Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ericgereghty]

Oh man, a Texan fell for the Brits' story on what a summer cloth is.

Next up are 14 oz linen for summer?

You thinking of the Solar for fall and spring?

I always chuckle when I wear my Solbiati (is it the Art Du Sol? Lin?) in warmer weather. I love it, and have no regrets having them around, but they are in no way meant for the dead of summer. Just the idea of putzing about in a DC or Manhattan, or, god forbid, the dirty south, in a suit of that weight makes me sweaty

 

[mktitsworth]

Oh man, a Texan fell for the Brits' story on what a summer cloth is.

Next up are 14 oz linen for summer?

You thinking of the Solar for fall and spring?

I've wanted a twill solaro suit ever since Despos gave me the idea about a decade ago. I have thought it through very carefully and I'm okay with the weight. I know that there is solaro available in lighter weights (Rota has a nice one in their summer collection that I had some pants made up in this year) but this is the original, and I am a sucker for being a snob.

As a Texan living in Houston..
"I need something for the cold winter months. Preferably around 9 oz or less that's really breathable. Make the jacket unlined too."

This was why I went with the Fox air, and that Navy Silk/Cashmere/Linen I just took possession of from Piacenza's Alashan Breeze book wears beautifully and is not too hot to wear right now.

 

[ericgereghty]

I've wanted a twill solaro suit ever since Despos gave me the idea about a decade ago. I have thought it through very carefully and I'm okay with the weight. I know that there is solaro available in lighter weights (Rota has a nice one in their summer collection that I had some pants made up in this year) but this is the original, and I am a sucker for being a snob.


This was why I went with the Fox air, and that Navy Silk/Cashmere/Linen I just took possession of from Piacenza's Alashan Breeze book wears beautifully and is not too hot to wear right now.

I don't think there's anything wrong with a lack of practicality/(consistent) utility. You want it. Get it. Enjoy it.

Solaro looks awesome. Sure, probably don't wear it in July, but I'm sure you can tolerate it enough to suffer through a warm-ish winter/early spring day...and I'm sure it will be very well received.

And, again, if you enjoy it...that's really all that matters

 

[tim_horton]

In the northeast USA, Solaro should be good for nine months out of the year. Maybe ten, depending on the weather in June. The definition of a three season suit.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Yes, wool. Completely agree on the cost. It's cheaper to do MTM or even bespoke.

Here's a list of wool cloth via @Sreezy36 (thank you).

heavy Wool:
1. https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/8422200-classic-woollen-flannel-white-solid
2. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/invincible/product/inv022dug14529/colour/cream_twill/page/271/
3. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/fearno...14425/colour/buttermilk_cream_twill/page/269/

light wool:
1. https://shop.dugdalebros.com/royal-...am-gabardine/colour/cream_gabardine/page/264/
2. https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18019/
3. https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/18049/

I have a suit in chocolate brown in the Dugdale Invincible and I love it. It looks and feels amazing. I might go with the Invincible cream twill, though it is not gabardine. It drapes beautifully.

What did you go with in the end?
I looked at Dugdale Invincible today and it was lovely, but is it a cavalry twill, or something else? It's also just a little too pale/ivory rather than a rich cream.

i'm also nervous it won't look quite as smart/sharp as a gabardine, (even though they're lighter cloths and more suited to summer):

 

[ppk]

What did you go with in the end?
I looked at Dugdale Invincible today and it was lovely, but is it a cavalry twill, or something else? It's also just a little too pale/ivory rather than a rich cream.

View attachment 2244103

i'm also nervous it won't look quite as smart/sharp as a gabardine, (even though they're lighter cloths and more suited to summer):

View attachment 2244105

I went with the Invincible. I believe it is a cavalry twill, and it's the color that I wanted (ivory). The issue with the cream is that it's a bit too warm and I have trouble matching it.

As I said in the previous post, I have a chocolate brown DB suit in the Invincible and it drapes beautifully. That was another reason I went with it.

 

[ericgereghty]

gdale Invincible today and it was lovely, but is it a cavalry twill, or something else? It's also just a little too pale/ivory rather than a rich cream.

Gimme

I went with the Invincible. I believe it is a cavalry twill, and it's the color that I wanted (ivory). The issue with the cream is that it's a bit too warm and I have trouble matching it.

As I said in the previous post, I have a chocolate brown DB suit in the Invincible and it drapes beautifully. That was another reason I went with it.

Gimme. Looks great

 

[ppk]

Gimme

Gimme. Looks great

I am going through Luxire. They have a relationship with Dugdale.

I'm doing an MTM order. My DB suit was also MTM.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Minnis and Drapers offer both wool gabardine. I prefer the colours of the Drapers but the Minnis feel more substantial.

Could you please post a link of these ?

