Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ZRH1]

for formalwear I recommend Schofield.

 

[CLH03]

Is that the 580g? Or the slightly lighter 430g or so?

This is 15023, 14 oz. Very dense, but absolutely wearable as long as it’s like <65. Was wearing it yesterday all day and was super comfortable in mid 60s weather.

 

[The Chai]

Bateman ogden mohair barathea for me

 

[TweedyProf]

Does anyone have experience with performance of the Fox worsted flannels in 9/10oz weight in winter cold and wind? I'd prefer 14/15oz, but that's a bit pricier. For example:

WF2-45 : Worsted Flannel Dark Fawn Plain Mélange

Our Worsted Flannel qualities are presented in three different weights, woven with yarns spun from long combed wool fibres, which produce smooth flannels. This worsted plain flannel, is offered as part of the lighter weight fabrics within the Fox Worsted Flannel collection. A range of flannels...

foxflannel.com

 

[JimmyHoffa]

3 piece ivory mohair from the standeven carnival book for extra lush!
View attachment 2242657

What a coincidence you posted this as I was asking about the Carnival bunch. A lot less sheen than I would have thought which is good. Lush is the word I would use too. I have read that mohair is suppose to be quite crease resistant but looks like the bottom of your jacket/sleeves have noticeable crease lines. Is this from something in particular or just the nature of a high mohair blend?

Is that the 580g? Or the slightly lighter 430g or so?

I say go Standeven. The extra bit of weight helps. It certainly isn't going to feel heavy at that weight, but will feel decidedly more sturdy than 230g/. Any rigs I have in the 250/lower range tend to feel a tad flimsy.

I think you might be right - 230 can feel fine and perhaps 'paper like'.

for formalwear I recommend Schofield.

Thanks will take a look - you had anything made up?

Bateman ogden mohair barathea for me

From experience? Even over the Standeven you have shown above?

 

[WhereNext]

3 piece ivory mohair from the standeven carnival book for extra lush!
View attachment 2242655 View attachment 2242657

I’ll echo the other poster: any feedback on how this wears? There is a great dark green in the Carnival book that I was thinking I’d get for a quarter/half lined 2 piece suit for warmer days. Any insights would be appreciated!

 

[tim_horton]

I am looking to get a classic black tuxedo suit made up with satin peak lapels single button etc. (my first one). Without knowing much about weave, I have been advised to go for something light weight, and to not be afraid of sheen. I will be dancing and in a warm client - this started the conversation of going towards Mohair (hence, do not be afraid of sheen). The prevailing wisdom given to me was that Barathea is textured and nice and popular at the moment, but it is heavy and not practical in warm environments/moving (sitting in Florence in summer in a 400g cloth won't be nice), and hence, yes you get drape but not comfort.

I got pointed towards Standeven 270g 9.5oz 60% kid Mohair/ 40% Wool mix from Carnival:

Kid Mohair/Luxury Wool Suiting Cloth - Made in England 16000

Stock supported,cut lengths supplied for tailoring. Standeven 1885 the tailor's mill, weave kid mohair/luxury wool cloth for business suits in British Mill

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

I was also looking at potentially either of the two Mohair blends from Drapers The Bingley:
230gm 16% mohair / 84% wool plain weave: https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/20166/
Or
230gm Barathea 29% mohair / 71% wool: https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/20178/

Has anyone had any experience with either/suggestions? Very grateful in advance.

I can't comment on any of these fabrics but have never heard anything negative about Standeven.

I personally would not go lighter than 9.5 oz. I had a suit made of H&S mohair blend which weighed 8 oz. and it wore and looked flimsy.

 

[camez_]

.

 

[The Chai]

Re my ivory mohair - unpressed. I will collect it on Wednesday after the tailor has pressed it but I must say this one feels like a worsted. I have had stuff made from the Carnival bunch before which felt more slick in handle but little sheen. This has little sheen but feels more like wool than mohair.

Re barathea choice - from experience. I like the bateman ogden mohair barathea. That said my current two default dinner jackets are a mohair cashmere midnight 3 piece from a deadstock taylor and lodge and a cream shawl DB from a crepe (forgot where the cloth is from...I believe it was J Clissold) and yes I prefer the Bateman Ogden over the Carnival as it is 340 grams...kinda a sweet spot but I suppose it really is a coin toss. That said I have pretty much had every mohair from every mill made up haha

 

[JimmyHoffa]

I can't comment on any of these fabrics but have never heard anything negative about Standeven.

I personally would not go lighter than 9.5 oz. I had a suit made of H&S mohair blend which weighed 8 oz. and it wore and looked flimsy.

Thank you Tim - in that case I might opt for more weight to avoid this. I just hope that the added weight does not turn my into a walking sauna!

Re my ivory mohair - unpressed. I will collect it on Wednesday after the tailor has pressed it but I must say this one feels like a worsted. I have had stuff made from the Carnival bunch before which felt more slick in handle but little sheen. This has little sheen but feels more like wool than mohair.

Re barathea choice - from experience. I like the bateman ogden mohair barathea. That said my current two default dinner jackets are a mohair cashmere midnight 3 piece from a deadstock taylor and lodge and a cream shawl DB from a crepe (forgot where the cloth is from...I believe it was J Clissold) and yes I prefer the Bateman Ogden over the Carnival as it is 340 grams...kinda a sweet spot but I suppose it really is a coin toss. That said I have pretty much had every mohair from every mill made up haha

Chai - as in Carnival does indeed crease similar to say linen or cotton?

Any particular bunch/swatch from Bateman you'd suggest for black - thank you for your help! Have you had VBC Mohair made up?

 

[epsilon22]

Thinking of finally getting a sport coat made for the winter. I was initially planning to get this Fox SP7

After browsing the fabric swatches, I think the grey above is a bit too dark, and now I'm leaning towards this Fox SP9 instead. The blue is more vibrant, but the overall fabric still resolves as grey from a distance, so it's probably not too loud. Would like to hear your opinions on either of these fabrics, or suggestions for something similar (small checks in grey/blue tones).

Since I got a lot of comments and advice about these fabrics, here's the finished (almost, minus sleeve buttons) jacket.

I think the fabric looks nice, it is definitely a bit heavy, so I'll probably wait a month or so before wearing it out.

 

[mktitsworth]

Some stuff that is on the way that I got a preview of and am now going to patiently wait until it arrives at my home.

 

[circumspice]

Oh man, a Texan fell for the Brits' story on what a summer cloth is.

Next up are 14 oz linen for summer?

You thinking of the Solar for fall and spring?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Some stuff that is on the way that I got a preview of and am now going to patiently wait until it arrives at my home.

View attachment 2243905
View attachment 2243907

Beautiful choices, complimenti.

 

[Texasmade]

Oh man, a Texan fell for the Brits' story on what a summer cloth is.

Next up are 14 oz linen for summer?

You thinking of the Solar for fall and spring?

As a Texan living in Houston..
"I need something for the cold winter months. Preferably around 9 oz or less that's really breathable. Make the jacket unlined too."