Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JohnMRobie]

I wasn’t happy with Brooklinen which is why I asked. I found them, despite their marketing, really expensive.

I like linen sheets / duvets. I found Brooklinen ripped after 2 years.

On the flip side, my frette duvet cover ripped after 6-7 years of regular use.

I like the Serena & Lily ones my wife got us for actual linen. I think we got the Portifino ones and they’re a ton less expensive than our Frette ones. Have held up well.

 

[Despos]

How about the Brookline towels? Any good?
Replacing towels from Hammecher Schlemmer which were great and lasted a very long time. Bought them so long ago that they are almost double the price now

 

[jonathanS]

How about the Brookline towels? Any good?
Replacing towels from Hammecher Schlemmer which were great and lasted a very long time. Bought them so long ago that they are almost double the price now

I bought frette towels a few years back. Haven’t had any issues. But, I’m sure they’re wildly expensive these days. They were a stretch even back then.

 

[jonathanS]

Ripped? Rough sleeper?

I don’t think so?

 

[Concordia]

Saw this on Permanent Style. These linen cloths look amazing.

Heures bleues

Heures bleues is an ode to the South of France and its living light.Forty eight references of plains and checks compose an easy-to-wear and transitional collection made of pure French linen, woven in Italy.

maisonhellard.com

Savile Row is all over the suiting books. I had a teba made from one of the patterns. Softer than good Irish, more substantial than the flimsier Italians.

 

[Despos]

Softer than good Irish, more substantial than the flimsier Italians.

Sounds just right.

 

[Concordia]

Sounds just right.

Horses for courses. But there are quite a few good uses for their stuff.

 

[lordsuperb]

Horses for courses. But there are quite a few good uses for their stuff.

What type of lining / canvas do you ask for in your summer garments if ordering from an english tailor?

 

[Concordia]

What type of lining / canvas do you ask for in your summer garments if ordering from an english tailor?

I don’t get too specific about that. Whitcomb and Shaftesbury had a nearly-unconstructed model that works really well in some situations. But if it is a more conventional cut, I let them recommend a solution unless I have had a bad experience with a particular fabric.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I'm having my first bespoke sports jacket made up in a dark(ish) brown glen check flannel by Fox, CL2-28. (https://foxflannel.com/products/classic-flannel-prince-of-wales-dark-brown)
I intend to wear it mainly with tailoring (grey/charcoal flannels, calf/cordovan/suede loafers/oxfords) but also with chinos and patinated indigo jeans.
I commute to work on a push-bike and often walk briskly in town, so tend to work up a sweat when in multiple layers, particularly if anything synthetic is involved, so i quite like the idea of having it either unlined or only very partially lined. Is this sensible in this cloth?
I'd also like the cut to be Neapolitan in shape/curvature, with a straight lapel (which appears convex when folded) and open quarters, with a Roman shoulder and some light roping.
Does this sort of Italianate cut 'work' with a very British cloth such as this Fox flannel, or will it look somewhat confused?
Finally, given the checks, i asked if the front dart can be placed further back, almost behind the arm, to avoid the interference with the check pattern; Florentine-style, you might say. Is this sensible or am i creating unforeseen problems?
Photos from the first fitting below, perhaps anyone could chime in if i'm missing something?
Apols if this isn't really the right sub-forum - although my Qs are mainly based on the choice of cloth!
Many thanks, all.

 

[jonathanS]

I'm having my first bespoke sports jacket made up in a dark(ish) brown glen check flannel by Fox, CL2-28. (https://foxflannel.com/products/classic-flannel-prince-of-wales-dark-brown)
I intend to wear it mainly with tailoring (grey/charcoal flannels, calf/cordovan/suede loafers/oxfords) but also with chinos and patinated indigo jeans.
I commute to work on a push-bike and often walk briskly in town, so tend to work up a sweat when in multiple layers, particularly if anything synthetic is involved, so i quite like the idea of having it either unlined or only very partially lined. Is this sensible in this cloth?
I'd also like the cut to be Neapolitan in shape/curvature, with a straight lapel (which appears convex when folded) and open quarters, with a Roman shoulder and some light roping.
Does this sort of Italianate cut 'work' with a very British cloth such as this Fox flannel, or will it look somewhat confused?
Finally, given the checks, i asked if the front dart can be placed further back, almost behind the arm, to avoid the interference with the check pattern; Florentine-style, you might say. Is this sensible or am i creating unforeseen problems?
Photos from the first fitting below, perhaps anyone could chime in if i'm missing something?
Apols if this isn't really the right sub-forum - although my Qs are mainly based on the choice of cloth!
Many thanks, all.

View attachment 2245677

This is a disaster waiting to happen. Start with the tailors house style first. Then you can ask for slight adjustments. But, preferably, find a tailor who makes what you’re looking for

 

[JohnMRobie]

I'm having my first bespoke sports jacket made up in a dark(ish) brown glen check flannel by Fox, CL2-28. (https://foxflannel.com/products/classic-flannel-prince-of-wales-dark-brown)
I intend to wear it mainly with tailoring (grey/charcoal flannels, calf/cordovan/suede loafers/oxfords) but also with chinos and patinated indigo jeans.
I commute to work on a push-bike and often walk briskly in town, so tend to work up a sweat when in multiple layers, particularly if anything synthetic is involved, so i quite like the idea of having it either unlined or only very partially lined. Is this sensible in this cloth?
I'd also like the cut to be Neapolitan in shape/curvature, with a straight lapel (which appears convex when folded) and open quarters, with a Roman shoulder and some light roping.
Does this sort of Italianate cut 'work' with a very British cloth such as this Fox flannel, or will it look somewhat confused?
Finally, given the checks, i asked if the front dart can be placed further back, almost behind the arm, to avoid the interference with the check pattern; Florentine-style, you might say. Is this sensible or am i creating unforeseen problems?
Photos from the first fitting below, perhaps anyone could chime in if i'm missing something?
Apols if this isn't really the right sub-forum - although my Qs are mainly based on the choice of cloth!
Many thanks, all.

View attachment 2245677

English cloth works great with soft Neapolitan tailoring.

But do whatever the tailor suggests and don’t tell him what to do, how to make it or where to move darts.

Like @jonathanS mentioned trying to ask for all these tweaks, merging a bunch of different traditions and deviating from whatever it is this tailors house style is, especially on a first commission, is absolutely a disaster waiting to happen.

 

[lordsuperb]

I don’t get too specific about that. Whitcomb and Shaftesbury had a nearly-unconstructed model that works really well in some situations. But if it is a more conventional cut, I let them recommend a solution unless I have had a bad experience with a particular fabric.

Air Jacket?

Permanent Style

My case for the lightweight English jacket

www.permanentstyle.com

 

[multiccy-csa]

Like @jonathanS mentioned trying to ask for all these tweaks, merging a bunch of different traditions and deviating from whatever it is this tailors house style is, especially on a first commission, is absolutely a disaster waiting to happen.

Thank you both; they're quite strong views! I thought the only real 'tweak' was the dart position, but i take your point(s) well.
Regarding lining, does this weight flannel (15/16oz) lend itself to be unlined, if cut close to my frame? Or you think i should line it, given it's what the tailor (who's house style is Poole-esque English structured) would ordinarily do?

 

[kylepw]

Thank you both; they're quite strong views! I thought the only real 'tweak' was the dart position, but i take your point(s) well.
Regarding lining, does this weight flannel (15/16oz) lend itself to be unlined, if cut close to my frame? Or you think i should line it, given it's what the tailor (who's house style is Poole-esque English structured) would ordinarily do?

Go with tailor’s style always. Or find a new tailor.