Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[mktitsworth]

Thanks, no, I don’t have a specific cloth in mind, but I am looking for trousering. Would you be willing to share these names?

Sure. Check your DMs. Are you familiar with the rest of the process or is this your first time ordering custom trousers?

 

[multiccy-csa]

Dear all,
I'm looking to have a SB suit made up for the office, and would like a grey herringbone...but am unsure on the choice of cloth. I'd like worsted (i think) rather than a tweed, but would like a bit of interest/texture/knap/fuzz, although not flannel.
I'm fair skinned and haired, so i'm concerned a mid grey (or paler) risks washing me out, so i'm thinking of going for charcoal, or between mid-grey and charcoal. Autumn/Winter weight, that will withstand a tube journey with an overcoat... so 12-15oz-ish.
I've picked out a few here :
Harrison's Universal 74208 (reliable?)
Fox Worsted Classics WT19 (bit flat/dull?)
Dugdale English Town Classics 9469 (quite interesting 'darker flecks' detail)
Dugdale English Town Classics - shade darker than above (bit less interesting)

Can anyone help with the decision around such a commission and/or have a favourite 'dark mid-gray/charcoal' herringbone favourite, and/or (better still) have any photos of suits made up in these cloths?

Thank you vm indeed.

 

[CLH03]

Is there anything to be aware of when buying mystery cloth on ebay? Any bad experiences?

Wouldn’t do it…. very very rarely is it ever worth it.

 

[CLH03]

Dear all,
I'm looking to have a SB suit made up for the office, and would like a grey herringbone...but am unsure on the choice of cloth. I'd like worsted (i think) rather than a tweed, but would like a bit of interest/texture/knap/fuzz, although not flannel.
I'm fair skinned and haired, so i'm concerned a mid grey (or paler) risks washing me out, so i'm thinking of going for charcoal, or between mid-grey and charcoal. Autumn/Winter weight, that will withstand a tube journey with an overcoat... so 12-15oz-ish.
I've picked out a few here :
Harrison's Universal 74208 (reliable?)
Fox Worsted Classics WT19 (bit flat/dull?)
Dugdale English Town Classics 9469 (quite interesting 'darker flecks' detail)
Dugdale English Town Classics - shade darker than above (bit less interesting)

Can anyone help with the decision around such a commission and/or have a favourite 'dark mid-gray/charcoal' herringbone favourite, and/or (better still) have any photos of suits made up in these cloths?

Thank you vm indeed.


View attachment 2281423

Would go with this dugdale mid grey flannell-ish, it looks the most interesting to me. Town and classics is solid stuff, will hold up well.

 

[The Chai]

Wouldn’t do it…. very very rarely is it ever worth it.

Ehh I have to disagree here. I have got alot of cloth off eBay. Some of it is a miss yes but quite occasionally alot of rare or unusual cloths pop up which appeals alot to me. I got my midnight mohair cashmere for my dinner jacket off eBay. I think you just have to set certain expectations and accept some purchases may be a dud. I usually ask for samples shipped if they are selling off a roll.

 

[DorianGreen]

I have had a bespoke sports jacket made up in a brown Fox glen check flannel (CL2-28), and while i'm happy with the fit and make (i think), to me it looks like the top half of a suit, rather than a separate jacket...but i can't quite work out why.

I was looking for a 'sort of' Neapolitan look (straight lapels that look concave when folded, open quarters etc), though i prefer a little more structure/roping, which the tailor has delivered as requested... yet something doesn't look quite right to me. Perhaps it is the structuring, without which it might work better. I think perhaps the quarters need paring back slightly (to be more open/curved), although this might clash with the shape of the patch pocket.

I'd be extremely grateful for member's thoughts on the fit more generally.
Many thanks, as always

View attachment 2278861
View attachment 2278863
View attachment 2278865

It looks great to me, nice style and very good fit.

As for your question, the pictures are not clean enough, but I suppose that your impression is caused by the cloth not being patterned (or having a too small scaled pattern). It works though in my eyes. Lovely outfit, by the way.

 

[Concordia]

Texture is a bit plain, and pattern is subtle. A tiny bit of Lesser 13oz vibe. But just make sure to pair it with useful shirt/tie/trs, and it will become your style.

 

[hitsuji]

Is there anything to be aware of when buying mystery cloth on ebay? Any bad experiences?

I buy quite often

Snags and holes are usually the first worry when it comes to vintage cloth. If the ebay seller says there isn’t any, do inspect the cloth carefully. This is
most important for patterned cloths where pattern matching is important.

Selvedges and tags are your best friend, find indicators of reputatable brands, lots of fabrics on ebay do come from defunct mills and merchants alike and some of them may be missing selvedge.

If you can, get a sample before purchasing.

