Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[L.deJong]

I can't put my finger on why, but I sort of know what you mean. I think it's just a slightly "sharp" cut. Honestly though, I wouldn't overthink it. The jacket looks good and fits you well.

IMO, it's all about the cloth itself. because the construction/cut of my jackets are all the same (so suits and sc), but because the cloth is more casual it doesn't look like a spare suit jacket.
My trousers are different, all my suit trousers are high rise and made to worn with braces. All my other more casual trousers are lower rise and meant to be worn with a belt or side-adjusters.
I have never felt that my jackets look like suit jackets.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I can't put my finger on why, but I sort of know what you mean. I think it's just a slightly "sharp" cut. Honestly though, I wouldn't overthink it. The jacket looks good and fits you well.

Thank you for coming back. I think it probably is the 'sharpness', perhaps i should have gone softer afterall. I'll probably leave it as it looks good in its own way, but for my own understanding and for future reference, is it theoretically convertible?

 

[L.deJong]

Thank you for coming back. I think it probably is the 'sharpness', perhaps i should have gone softer afterall. I'll probably leave it as it looks good in its own way, but for my own understanding and for future reference, is it theoretically convertible?

I would leave it as is man, It looks fine for a single coat, next time you could make it a 3 roll 2 and maybe ask for less padding in the shoulders, but I would definitely wear it as a single coat. Nothing wrong with it, just own it. Look at the single coats from F. Caraceni, that's in your face bold, same for Edward Sexton and still perfectly wearable. Next time I would choose a more casual cloth and you are good imo.

 

[mktitsworth]

Funded one of each: the Light Grey LGB as a SB with straight flapped pockets, notch lapels, a ticket pocket, and a grey lining, and the blue stripe flannel as a 6x4 Peak lapel DB with slanted jetted pockets and a ticket pocket. For the lining on the DB he picked out a blue with gold dots that he had on hand and liked.

 

[hitsuji]

I have had a bespoke sports jacket made up in a brown Fox glen check flannel (CL2-28), and while i'm happy with the fit and make (i think), to me it looks like the top half of a suit, rather than a separate jacket...but i can't quite work out why.

I was looking for a 'sort of' Neapolitan look (straight lapels that look concave when folded, open quarters etc), though i prefer a little more structure/roping, which the tailor has delivered as requested... yet something doesn't look quite right to me. Perhaps it is the structuring, without which it might work better. I think perhaps the quarters need paring back slightly (to be more open/curved), although this might clash with the shape of the patch pocket.

I'd be extremely grateful for member's thoughts on the fit more generally.
Many thanks, as always

View attachment 2278861
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I think Fox Flannels glen checks tend to suits so without any overt big checks it may look "off". I still say rock it as is or if you decide to go for a full suit the fabric is still on sale.

It is still a great commission and I wouldn't do anything to it, just rock it as is. If it does bug you, commission a pair of trousers and wear it as a suit

 

[multiccy-csa]

I think Fox Flannels glen checks tend to suits so without any overt big checks it may look "off". I still say rock it as is or if you decide to go for a full suit the fabric is still on sale.

It is still a great commission and I wouldn't do anything to it, just rock it as is. If it does bug you, commission a pair of trousers and wear it as a suit

I would leave it as is man, It looks fine for a single coat, next time you could make it a 3 roll 2 and maybe ask for less padding in the shoulders, but I would definitely wear it as a single coat. Nothing wrong with it, just own it. Look at the single coats from F. Caraceni, that's in your face bold, same for Edward Sexton and still perfectly wearable. Next time I would choose a more casual cloth and you are good imo.

I can't put my finger on why, but I sort of know what you mean. I think it's just a slightly "sharp" cut. Honestly though, I wouldn't overthink it. The jacket looks good and fits you well.

Thanks again all. Fair point on the 'plain' cloth, a window pane would probably have made it more sporty. does a 3-roll-2 actually carry any structural significance? not sure that makes a difference.
Had a bit more of a think about the fit/cut, and have the following observations:
i) think the 'fold' in the lapel is too sharp and could be softened.
ii) gorge a little high? doubt there's much that can be done about that at this point
iii) it is perhaps 0.5" too long? very minor, prob doesn't make much difference
iv) perhaps the most important observation: the quarters don't 'splay' outwards, when the jacket is buttoned or unbuttoned, rather they hang vertically/limply, rather than twisting/lifting higher, as some appear as if they 'pivot' at the buttoning point. (example images below). is there too much volume that causes them to not behave like the examples below?
(The curvature of the quarters is almost identical to another Neopolitan jacket i have, so i don't think it's that they're not cut as open/rounded as i'd like them)

'splaying' of quarters, when open:

....and when buttoned:

Any thoughts..? (except that i'm overthinking it)

 

[CLH03]

Thanks again all. Fair point on the 'plain' cloth, a window pane would probably have made it more sporty. does a 3-roll-2 actually carry any structural significance? not sure that makes a difference.
Had a bit more of a think about the fit/cut, and have the following observations:
i) think the 'fold' in the lapel is too sharp and could be softened.
ii) gorge a little high? doubt there's much that can be done about that at this point
iii) it is perhaps 0.5" too long? very minor, prob doesn't make much difference
iv) perhaps the most important observation: the quarters don't 'splay' outwards, when the jacket is buttoned or unbuttoned, rather they hang vertically/limply, rather than twisting/lifting higher, as some appear as if they 'pivot' at the buttoning point. (example images below). is there too much volume that causes them to not behave like the examples below?
(The curvature of the quarters is almost identical to another Neopolitan jacket i have, so i don't think it's that they're not cut as open/rounded as i'd like them)

View attachment 2280235
View attachment 2280237
'splaying' of quarters, when open:

View attachment 2280245
....and when buttoned:
View attachment 2280247

Any thoughts..? (except that i'm overthinking it)

You most certainly are overthinking it. The jacket looks very good. Just wear it, and when you have put some mileage on if, I promise you’ll like it more. Have been in your shoes before, agonizing over this tiny little thing here or there, but you need to wear it, put some miles on it.

