Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[CorozoButton]

Looking for my next transitional season commission and thinking I'm going to go with a brown/taupe M&E in the Colne quality (320g).

I'm torn between two, one a classic PoW pattern, and the other a little less usual.

I do have a brown PoW jacket suitable for similar temperatures, although the shade is very different, so feel there's more wardrobe versatility in the other, but I'm a little hesitant as I can't find much in the way of photos of it made up (only the few that I've attached below).

Here is the M&E PoW next to a swatch of the one I already have made up. They're very different in shade, but still fundamentally brown PoW:

It would primarily be worn with mid/dark grey flannels at the smarter end, and cream cords at the more casual end. Possibly jeans too (will be patch pocket/soft shoulder).

Would love to hear anyone's thoughts.

 

[Concordia]

The square checks are, as you say, less usual. Will you be wearing it less frequently, or willing to make it your signature look?

 

[DorianGreen]

Looking for my next transitional season commission and thinking I'm going to go with a brown/taupe M&E in the Colne quality (320g).

I'm torn between two, one a classic PoW pattern, and the other a little less usual.

View attachment 2269293



I do have a brown PoW jacket suitable for similar temperatures, although the shade is very different, so feel there's more wardrobe versatility in the other, but I'm a little hesitant as I can't find much in the way of photos of it made up (only the few that I've attached below).

Here is the M&E PoW next to a swatch of the one I already have made up. They're very different in shade, but still fundamentally brown PoW:
View attachment 2269295

It would primarily be worn with mid/dark grey flannels at the smarter end, and cream cords at the more casual end. Possibly jeans too (will be patch pocket/soft shoulder).

Would love to hear anyone's thoughts.
View attachment 2269297 View attachment 2269299 View attachment 2269301 View attachment 2269303

You can't go wrong with either option, both cloths look classy. Perhaps I'd take the Gun Club Check for more variety, but not necessarily.

 

[CorozoButton]

The square checks are, as you say, less usual. Will you be wearing it less frequently, or willing to make it your signature look?

I don't think I would consider it a signature look. It would be less frequent. I think I'm perhaps a little thrown off by the scale. It's definitely larger than you generally see with gun club style checks, which although it isn't, feels the most comparable in pattern to me.

 

[Concordia]

Well, it is a nice look, especially with the un-dyed wool. If the tailor makes it up well and you can handle the first five minutes of being a bit more conspicuous, why not?

That said, the POW option is also very good.

 

[camez_]

I'd go with the PoW, it's just more interesting

 

[ZRH1]

Where from?

I am also interested in the source. Thank you

 

[classicalthunde]

Harrison’s Premier Cru is my go to. Very wrinkle resistant, good colors. The charcoal birds eye is a particular favorite

@Despos sorry to necropost - but would you mind sharing what your preferred/favorite navy fabrics are in that book? I am weighing options in the Premier Cru book against Smith Finmeresco for a basic, formal-ish, workhorse navy suit.

This shot of 52064 from Merino Bros seems to be a nice shade, but can't tell how much of it is photography styling vs. real life

 

[Despos]

Premier Cru has just been updated with a new 2024 book.
Suggest you see the book to choose a navy. There are several weaves and finishes in navy and you won’t pick up the nuance from photos or online images.
52061 is a navy pin dot pattern. Have made that and the charcoal nailhead 52043 the most form the book.
The just less than navy, blue/grey shades are new and very nice.

Finmeresco is not a formal type of cloth.

 

[classicalthunde]

Premier Cru has just been updated with a new 2024 book.
Suggest you see the book to choose a navy. There are several weaves and finishes in navy and you won’t pick up the nuance from photos or online images.
52061 is a navy pin dot pattern. Have made that and the charcoal nailhead 52043 the most form the book.
The just less than navy, blue/grey shades are new and very nice.

Finmeresco is not a formal type of cloth.