Drapers i see here:

Gabardine fabrics

Discover all the Gabardine fabrics from our collection. Buy now on Drapers Italy.

drapersitaly.it

Huddersfield (Minnis?) here:

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds - Pieces in Super Gabardine Collection

Classic 12oz 100% wool Heritage Gabardine for suits and trousers. This collection features a comprehensive range of colours taken directly from our original 1970s version discovered in our archives.

www.hfwltd.com

...but neither have a 'warm' cream that i'm looking for. (although they do have purple..)

Struggling to find what i want anywhere really. The closest i've found is a barathea and a twill by Fox

WT35 : Worsted Classics Ecru Barathea

Introducing worsted classics for classic occasions. With the cutters’ favourite ‘London Shrunk’ finish; it’s the wardrobe staple woven for business, travel, and leisure including evening and wedding wear. This bunch contains twills, hopsacks and baratheas, along with several shades of plain...

foxflannel.com

WT22 : Worsted Classics Ecru Twill

Introducing worsted classics for classic occasions. With the cutters’ favourite ‘London Shrunk’ finish; it’s the wardrobe staple woven for business, travel, and leisure including evening and wedding wear. This bunch contains twills, hopsacks and baratheas, along with several shades of plain...

foxflannel.com

How different will these look and feel to a gabardine? I guess they'll drape well (the twill holding the crease better) but won't look quite as formal or sharp.

 

[epsilon22]

Could you please post a link of these ?

Drapers i see here:

Gabardine fabrics

Discover all the Gabardine fabrics from our collection. Buy now on Drapers Italy.

drapersitaly.it

Huddersfield (Minnis?) here:

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds - Pieces in Super Gabardine Collection

Classic 12oz 100% wool Heritage Gabardine for suits and trousers. This collection features a comprehensive range of colours taken directly from our original 1970s version discovered in our archives.

www.hfwltd.com

...but neither have a 'warm' cream that i'm looking for. (although they do have purple..)

Struggling to find what i want anywhere really. The closest i've found is a barathea and a twill by Fox

WT35 : Worsted Classics Ecru Barathea

Introducing worsted classics for classic occasions. With the cutters’ favourite ‘London Shrunk’ finish; it’s the wardrobe staple woven for business, travel, and leisure including evening and wedding wear. This bunch contains twills, hopsacks and baratheas, along with several shades of plain...

foxflannel.com

WT22 : Worsted Classics Ecru Twill

Introducing worsted classics for classic occasions. With the cutters’ favourite ‘London Shrunk’ finish; it’s the wardrobe staple woven for business, travel, and leisure including evening and wedding wear. This bunch contains twills, hopsacks and baratheas, along with several shades of plain...

foxflannel.com

How different will these look and feel to a gabardine? I guess they'll drape well (the twill holding the crease better) but won't look quite as formal or sharp.

I've had that fox ecru twill bookmarked for a possible order in the future. Looks really nice.

I think it's the fabric use for this pair sold at Merchant Fox, in case you want more pics for reference: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/products/fox-ecru-twill-trousers

 

[The Chai]

I've always wanted to rock up to KFC looking like the colonel!

 

[Concordia]

I've wanted a twill solaro suit ever since Despos gave me the idea about a decade ago. I have thought it through very carefully and I'm okay with the weight. I know that there is solaro available in lighter weights (Rota has a nice one in their summer collection that I had some pants made up in this year) but this is the original, and I am a sucker for being a snob.

I am trying to figure out how different the original patterns are from each other in color. Depending on the sample, some look more green or red than others. I'm less of a fan of that green, but the plain twill leans more to a tan sort of fawn. I think.

 

[mktitsworth]

I am trying to figure out how different the original patterns are from each other in color. Depending on the sample, some look more green or red than others. I'm less of a fan of that green, but the plain twill leans more to a tan sort of fawn. I think.

The thing about Solaro that I love is that it's all about the angle you're looking at it from. In person, the three original solaros (twill and the two herringbones) are the same color yarns being used, they're just woven differently. That weave is what causes the change in the effects. I find that the herringbones break things up more and you don't have large swaths of gradient across a piece, but that's exactly what I want and that's why I went with the twill over the herringbones.

 

[Concordia]

My own copy is the Venetian/barathea weave, and I find it just a bit too exotic. The plain twill has hints of depth but doesn't put the underlying shades in your face. The herringbones seem, often, to show more red-- which is not a bad thing.

 

[mktitsworth]

My own copy is the Venetian/barathea weave, and I find it just a bit too exotic. The plain twill has hints of depth but doesn't put the underlying shades in your face. The herringbones seem, often, to show more red-- which is not a bad thing.

I wonder if anyone has ever had a solaro suit made up, but with the back side of the cloth out. That seems like something worth seeing.