Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[aristoi bcn]

Harrisons.

 

[camez_]

fox comes to mind

 

[CLH03]

Finally received my Heritage Twist. Absolutely loving it so far. Will absolutely be launching another suit in blue from this bunch.

 

[camez_]

it's one of the best suiting bunches out there currently

 

[jonathanS]

Finally received my Heritage Twist. Absolutely loving it so far. Will absolutely be launching another suit in blue from this bunch. View attachment 2242085

Heritage twist is good stuff. Even one of my buddies who knows nothing about fabric or bespoke tailoring started feeling the fabric and was like “this stuff is really nice!” I had the book on my coffee table. He now wants a suit in it haha.

 

[ppk]

it's one of the best suiting bunches out there currently

I ordered an MTO from Husbands Paris with this cloth in the Heritage Twist collection. Excited for the delivery.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Could anyone help me locate this particular gun club (tweed?) cloth that Drake's used for one of their jackets in their seminal A/W16 lookbook, attached?
Fox have something similar (SP17), but doesn't have quite the same beautiful base of dark browns interspersed with green/purple/orange decos.
Does anyone have any ideas, or perhaps the mill that supplied Drake's during that era?
Thank you vm indeed.

 

[DorianGreen]

Could anyone help me locate this particular gun club (tweed?) cloth that Drake's used for one of their jackets in their seminal A/W16 lookbook, attached?
Fox have something similar (SP17), but doesn't have quite the same beautiful base of dark browns interspersed with green/purple/orange decos.
Does anyone have any ideas, or perhaps the mill that supplied Drake's during that era?
Thank you vm indeed.

View attachment 2242405
View attachment 2242407

Looks like a very nice cloth.

 

[tuna roll]

Could anyone help me locate this particular gun club (tweed?) cloth that Drake's used for one of their jackets in their seminal A/W16 lookbook, attached?
Fox have something similar (SP17), but doesn't have quite the same beautiful base of dark browns interspersed with green/purple/orange decos.
Does anyone have any ideas, or perhaps the mill that supplied Drake's during that era?
Thank you vm indeed.

View attachment 2242405
View attachment 2242407

Beautiful. Maybe someone from Drake's could help you out?

 

[sake99]

Heritage twist is good stuff. Even one of my buddies who knows nothing about fabric or bespoke tailoring started feeling the fabric and was like “this stuff is really nice!” I had the book on my coffee table. He now wants a suit in it haha.

How is the handfeel of Heritage Twist? Also would I be right in assuming the 14oz would be more of a FW cloth?

 

[jonathanS]

How is the handfeel of Heritage Twist? Also would I be right in assuming the 14oz would be more of a FW cloth?

Yes. Fall winter. It’s a dense fabric. Not really soft, but dense. Like an old school fabric. 14oz is on the heavier side.

 

[The Chai]

3 piece ivory mohair from the standeven carnival book for extra lush!

 

[Concordia]

Could anyone help me locate this particular gun club (tweed?) cloth that Drake's used for one of their jackets in their seminal A/W16 lookbook, attached?
Fox have something similar (SP17), but doesn't have quite the same beautiful base of dark browns interspersed with green/purple/orange decos.
Does anyone have any ideas, or perhaps the mill that supplied Drake's during that era?
Thank you vm indeed.

View attachment 2242405
View attachment 2242407

Looks like an angora blend or maybe a Shetland. Not too heavy or stiff.
W Bill books have a few in that general family.

 

[JimmyHoffa]

I am looking to get a classic black tuxedo suit made up with satin peak lapels single button etc. (my first one). Without knowing much about weave, I have been advised to go for something light weight, and to not be afraid of sheen. I will be dancing and in a warm client - this started the conversation of going towards Mohair (hence, do not be afraid of sheen). The prevailing wisdom given to me was that Barathea is textured and nice and popular at the moment, but it is heavy and not practical in warm environments/moving (sitting in Florence in summer in a 400g cloth won't be nice), and hence, yes you get drape but not comfort.

I got pointed towards Standeven 270g 9.5oz 60% kid Mohair/ 40% Wool mix from Carnival:

Kid Mohair/Luxury Wool Suiting Cloth - Made in England 16000

Stock supported,cut lengths supplied for tailoring. Standeven 1885 the tailor's mill, weave kid mohair/luxury wool cloth for business suits in British Mill

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

I was also looking at potentially either of the two Mohair blends from Drapers The Bingley:
230gm 16% mohair / 84% wool plain weave: https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/20166/
Or
230gm Barathea 29% mohair / 71% wool: https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/20178/

Has anyone had any experience with either/suggestions? Very grateful in advance.

 

[ericgereghty]

Finally received my Heritage Twist. Absolutely loving it so far. Will absolutely be launching another suit in blue from this bunch. View attachment 2242085

Is that the 580g? Or the slightly lighter 430g or so?

I am looking to get a classic black tuxedo suit made up with satin peak lapels single button etc. (my first one). Without knowing much about weave, I have been advised to go for something light weight, and to not be afraid of sheen. I will be dancing and in a warm client - this started the conversation of going towards Mohair (hence, do not be afraid of sheen). The prevailing wisdom given to me was that Barathea is textured and nice and popular at the moment, but it is heavy and not practical in warm environments/moving (sitting in Florence in summer in a 400g cloth won't be nice), and hence, yes you get drape but not comfort.

I got pointed towards Standeven 270g 9.5oz 60% kid Mohair/ 40% Wool mix from Carnival:

Kid Mohair/Luxury Wool Suiting Cloth - Made in England 16000

Stock supported,cut lengths supplied for tailoring. Standeven 1885 the tailor's mill, weave kid mohair/luxury wool cloth for business suits in British Mill

www.standevenfabrics.co.uk

I was also looking at potentially either of the two Mohair blends from Drapers The Bingley:
230gm 16% mohair / 84% wool plain weave: https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/20166/
Or
230gm Barathea 29% mohair / 71% wool: https://drapersitaly.it/gb-en/collection/20178/

Has anyone had any experience with either/suggestions? Very grateful in advance.

I say go Standeven. The extra bit of weight helps. It certainly isn't going to feel heavy at that weight, but will feel decidedly more sturdy than 230g/. Any rigs I have in the 250/lower range tend to feel a tad flimsy.