Once you’ve done that, then discuss your points with the tailor once you go to make another commission.

 

[mktitsworth]

i) Talk to the tailor about this. My understanding is that this is largely a matter of good ironing.
ii) I won't say that I'm the forum norm, but I like a high gorge. It appears to lengthen the plunge to the buttoning point. I think the optimal spot is right above the collarbone, so that the collar of the jacket stays relatively still as the body moves under neath it.
iii) I would follow @CLH03 on this.
iv) As immediately above, except to also say that those jackets look like they were cut by two different tailors from two different patterns. If this is the case then there's no immediately apparent reason to expect them to hang the same.

 

[reidd]

Thanks again all. Fair point on the 'plain' cloth, a window pane would probably have made it more sporty. does a 3-roll-2 actually carry any structural significance? not sure that makes a difference.
Had a bit more of a think about the fit/cut, and have the following observations:
i) think the 'fold' in the lapel is too sharp and could be softened.
ii) gorge a little high? doubt there's much that can be done about that at this point
iii) it is perhaps 0.5" too long? very minor, prob doesn't make much difference
iv) perhaps the most important observation: the quarters don't 'splay' outwards, when the jacket is buttoned or unbuttoned, rather they hang vertically/limply, rather than twisting/lifting higher, as some appear as if they 'pivot' at the buttoning point. (example images below). is there too much volume that causes them to not behave like the examples below?
(The curvature of the quarters is almost identical to another Neopolitan jacket i have, so i don't think it's that they're not cut as open/rounded as i'd like them)

View attachment 2280235
View attachment 2280237
'splaying' of quarters, when open:

View attachment 2280245
....and when buttoned:
View attachment 2280247

Any thoughts..? (except that i'm overthinking it)

I don't think its a great idea to micromanage most of attributes you mention to your tailor except maybe the length and stipulating 3 roll 2 instead of 2 button (too late to change that now, but on future garments). Quarters may in fact be alterable very slightly but I'm pretty certain the lapel roll is not. In this case I think the length and quarters are technically correct and look just fine, although it perhaps they read a bit more formal than ideal for you.

Rather than try to dictate these things to your tailor, I would simply go to a different one for jackets you intend to be worn more casually, and save these guys for your more formal garments. There is a place for both in your wardrobe. Not seeking a specific name, but did you say this was made by a Neapolitan tailor? Typically they are on the more casual end of the bespoke spectrum but not always.

Anyway, I still think this jacket looks well fitted and looks good on you.

 

[MarxismWinsAgain]

Is there anything to be aware of when buying mystery cloth on ebay? Any bad experiences?

 

[tim_horton]

I have had a bespoke sports jacket made up in a brown Fox glen check flannel (CL2-28), and while i'm happy with the fit and make (i think), to me it looks like the top half of a suit, rather than a separate jacket...but i can't quite work out why.

My two cents: it's better as a jacket than a suit. This is purely subjective but a mid-brown flannel PoW as a suit looks a bit anachronistic to me, in a way that a jacket in the same fabric doesn't. I had an OTR suit in a similar fabric and felt it was a little much for my personal style. Brown is an informal color, in order for it to work as a suit for me, I like it VERY dark (like that Fox bitter brown barathea posted a while back) or tan. Mid brown to me is better off as a jacket.

There's no wrong answer though, plenty of people would wear this as a suit. I think this looks great paired with grey trousers.

 

[classicalthunde]

Is there anything to be aware of when buying mystery cloth on ebay? Any bad experiences?

Yes, notably:

1. is the color and scale accurately presented? Is the hand/texture going to be what you're looking for?
2. are there defects (i.e. snags, runs, etc.) in the cloth where cutting a pattern out of it might be an issue
3. is it just crap cloth that isn't well made (notably a prob when its not a name brand/doesn't have a selvedge)

 

[mktitsworth]

Is there anything to be aware of when buying mystery cloth on ebay? Any bad experiences?

What @classicalthunde said, with the added useful clarification: do you have a specific mystery cloth that you're looking at and asking this question for, or are you speaking in general? If speaking in general, there are numerous reputable cloth merchants out there with quality cloth available for reasonable prices and if you're not already experienced with ordering and dealing with cloth, those may be better places to start than eBay.

 

[MarxismWinsAgain]

Yes, notably:

1. is the color and scale accurately presented? Is the hand/texture going to be what you're looking for?
2. are there defects (i.e. snags, runs, etc.) in the cloth where cutting a pattern out of it might be an issue
3. is it just crap cloth that isn't well made (notably a prob when its not a name brand/doesn't have a selvedge)

Thank you! (3) would probably be the biggest concern..

 

[MarxismWinsAgain]

What @classicalthunde said, with the added useful clarification: do you have a specific mystery cloth that you're looking at and asking this question for, or are you speaking in general? If speaking in general, there are numerous reputable cloth merchants out there with quality cloth available for reasonable prices and if you're not already experienced with ordering and dealing with cloth, those may be better places to start than eBay.

Thanks, no, I don’t have a specific cloth in mind, but I am looking for trousering. Would you be willing to share these names?