
Next project for the summer: Maison Hellard herringbone, unconstructed navy suit. If that winds up being too fragile I will go back to the more conventional Irish finish, 13/14oz. Those can take a while to break in, but some time on a hanger should get it to settle down and drape properly.

Or— perhaps and— a linen fresco as an experiment. I haven’t seen it in person yet. But SR shops are showing some interest.

Hitchcock or Mina for the unconstructed navy suit?
 

Concordia

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This was Hitchcock, a long time ago. I'm still debating as to whether it's worth getting recut. More or less unlined, but otherwise his standard construction, I think.

I don't do NsM for jackets.
Hitchcock or Mina for the unconstructed navy suit?

The next one will be an unconstructed India-made from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I used to care less about such things, but standard SR prices are starting to make me twitch just a little.
 

ericgereghty

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80F is fall weather for me. Best thing to wear in summer time is nothing. You’ll sweat your balls off wearing tailored clothing
This is so obviously the correct answer unless you're in EXTREMELY temperate summer climates.

Like, yes, sure, heavier Irish linen will feel cooler than silk (I'd agree even on a WSL blend) on your body.

You're still going to feel like full on shite if you're wearing anything of the sort in legitimately hot/humid temps. The degree is suffering at that point is so minute it is of no consequence, to anybody being honest with themselves.
 

MRex

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Splits the difference very nicely between firm heavy Irish weaves and flimsy Italians. With really excellent colors and patterns.
Do you have much experience with MH? I've been looking at a number of their fabrics, particularly the indigo Nimes-Osaka (it looks as though they rebranded it as Carnet de voyage indigo), but I've not heard much about them first-hand and would be curious to hear some thoughts.
 

Despos

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Check out Drapers Portofino Linen book.
Suiting, jacketing or trousers. A Solaro Herringbone cloth, twill, hopsack and plain weave for jackets, trousers or suits.
IMG_1695.jpeg



IMG_1692.jpeg

These twills didn't photograph well.
Great for jackets

IMG_1696.jpeg


IMG_1693.jpeg


IMG_1694.jpeg

Plain weave is same construct as the 13/14 ounce but at 11.5 ounce it's not as stiff.
Just enough weight difference to improve the feel and drape but keep the character of the cloth. IMO they figured out the optimal weight for each weave and use.
 

Concordia

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Do you have much experience with MH? I've been looking at a number of their fabrics, particularly the indigo Nimes-Osaka (it looks as though they rebranded it as Carnet de voyage indigo), but I've not heard much about them first-hand and would be curious to hear some thoughts.
A bit. Not for suits but their quality is most promising.
 

ZRH1

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PSA. A lot of not all of the heavy British linens are woven by Spence Bryson. Also for reference, I see users thinking of linen in hot weather, but I use linen in Singapore for dinner outings as I see it primarily for the casual look. For heat I choose high-twist.
 

jonathanS

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Check out Drapers Portofino Linen book.
Suiting, jacketing or trousers. A Solaro Herringbone cloth, twill, hopsack and plain weave for jackets, trousers or suits. View attachment 2312867


View attachment 2312869
These twills didn't photograph well.
Great for jackets

View attachment 2312871

View attachment 2312873

View attachment 2312875
Plain weave is same construct as the 13/14 ounce but at 11.5 ounce it's not as stiff.
Just enough weight difference to improve the feel and drape but keep the character of the cloth. IMO they figured out the optimal weight for each weave and use.
I believe the linen solaro was discontinued. Is that up to date?
 

single_origin

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Honestly if it is full tropical climate the lining makes a negligible difference - though I prefer a lining because in spite of making you slightly hotter (you are already gonna run warm) it at least "diffuses" the sweat and it does not go onto the actual fabric (which
How much lining do you go with? Full?
 

jonathanS

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Check out Drapers Portofino Linen book.
Suiting, jacketing or trousers. A Solaro Herringbone cloth, twill, hopsack and plain weave for jackets, trousers or suits. View attachment 2312867


View attachment 2312869
These twills didn't photograph well.
Great for jackets

View attachment 2312871

View attachment 2312873

View attachment 2312875
Plain weave is same construct as the 13/14 ounce but at 11.5 ounce it's not as stiff.
Just enough weight difference to improve the feel and drape but keep the character of the cloth. IMO they figured out the optimal weight for each weave and use.
Sounds like I have to try the normal drapers linen. I don’t like the 13/14 oz stuff. It’s too heavy for me. But the 8/9 is too light for suit trousers. They denigrate into hammer pents after one wear
 

The Chai

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How much lining do you go with? Full?
Wool i think you can get away with quarter as it won't discolor as much...I go with full lining for mohair and linens cause it "sticks" and mohairs scratchings can be unbearable without lining in humid summer. But these days I only wear a jacket for evening outings but most tropical countries are so casualised a nice dress shirt in most occasions is probably considered "black tie" in most circles
 

The Chai

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This is so obviously the correct answer unless you're in EXTREMELY temperate summer climates.

Like, yes, sure, heavier Irish linen will feel cooler than silk (I'd agree even on a WSL blend) on your body.

You're still going to feel like full on shite if you're wearing anything of the sort in legitimately hot/humid temps. The degree is suffering at that point is so minute it is of no consequence, to anybody being honest with themselves.
This! I really appreciate your comment and wholeheartedly agree...In tropical climates I feel like any consideration for wearing a suit, you have to accept that you're gonna "suffer" for the sake of elegance or that you will end up looking like a wet dish rag. Most people on this forum dress for their own pleasure and i understand that there is a trend towards casualisation in most western countries but in tropical climates like SE-Asia especially, a suit is such an odd choice to wear in the wild unless you're getting in and out of your car into an air conditioned venue. Apart from looking like a local weirdo it is just extremely uncomfortable. These days when I go out in malaysia I'm in line shorts and shirts and people think I'm overdressed!
 
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The Chai

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Tldr...cultural, regional context and comfort means if you are gonna wear a suit in a tropical humid climate...the argument between a silk or a lightweight/heavyweight linen is such a misnomer. When you go full wet dish rag mode...the minor differences does not matter...you are going to be uncomfortable regardless...and look very very out of place...but if you are willing to accept all this...wear whatever the F you want...personally I like a raw silk jacket for such contexts
 

camez_

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Tldr...cultural, regional context and comfort means if you are gonna wear a suit in a tropical humid climate...the argument between a silk or a lightweight/heavyweight linen is such a misnomer. When you go full wet dish rag mode...the minor differences does not matter...you are going to be uncomfortable regardless...and look very very out of place...but if you are willing to accept all this...wear whatever the F you want...personally I like a raw silk jacket for such contexts

and I like wool hopsacks in that regard, very light canvassing and half/full lining - you will feel miserable any way, so choose whatever you like
 

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