Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Despos]

H&S Dakota book is now called Seasonal Classics

 

[Baked Potato]

As the cold is approaching, I'm back here to look for more overcoat fabrics!

I already have a camel-colored wool coat (from Loro Piana) that's a couple of years old, single-breasted, but it’s on the thinner side and won’t be suitable for the winter ahead. I'm looking for a similar coat but in a much heavier weight fabric, ideally around 700-800g.

I haven't found any real camel hair fabrics at that weight (and I imagine they'd be quite expensive), so I’m fine with a camel-colored wool one instead. I recall there was a link shared here to a good quality, reasonably priced British wool fabric that came in several colors, including camel. Does anyone remember what I’m referring to, or have other recommendations for a high-quality, heavier-weight wool fabric in a camel colour?

 

[CLH03]

As the cold is approaching, I'm back here to look for more overcoat fabrics!

I already have a camel-colored wool coat (from Loro Piana) that's a couple of years old, single-breasted, but it’s on the thinner side and won’t be suitable for the winter ahead. I'm looking for a similar coat but in a much heavier weight fabric, ideally around 700-800g.

I haven't found any real camel hair fabrics at that weight (and I imagine they'd be quite expensive), so I’m fine with a camel-colored wool one instead. I recall there was a link shared here to a good quality, reasonably priced British wool fabric that came in several colors, including camel. Does anyone remember what I’m referring to, or have other recommendations for a high-quality, heavier-weight wool fabric in a camel colour?

Standeven Snowdonia has 100% camel hair, around that weight. Not cheap but they make some of the best cloth on the market.

 

[Baked Potato]

Standeven Snowdonia has 100% camel hair, around that weight. Not cheap but they make some of the best cloth on the market.

I've seen that one. Quite expensive and if I remember correctly, it's just around 600g.

 

[Zerase]

One of the best vintage menswear stores in Sweden (Europe?) just posted that they will sell some vintage suiting/coating fabrics when their web store is up and running. I don't know if it will interest anyone here, but if you want some fabrics from the first half of the 20th century, you know where to go.

 

[DorianGreen]

I've seen that one. Quite expensive and if I remember correctly, it's just around 600g.

It's the Standeven Snowdonia 28020 Camel Plain 22,5oz/640gsm. It could be the picture, but the cloth seem to have a beautiful greenish undertone.

 

[hitsuji]

I've seen that one. Quite expensive and if I remember correctly, it's just around 600g.

yup that whole bunch is quite expensive goes from £130-250 pm for tailor cutlengths

 

[Baked Potato]

But I clearly remember finding a link here (I think the mill’s name started with a B?) to a British mill with wide range of overcoat fabrics that were very well priced and high quality. Can’t seem to remember what it was called…

 

[Connemara]

Has anyone used P&H’s Lonedin? There are some nice-looking cloths in that book. They are 12/13 oz.

If you’ve used it, does it have decent wrinkle resistance? Any durability issues?

 

[L.deJong]

But I clearly remember finding a link here (I think the mill’s name started with a B?) to a British mill with wide range of overcoat fabrics that were very well priced and high quality. Can’t seem to remember what it was called…

You could search this thread on 'overcoatings' to see what comes up. I cannot remember it, also check the bespoke thread sometimes it gets cross contaminated.

 

[tim_horton]

I recently saw a great B movie, *Night of the Hunter*, with Scott Glenn as a hitman. He wears two suits in light grey, one of which is a 6x1 DB. I thought they were both great. Extended shoulders, low buttoning stance, drapey. A light grey 6x1 suit is one of the planned commissions for 2025, probably in a robust weight, like the Dugdale Fearnought Silver Grey Twill.

FEA001 | Fearnought From Dugdale Bros & Co | Cloth Merchants, High Qua

Buy FEA001 from Dugdale Bros & Co | cloth merchants, high quality cloth to the finest tailors.

shop.dugdalebros.com

 

[Simon A]

As the cold is approaching, I'm back here to look for more overcoat fabrics!

I already have a camel-colored wool coat (from Loro Piana) that's a couple of years old, single-breasted, but it’s on the thinner side and won’t be suitable for the winter ahead. I'm looking for a similar coat but in a much heavier weight fabric, ideally around 700-800g.

I haven't found any real camel hair fabrics at that weight (and I imagine they'd be quite expensive), so I’m fine with a camel-colored wool one instead. I recall there was a link shared here to a good quality, reasonably priced British wool fabric that came in several colors, including camel. Does anyone remember what I’m referring to, or have other recommendations for a high-quality, heavier-weight wool fabric in a camel colour?

Military textile producer Hainsworth has a dark camel overcoating at 700 gsm, so that's 1050 g per running metre.

You could also try merchant HE Box, they hold 990g cavalry twills in various colours.

 

[Baked Potato]

Military textile producer Hainsworth has a dark camel overcoating at 700 gsm, so that's 1050 g per running metre.

You could also try merchant HE Box, they hold 990g cavalry twills in various colours.

Thanks! The first one is a bit too dark in the colour and the second is a bit too heavy. Around 700-800g would be perfect.

If anyone has any tips regarding a camel coloured wool fabric, please tell me.

 

[hitsuji]

How do heavy cavalry twill coats wear vs the other classic coatings?

Struggle to see what sort of coat suits it best

 

[kolecho]

How do heavy cavalry twill coats wear vs the other classic coatings?

Struggle to see what sort of coat suits it best

Cavalry twill is not as insulating as a traditional overcoating with surface nap so a shoulder season/short/travel coat seems best. I'm guessing that's what you are asking.