Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bellini]

I don't believe anybody who says 13+ oz linens wears cool. It doesn't, unless you run ice box cold to begin with.

God forbid humidity enters the mix.

You guys lack fortitude. 13oz linen is pretty light. 15oz+ is better; Mersolair has some which are 500gm.

Thermodynamics are such that a porous tropical wool will not help you if it's 100 degrees. All you're doing is letting more hot air in. In that scenario some kind of loose-fitting heavy wool is probably best, such as what Obi-Wan Kenobi wore on Tatooine.

 

[ericgereghty]

You guys lack fortitude. 13oz linen is pretty light. 15oz+ is better; Mersolair has some which are 500gm.

Thermodynamics are such that a porous tropical wool will not help you if it's 100 degrees. All you're doing is letting more hot air in. In that scenario some kind of loose-fitting heavy wool is probably best, such as what Obi-Wan Kenobi wore on Tatooine.

I will reiterate: I don't believe anybody who says 13+ oz linens wears cool

Note: you may feel less terrible in linen than silk when it's sweltering, sure. No argument there, but you're still going to feel terrible.

 

[Bellini]

I will reiterate: I don't believe anybody who says 13+ oz linens wears cool

Try higher, at least 450g. It's better than the tissue paper stuff. Light linen is bad, for shirting as well. It's not like tropical wool.

 

[ericgereghty]

Try higher, at least 450g. It's better than the tissue paper stuff. Light linen is bad, for shirting as well. It's not like tropical wool.

Dude, are you being serious right now lol?

Allow me to rephrase: I don't believe anybody who says 15+ oz linens wear cool.

 

[epsilon22]

Thermodynamics are such that a porous tropical wool will not help you if it's 100 degrees. All you're doing is letting more hot air in.

Last time I checked my body runs hotter than ambient temp though.

 

[Bellini]

Dude, are you being serious right now lol?

Allow me to rephrase: I don't believe anybody who says 15+ oz linens wear cool.

My claim wasn't that linen is the best choice for the dog days of summer. That would be either high-twist wool or seersucker. I do maintain that pure linen performs better than silk blends and that heavier linen is superior from both a functional and aesthetic standpoint.

 

[hitsuji]

My claim wasn't that linen is the best choice for the dog days of summer. That would be either high-twist wool or seersucker. I do maintain that pure linen performs better than silk blends and that heavier linen is superior from both a functional and aesthetic standpoint.

What linen bunches get heavier than the common consensus heavy weight linens at 13oz (that would also be good as suiting)?

 

[ZRH1]

What linen bunches get heavier than the common consensus heavy weight linens at 13oz (that would also be good as suiting)?

this, I tried Dugdale Lisburn, which is a tad heavier than WB Bill, my previous choice. However the shine on the black suit I did is not exactly to my absolute preference. I tried a mottled grey/green/black for a trouser, which is not shiny and thus much better.

On the topic of heavier linen, after an article on upholstery stuff from Spain by Simon Crompton for an orange jacket he did, I contacted them and asked samples, but didn't end up using it. On a parallel none, I enquired with Moygashel, the upholstery equivalent of Spence Bryson, but there then had the issue of a rather unhelpful customer service.

 

[Bellini]

What linen bunches get heavier than the common consensus heavy weight linens at 13oz (that would also be good as suiting)?

Harrisons/Mersolair has some 500g linens. Years ago the London Lounge had great linen around 14-15 oz. For good trousers you should have at least 400g.

One shouldn't underestimate the superior breathability and moisture absorption of good Irish linen, to say nothing of its wrinkle resistance and drape. It's very dry and springy compared to Italian linen, which sticks to your shirt. Some guys are too caught up about the absolute weight. It still wouldn't be my first choice on the hottest days.

 

[Bellini]

What linen bunches get heavier than the common consensus heavy weight linens at 13oz (that would also be good as suiting)?

It's getting harder to find. Dormeuil used to make a 20oz linen which was highly regarded.

 

[ericgereghty]

Thermodynamics are such that a porous tropical wool will not help you if it's 100 degrees. All you're doing is letting more hot air in.

My claim wasn't that linen is the best choice for the dog days of summer. That would be either high-twist wool or seersucker.

Brother, what in the fawk lol? Are you hammered off your namesake, or are you just fawking with me?

What linen bunches get heavier than the common consensus heavy weight linens at 13oz (that would also be good as suiting)?

Haven't experienced the full spectrum, but the Solbiati Art du Lin is a very hefty linen that doesn't quite feel its weight. Holds a crease about as well as can be expected from linen, as well.

I enjoy it, but, as mentioned, please don't for a second expect it to keep you cool in intensely hot/humid weather. It's too much, even in temperate hot (thinking 80F+ with no humidity/some breeze) climates.

 

[Bellini]

Brother, what in the fawk lol? Are you hammered off your namesake, or are you just fawking with me?

It depends on one's climate. The hot summers I experience rarely exceed 80F. I understand there are places in the USA where it is regularly over 100 for weeks, if not months on end. In such places a porous fabric won't save you.

 

[lordsuperb]

Brother, what in the fawk lol? Are you hammered off your namesake, or are you just fawking with me?

Haven't experienced the full spectrum, but the Solbiati Art du Lin is a very hefty linen that doesn't quite feel its weight. Holds a crease about as well as can be expected from linen, as well.

I will concur with what Bellini is saying on the heavy Irish linen especially on the trouser forefront. I have two pairs of of the LL linen, 2 pairs of W. Bill Irish linen, and one pair of Italian linen trousers. The LL and W. Bill linens maintain crease and are cool to the touch. The Italian linen while cool to the touch loses its shape and turns into hammer pants after a few hours.

Heavy Irish linen becomes a problem when you're wearing it as a jacket and the tailor doesn't accommodate the jacket for your respective climate --> fully lining the jacket and building shoulder padding into the coat. "If it's hot, its hot!!!!"

From what I've experienced the heavy Irish linen suits are better suited for spring and fall or summer evenings.

 

[Bellini]

Heavy Irish linen becomes a problem when you're wearing it as a jacket and the tailor doesn't accommodate the jacket for your respective climate --> fully lining the jacket and building shoulder padding into the coat. "If it's hot, its hot!!!!"

From what I've experienced the heavy Irish linen suits are better suited for spring and fall or summer evenings.

Indeed, the construction of the coat plays as great a
role as the weight of the fabric, if not more.

I can understand your experience. It depends entirely on the climate. In a northern climate I have no problems wearing Irish linen in summer and find it preferable to lightweight linen in drape and performance. On the hottest days I prefer high-twist wool or seersucker. However if one is is in 100+ degree weather, it follows a priori that a porous fabric will not help. Fortunately I have rarely experienced such weather. I'm not sure what ericgereghty is on about or why this should be controversial.

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[ericgereghty]

I’m not nearly drunk enough to abide this dissonance lol. Y’all have a delightful eve