Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[epsilon22]

Dear all
I have a two-part question here, based on my wish to commission a gun club check sports jacket, which has had me agonising for months. Firstly, the cloth:
i) i have seen quite a few examples made up in tweed (Harris or otherwise) that look too chunky for me..i prefer examples in lighter, finer cloth, such as that attached, but can't really find the bunch i'm looking for.
Something like the following:
View attachment 2290643
Fox, being typically my first port of call, doesn't seem to offer much like it. the closest i can find is SP17 and SP21, and although nice, at 14/15 they look a bit chunkier and tweedier:
View attachment 2290647 View attachment 2290649

I found a very light (8/9) Super 100s (can't recall the mill), but thought it might look a bit cheap (it is just a 'plain check' rather than the more interesting/familiar 'dog tooth shape' check)

View attachment 2290653

This 11oz Standeven isn't too bad, but a bit too flannel/fuzzy for what i'm after:
View attachment 2290659

This 11oz Harrison's Glorious Tweflth is perhaps not too bad:

View attachment 2290661

I'm wary of the warning that is often made that made-up jackets tend to come out much lighter than the swatch suggests, so perhaps Fox's SP17 will come out closer to the target jacket than it appears when looking at the swatch, but i'm nervous of it not 'feeling' and draping quite as this example does. i'd really appreciate advice on which to select here.

Secondly, given the pattern, i like the idea of the Florentine cut that hides the front dart to the side and doesn't 'mess up' the check pattern. Does anyone know of any MtM Florentine-style tailors in London?

Thank you vm indeed, as always.

I had a Model 15 (Florentine style) made in Fox SP9 at the Armoury, I think it's quite nice, a bit heavy compared to my other jackets but still comfortable to wear in the office and while commuting through the subway.

The worsted alsport book was another one I was closely looking at, it has some nice color/patterns, and it's lighter than the Fox SP. The Fox worsted flannel also has some gunclub checks even lighter than the worsted alsport.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I had a Model 15 (Florentine style) made in Fox SP9 at the Armoury, I think it's quite nice, a bit heavy compared to my other jackets but still comfortable to wear in the office and while commuting through the subway.

The worsted alsport book was another one I was closely looking at, it has some nice color/patterns, and it's lighter than the Fox SP. The Fox worsted flannel also has some gunclub checks even lighter than the worsted alsport.

Ooh, thank you - could you attach a photo please?
I'd love to see examples of SP17 and 21 made up, if anyone has used these cloths.

 

[epsilon22]

Ooh, thank you - could you attach a photo please?
I'd love to see examples of SP17 and 21 made up, if anyone has used these cloths.

If you search SP9 in this thread I've posted a pic before. Not the best lighting to see the colors but enough to see the pattern's scale made up as a jacket. Currently away from home so I can't take better pics.

 

[sojorn]

Hello all,

I'm trying to find the exact reference of this fabric (see attached photos). The label says only 73103/1, but apparently Vitale Barberis Canonico does not have this reference. It's an older Boggi blazer, circa ~2017.

I'd be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction.

Thank you

 

[Connemara]

Abraham moon Shetland jacketing

4904W/01

Composition 100% Wool Weight 380 glm Classic best-selling tweeds in a wide range of colourways as part of the Abraham Moon Sartorial collection. All fabrics are available to trade customers from a minimum of 1m. To enquire about a trade account, please contact our apparel sales team...

www.moons.co.uk

I like the W. Bill over the kirkton. It's a more unique scale, whereas the Kirkton is pretty standard. I agree that the Blue adds some visual interest, but I have to say I find a 500g sport jacket hard to fathom for climes I encounter.

They’re both excellent. I have a Kirkton, and it has amazing drape but is scratchier than typical Shetland tweed due to the Cheviot wool, so going collarless in a crew neck might be uncomfortable on all but the coldest days. The W Bill looks easy to coordinate with the added navy but also kind of generic if you flip through as much social media as I do. In fact, the lack of blue in the Kirkton would make it easier to coordinate with many different colors IMO. In case of a roll-neck, one in dark green, brown, charcoal, black, and of course navy would all work. The W Bill would be more limited, esp with green. If I already had some winter jackets and was in your shoes, I’d go with the Kirton. It’ll likely outlive you, extremely warm/breathable, and the patterns are exceptional.

Both are very nice, but I prefer the second one: as you say, the blue adds interest.

The W.Bill will be more versatile: its lighter weigh will allow you to wear it indoors and the blue check will pair well with jeans. Call it more contemporary tweed. The Kirkton is more of a traditional choice: weight of those old Tweeds, more durable at expense of softtness.

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. I'm leaning toward the Lovat because I like old-school, heavy tweeds, and I live in the snowy Northeast where a fabric like this can be worn without overheating. I'm also inclined to go with it because the colorway is classic and would look good with various ties, shirts, and trousers.

 

[brax]

View attachment 2290511
Softer, more mellow tone than the pictures shows

I call dibs.

 

[mktitsworth]

I call dibs

Get in line.

 

[jonathanS]

Get in line.

But @brax is a despos customer. I’m fairly certain you’re behind him.

 

[mktitsworth]

But @brax is a despos customer. I’m fairly certain you’re behind him.

Who says I'm not a despos customer?

 

[mktitsworth]

Totally unrelated but my local tailor (G&N) sent me this picture. I won't spoil what I did, but Piacenza sent them the swatch books for their Vicuna fabrics - the Vicuna and Cocoon.

 

[mktitsworth]

The background fabrics are all SherryAlpaca from H&S. He's been having fun with their seasonal offering and it's the group that the littlest chose his jacket fabric from.

 

[brax]

But @brax is a despos customer. I’m fairly certain you’re behind him.

He’s right. I was not fast enough with the trigger.

 

[Skeem1]

Hi Gents,

Does anyone know what fabric this is from Zegna or has a similar alternative?
Fabric is cashmere/silk blend...

Dark Brown and Light Brown Cashmere and Silk Jacket FW24 31720399 | Zegna US

Dark Brown and Light Brown Cashmere and Silk Jacket by ZEGNA US. Shop new arrivals and benefit from free shipping and returns.

www.zegna.com

 

[JimmyHoffa]

Does anyone have an online directory that shows all the current Art Du Lin fabrics? I.e. like a normal catalogue (similar to W. Bill, Drapers, H&S etc)?

 

[NorwRichard]

Any advice on heavy weight coating cloth? 22oz ++++ wool, herringbone or tweed? Many offer much lighter coating.. magee is one with the heavier cloth (and nice value)