Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[stubbsj20]

Does anyone know the Caccioppoli reference numbers for the navy and white piqué cotton cloths used for the Friday polos that were sold/made by Permanent Style/Luca Avitabile?

 

[CLH03]

Dear all - i have a sports jacket being made up in a 14/15 dark brown glen check flannel (Fox CL2-28), in a Neapolitan style.
I am wondering whether to have it unlined? I hear it is more comfortable particularly when wearing indoors and can make the jacket almost feel like a cardigan. I tend to run quite warm, too.
The tailor suggests against, thinking it incongruent with an A/W jacket, yet others suggest all jackets should be made up unlined.
I am undecided. What are members' thoughts on the topic?
Many thanks.

I would avoid it for 2 reasons:

1. Tends to catch on knitwear or shirts, and doesn’t really add any breathability in my experience. A 15 oz jacket will be warm whether it is lined or not.
2. Your tailor suggested against it.

 

[kylepw]

Dear all - i have a sports jacket being made up in a 14/15 dark brown glen check flannel (Fox CL2-28), in a Neapolitan style.
I am wondering whether to have it unlined? I hear it is more comfortable particularly when wearing indoors and can make the jacket almost feel like a cardigan. I tend to run quite warm, too.
The tailor suggests against, thinking it incongruent with an A/W jacket, yet others suggest all jackets should be made up unlined.
I am undecided. What are members' thoughts on the topic?
Many thanks.

Lined.

 

[Concordia]

Great memory. Indeed, Despos made my wedding suit from Premier Cru. Didn’t regret the decision for a minute.

Can't add specifically to that discussion, but some partisans of pre-war drape tailoring aren't too thrilled with the sturdiness of this bunch. If you want wrinkle-resistance, perhaps not your top choice.

Also in that general realm, if you're aiming for more elegance, there are the Lesser 10oz (with a bit of cashmere, but none the worse for that), Harrisons Regency, and anything left in the Smiths/Harrisons Blue Riband.

 

[tim_horton]

Can't add specifically to that discussion, but some partisans of pre-war drape tailoring aren't too thrilled with the sturdiness of this bunch. If you want wrinkle-resistance, perhaps not your top choice.

Also in that general realm, if you're aiming for more elegance, there are the Lesser 10oz (with a bit of cashmere, but none the worse for that), Harrisons Regency, and anything left in the Smiths/Harrisons Blue Riband.

I love love love Blue Riband. If you can get your hands on some, grab it.

 

[Concordia]

I was able to replace a DB blazer with one from this bunch, this spring. Still at the tailor for final adjustments (which they had already promised before delivery).

Sadly, I waited just a hair too long for my preferred grey suit, but I found a similar pattern for Hitchcock to make-- just waiting for a try-on. I'm never quite sure if this 11oz weight delivers the best of everything, or the worst. But I'll have plenty of chances to decide in the next few years.

 

[tim_horton]

I've outgrown/worn out my summer navy blazer. Looking for a replacement. I'd love a wool silk blend, I like the slight sheen in the sunlight. Definitely NOT a Fresco/open weave. Can anyone recommend a bunch of wool-silk fabric? i don't know any off the top of my head. (I will also ask Hitchcock, who will be making it up, but I like to come with a plan in case he doesn't have anything I like.)

 

[jonathanS]

I've outgrown/worn out my summer navy blazer. Looking for a replacement. I'd love a wool silk blend, I like the slight sheen in the sunlight. Definitely NOT a Fresco/open weave. Can anyone recommend a bunch of wool-silk fabric? i don't know any off the top of my head. (I will also ask Hitchcock, who will be making it up, but I like to come with a plan in case he doesn't have anything I like.)

It shrunk!!

 

[Concordia]

Maison Hellard has a new collection that is cashmere/linen/silk. If it is as good as their other books, it will be very much worth a look.

 

[ericgereghty]

Here's a brown twill from that MH book. I could see it going it either way on the sheen front with a navy, but a very attractive weave

 

[jonathanS]

I've outgrown/worn out my summer navy blazer. Looking for a replacement. I'd love a wool silk blend, I like the slight sheen in the sunlight. Definitely NOT a Fresco/open weave. Can anyone recommend a bunch of wool-silk fabric? i don't know any off the top of my head. (I will also ask Hitchcock, who will be making it up, but I like to come with a plan in case he doesn't have anything I like.)

But on a serious note, I think Loro piana has some wsl blends similar to what you’re looking for.

I have mock Leno cashmere silk linen blend from Carlo barbera coming soon, but that’s not what you’re looking for.

 

[mktitsworth]

I funded the Drapers linen/silk/cotton houndstooth today. It was the forward fitting of my latest suit, so I wanted to get the next thing in line, and I took in the the houndstooth as well as the Drapers 14007 rainbow as a potential suit option. The tailor was more interested in making up the houndstooth than the rainbow, so I also ordered in a pair of trousers in deadstock super 140s worsted cashmere that he had sitting around in a mid grey, and I'm super stoked to see what they turn out as.

 

[hitsuji]

Is Lovat producing Bard still? Anywhere to view their collection?

 

[multiccy-csa]

How do i fix this 'rippling' in the shoulders of certain jackets? it really irritates me, and i find often happens...is it just a bent shoulder pad somewhere in there?

 

[multiccy-csa]

And while i'm at it, folds in the arm like these are a little irritating too. Looks like this jacket was stored flat underneath some weight at some point.
Is steam the answer here?

How do i fix this 'rippling' in the shoulders of certain jackets? it really irritates me, and i find often happens...is it just a bent shoulder pad somewhere in there?
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