Yea, will definitely look at the book in person before deciding just trying to narrow down some choices since I get often get decision paralysis in the moment if I don't walk in with a short list of options.

re: Finmeresco, understood...I mean 'formal-ish' as in appropriate for a wedding/funeral/interviews/fundraisers and not necessarily in a classic menswear style context

 

[jonathanS]

Premier Cru has just been updated with a new 2024 book.
Suggest you see the book to choose a navy. There are several weaves and finishes in navy and you won’t pick up the nuance from photos or online images.
52061 is a navy pin dot pattern. Have made that and the charcoal nailhead 52043 the most form the book.
The just less than navy, blue/grey shades are new and very nice.

Finmeresco is not a formal type of cloth.

How do you decide a cloth is formal? Or not? For example, a midnight navy db suit from finmeresco, I wouldn’t have an issue wearing that to anything under a black tie event. Even black tie optional, I think it would be okay.

My issue with premier cru was always, it felt light enough to be summer (weight wise), but didn’t breath; and breathed like a fall winter suit but wasn’t heavy enough. Atleast that was my impression. Having said that, I never ordered from that book for that reason, so I don’t have any personal experience.

Personally, I tend to live in fresco-type fabrics in the summer, into fall. In the winter, I tend to gravitate toward flannel and heavier weight worsted suits. I don’t like ironing my suits if I can help it

 

[camez_]

How do you decide a cloth is formal? Or not? For example, a midnight navy db suit from finmeresco, I wouldn’t have an issue wearing that to anything under a black tie event. Even black tie optional, I think it would be okay.

My issue with premier cru was always, it felt light enough to be summer (weight wise), but didn’t breath; and breathed like a fall winter suit but wasn’t heavy enough. Atleast that was my impression. Having said that, I never ordered from that book for that reason, so I don’t have any personal experience.

Personally, I tend to live in fresco-type fabrics in the summer, into fall. In the winter, I tend to gravitate toward flannel and heavier weight worsted suits. I don’t like ironing my suits if I can help it

you'd like new fine worsted by dugdale, I assume

it's a lot more breathable than other worsteds and still holds up enough

 

[Despos]

How do you decide a cloth is formal? Or not? For example, a midnight navy db suit from finmeresco, I wouldn’t have an issue wearing that to anything under a black tie event. Even black tie optional, I think it would be okay.

My issue with premier cru was always, it felt light enough to be summer (weight wise), but didn’t breath; and breathed like a fall winter suit but wasn’t heavy enough. Atleast that was my impression. Having said that, I never ordered from that book for that reason, so I don’t have any personal experience.

Personally, I tend to live in fresco-type fabrics in the summer, into fall. In the winter, I tend to gravitate toward flannel and heavier weight worsted suits. I don’t like ironing my suits if I can help it

Fresco is a plain weave and coarse, these are not the characteristics of a formal cloth. Solids in a prunelle weave or sharkskin are dressier.
my pet peave is when someone comes here and asks “what cloth should I use”. This is useless because everyone has preferences and your choices should align with your personal preferences. What you don‘t like about Premier Cru is what draws others to it. A mid weight that doesn’t wear warm and has body. My filter is how it tailors and the finished product. If I know your likes and dislikes I suggest a cloth you will like because it agrees with your taste in cloth. Don’t use it if you know it’s not the type of cloth you like.

 

[mktitsworth]

Impulse acquisition. Taylor Lodge LGB
View attachment 2268697

Was this from the link I posted above? Because, if so, I also impulse bought a length of that and the light-grey sharkskin.

Edit: Interesting. I just went and checked the selvedge on my link and it's different from yours. So I no longer think they're the same.

 

[JHWilliams]

Premier Cru has just been updated with a new 2024 book.
Suggest you see the book to choose a navy. There are several weaves and finishes in navy and you won’t pick up the nuance from photos or online images.
52061 is a navy pin dot pattern. Have made that and the charcoal nailhead 52043 the most form the book.
The just less than navy, blue/grey shades are new and very nice.

Finmeresco is not a formal type of cloth.

I strongly disagree with this. Finmeresco is definitely appropriate as a formal cloth. Both the high twists and 4 ply work beautifully for suits.

The entire concept of open weave cloth was for barristers and statesmen to be able to wear formal clothing without suffering in the heat.