Ebay can be hit or miss but there’s buyer protection to cover losses and such but please do not abuse this and only use it where necessary e.g. item is not as described or theres damage that wasn’t spoken about

I’ve gotten some decent fabrics there for quite cheap, notably some vintage lesser, Dorm Towntex and Sportex, Standeven, harrisons, etc

 

[tim_horton]

Harrison's Universal 74208 (reliable?)
Fox Worsted Classics WT19 (bit flat/dull?)
Dugdale English Town Classics 9469 (quite interesting 'darker flecks' detail)
Dugdale English Town Classics - shade darker than above (bit less interesting)

I would add Smith's Botany, Minnis Classics 2, and Harrison's Oyster to the list of books to consider.

SMITHS BOTANY/100% WOOL - Harrisons

380-410gm 12/13oz 150cms wide 100% Pure Merino Wool

www.harrisons1863.com

They are all quality, so it really comes down to which one you like subjectively: the right tone of grey, the right size of herringbone, the right amount of mottling, etc.

I loved Smith's Blue Riband - a slightly lighter version of Botany, now discontinued - but I've never had anything made up with Botany.

Out of the ones you posted, I think the Universal looks best. The herringbone in the Fox is a little too bold, too much flecking in the first Dugdale, the second Dugdale is too dark. But this is all subjective.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Dear all,
I'm looking to have a SB suit made up for the office, and would like a grey herringbone...but am unsure on the choice of cloth. I'd like worsted (i think) rather than a tweed, but would like a bit of interest/texture/knap/fuzz, although not flannel.
I'm fair skinned and haired, so i'm concerned a mid grey (or paler) risks washing me out, so i'm thinking of going for charcoal, or between mid-grey and charcoal. Autumn/Winter weight, that will withstand a tube journey with an overcoat... so 12-15oz-ish.
I've picked out a few here :
Harrison's Universal 74208 (reliable?)
Fox Worsted Classics WT19 (bit flat/dull?)
Dugdale English Town Classics 9469 (quite interesting 'darker flecks' detail)
Dugdale English Town Classics - shade darker than above (bit less interesting)

Can anyone help with the decision around such a commission and/or have a favourite 'dark mid-gray/charcoal' herringbone favourite, and/or (better still) have any photos of suits made up in these cloths?

Thank you vm indeed.

View attachment 2281419
View attachment 2281423

View attachment 2281425

Harrison’s Universal I have that exact cloth awaiting a fitting and another in a non-herringbone that I quite enjoy. Solid hand but the herringbone may be a bit muted in real life given what you’ve said you’re looking for. Old picture from my stash before I sent it off.

I’d throw a wildcard into your mix and suggest Standeven Heritage Twist. A phenomenal bunch and one of my favorites. A fantastic, heavy old school cloth. Take a look at the Arthur’s seat for something with a little more visual interest than the standard herringbone.

Re: @tim_horton suggestion of Botany - have that as well and would flag that it’s also a very solid cloth and will notably have a significantly softer hand compared to Heritage Twist or Universal if that’s of concern to you. It’s also a hair lighter.

In terms of weight and hand from crisp to softer having all three IMO. Universal -> Heritage Twist -> Botany

 

[tim_horton]

Re: @tim_horton suggestion of Botany - have that as well and would flag that it’s also a very solid cloth and will notably have a significantly softer hand compared to Heritage Twist or Universal if that’s of concern to you. It’s also a hair lighter.

That's what I liked about the Blue Riband. It was a nice weight, good hand, but was just a tad softer than similar weight fabrics. It's so comfortable.

I wish they made a true light grey in Botany.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Harrison’s Universal I have that exact cloth awaiting a fitting and another in a non-herringbone that I quite enjoy. Solid hand but the herringbone may be a bit muted in real life given what you’ve said you’re looking for. Old picture from my stash before I sent it off. View attachment 2281701
View attachment 2281703
I’d throw a wildcard into your mix and suggest Standeven Heritage Twist. A phenomenal bunch and one of my favorites. A fantastic, heavy old school cloth. Take a look at the Arthur’s seat for something with a little more visual interest than the standard herringbone.

Re: @tim_horton suggestion of Botany - have that as well and would flag that it’s also a very solid cloth and will notably have a significantly softer hand compared to Heritage Twist or Universal if that’s of concern to you. It’s also a hair lighter.

In terms of weight and hand from crisp to softer having all three IMO. Universal -> Heritage Twist -> Botany

Thamks @tim_horton and @JohnMRobie.
These are both extremely helpful suggestions, thank you. Could i please see photos of made up suits? I feel i can't reliably tell from swatches, particularly on things like sheen and drape.
I'll take anything i can get! Thank you again for the additional suggestions, I'll take a close look.

 

[DavidLane]

Anyone have a source for some OG 107 Sateen cloth or OG herringbone twill?

Does not need to be vintage, I am looking for something like the originals via WWII/Vietnam era.

Thank you,

-DL

 

[jonathanS]

Cross-post between underfunded liabilities, on going bespoke & overcoat thread.

I’m looking for a fabric that will be used to cut a doppio petto manica forchetta coat (double breasted raglan). I could do a 450g vicuña and cashmere. But one of my friends mentioned that might be too delicate.

Thoughts?

It will have a martingale back

 

[bjhofkin]

doppio petto manica forchetta coat

That is A LOT of Italian modifiers…😂