Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ppk]

Consider barathea instead. It will drape beautifully and be more tolerant of commercial pressing.

Thanks. Any specific suggestions of fabrics? I'm not that familiar with it.

 

[Concordia]

Thanks. Any specific suggestions of fabrics? I'm not that familiar with it.

It is the standard choice in black for dinner jackets. But there are a few creams examples in Dugdale formal wear. Also Fox Worsted Classic.

 

[circumspice]

Anybody got any good examples of gun clubs they'd like to share? I'm finishing up my latest commision and I've always wanted a gun club jacket.

You still in Texas? What weight fabric are you thinking? Lovat's stuff might be too heavy for 9+ months of the year down there.

View attachment 892377

Where is the fun in a navy blazer? The first two are mine, awaiting the first fitting on last Friday. Doing just one fitting, as these are commissions 2A and 2B with BNTailor.

Truth be told, I am actually in the market for a FW navy sportcoat, but it is seemingly easier for me to play iGent with bolder fabrics than staples - it is hard to view navies online and get worked up enough to try to procure fabric samples

That is a ~12 oz Schofield and Smith fabric from 8ish years ago.

 

[mktitsworth]

Yeah, I'm in central Texas these days. I love Lovat, but their stuff is way too heavy. The suit I am finishing is in This fabric. It's 180 gm/m. It's so light and flowy that I'm having it made up as unconstructed as possible.

That's the kind of weight range I'm looking at though. I'm willing to go up to something like 350g/12oz ish but that's going to get really hot and be unwearable for significant portions of the year.

 

[hitsuji]

Old tonik picked up - gray/black tone

 

[aristoi bcn]

Old tonik picked up - gray/black tone
View attachment 2228677

Superb stuff in a lovely shade and design. Give it to a good tailor, please.

 

[Sfba]

Anybody have an opinion comparing the Drapers Superbio (370g) to Dugdale Royal Classic Vantage (340g) in terms of drape and heat retention?

I have charcoal SB in old Five Stars. Drapes like a dream, but I find myself getting really hot in 70+ weather or when the office AC is down. I’m wondering if the RCV’s lower weight will allow me to push to 80 without turning into a sauna while retaining Superbio’s drape. I have swatches of both and the handle seems similar to me, but I’m no aficionado.

 

[Sfba]

Thanks. Any specific suggestions of fabrics? I'm not that familiar with it.

If you’re looking for odd trousers in barathea, I would second the Dugdale Formal book. Great sturdy stuff. Would avoid the mohair blends in that book since they’re for formalwear, but I’m assuming you know that.

 

[ppk]

If you’re looking for odd trousers in barathea, I would second the Dugdale Formal book. Great sturdy stuff. Would avoid the mohair blends in that book since they’re for formalwear, but I’m assuming you know that.

Perfect. Thank you.

 

[brax]

Is there a store in Milan like Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers in Paris?

know of any shops to find cloth?

Asking for a friend who is in Milan this week.

Probably too late in a number of ways but F Caraceni is (was) selling all of its vintage stock as it is (was) ceasing operations.

 

[ZRH1]

Old tonik picked up - gray/black tone
View attachment 2228677

great choice. Do you mind sharing what else it says after Tonik on the yellow selvedge?

 

[ppk]

If you’re looking for odd trousers in barathea, I would second the Dugdale Formal book. Great sturdy stuff. Would avoid the mohair blends in that book since they’re for formalwear, but I’m assuming you know that.

Here's a cream barathea from that book.

https://dds-res.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/dds/images/l/dug00562_1.jpg

 

[L.deJong]

Anybody have an opinion comparing the Drapers Superbio (370g) to Dugdale Royal Classic Vantage (340g) in terms of drape and heat retention?

I have charcoal SB in old Five Stars. Drapes like a dream, but I find myself getting really hot in 70+ weather or when the office AC is down. I’m wondering if the RCV’s lower weight will allow me to push to 80 without turning into a sauna while retaining Superbio’s drape. I have swatches of both and the handle seems similar to me, but I’m no aficionado.

I have the Dugdale rcv and that is a good suiting cloth for early autumn to early spring (for me). In winter I wear an overcoat and that works beautifully.
I think it's as close to a '3 season cloth' as you can get for my climate.

I live in Europe (The Netherlands) so compare it to your own climate.

 

[camez_]

Superb stuff in a lovely shade and design. Give it to a good tailor, please.

+ don't order the jacket too short, like last time

 

[hitsuji]

great choice. Do you mind sharing what else it says after Tonik on the yellow selvedge?

the entire selvedge says “Dormeuil # Tonik # Made in England” since it was woven by William Halstead